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You got smoke that means ya got fuel!The valve set sounds suspect!With the lids off check for overlap (valves rocking) on # no six then set the valves on one and go thru the firng order ,what your doing is confirming compression on one with this only use the pointer on the flywheel for V/S mated cylinders below If one is on compression six will be overlaping If 5 is on compression 2 will be over laping! 1 5 3 6 2 4

you might want to talk to thunderdog on the forum here he did some stuff to his it pulls OK now ! Drop him a PM.

I got to beleive you will float valves with stock heads at 4 grand! Broken lifters were a problem with these on over speed 2600 maybe. but .at 4000 you'll have push rods thru valve covers in my opinion

No I think you may not be set right check to make sure you are on the right cyl when setting 8 and 2 are on the same mark. 2 should be on overlap when you set 8

We would normally quote 50 hours on the out frame and 10 too 16 RR

32 litre or quarts total 28 in the pan. If it has 3 oil filters (Deep pan ) it takes 48 in the pan 53 including filters The endless oil change your doing a n oil change every second day!

You likly don't have to worry on the injector cup as it is the bottom of the head (cast) the injector is mounted in in a sheath pressed into the head.Yup ya did good I'll be puttin this one in my memory bank as I never would have thought a chirp would develop by an injector I have seen one stuck so bad the injector insert came up with the injector and had to use a porta power to pull it and of coase it was No 6 the hardest one to get to! Your Hired! even thou you are a PETE guy! We won't hold that against ya!

Wow! Good news! that would have thrown anybody off track, good thing you stuck to your guns and pulled the injectors ! good find Thanx for posting your fix! Lot Better than doin a Cam job!

Kool! You set the valves with the pointer located on the right front of the engine aimed at the damper the damper, The set is done in firing order 1548 6372 You need to set a 8 and 7 turn the engine to 8/2 on the damper if the valves are tight and are in motion as you turn the engine you need to turn the engine 360 same for seven .once you have set 8, seven comes up on the next turn!by pass 6 and 3

Bro your wasting time doing a valve set Yes Do the injector orings then pull the pan and look at the cam these Engines are time tested unlike the volvo mp engine they do certain things make certain noises this is a classic lifter chirp by what you discribe!50 pounds injectors 20 pounds or so on the lids 45 to 55 0n the jakes But don't bother putting any of it on till you check the cam! I only takes a half hour to pull the pan down worth the time as far as Im concerned!

Bro you need to address the churp sound before going after the valve set pull the pan and check the cam!That churp is likly a lifter or cam failing they don't always fail on an injection lobe!Injector orings can leak yes that is likly your leak!

By DOT limits here your allowed 3/16 at the bottom of the wheel tipping it with a bar! I would be more inclined to say 1/8 to be the maximum! Bare in mind to much wear can create unwanted tire wear!

Pretty much any range type trans you want to PRE SELECT the range the split is another story the split needs a low to no torque situation to work ,

The engine must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. (NOPE its was a fairly comon thing ) Just happens! and usually the same way every time shut the engine off everything is fine ,Start the engine up Bang Bang Bang! anyway .As Glenn pointed out ,you do have 3 more heads to possibly do, But if you need a good runner we have a few! We just tore down a v8 got lots of parts Might even scare up a piston ,Phone Gary At Nanaimo Mack ( Vancouver Island) 1 250 758 0185 phone tommoro Gary is not here Fridays! He'll hook ya up ! Tell em Fred sent ya!

Woo hoo got the wheels turnin now !What diffrence can actualy go some where with out getting stuck now!

Usually this dosent bend the rod !But a good check, Also Post a picture of the liner when ya get time!Don't pull it yet! If its just a farm truck to haul from the feild to the barn you might want to just fuss up the liner with a hone and slam a used piston and head on.

That engine ran awhile like that !!!! Be sure to look at the turbo and back blow the exhast tube.The turbo wheel likly has hunks out of it as well.B sure to take the engine serial #no with you when buying orings for the liners three up dates happened a white dot oring was the most common The parts guys Should be able to direct you on that BUT Some arent to bright, If you buy a liner kit It usually comes with the TSB!If your going used post the ser #no here and we will be able to dig up the info.Serial no is stamped RH front of the block near the pan.If it has ac its under the ac bracket!

Found it ! Just below the for and aft sols lh on the trans FYI!

Just a Note !Check the clutch brake squeaze first if its not right correct it with the out side adjustment!Then proceed with the half inch bearing clearance/1 1/2 free play!This way you do the job once !

You leave the intake in place. Remove the air plumbing from the turbo inlet get it out of your way,Remove the cross over pipe that joins the to inlet manifolds together, remove the 6 intake bolts and the exhast manifold bolts and remove the rear section of the exhast from the head you are working on only . remove or pull back the two water rail bolts from the back head(under the intake) remove the valve cover and rocker gear ,woop the head bolts out and the head will pop off!Less than 2 hours you'll have it off.Once there you'll likly find bits and peices inbeded in the pistion thats valve seat, these peices can travel into the turbo so inspect the exhast wheel and stuff closely and if the wheel looks OK back blow the exhast tube on that side!You got the pan off so remove the piston if the liner is not damaged buy or get a used pistion inspect the wrist bushing fo pits or cracking if ok reuse find a good runner head and your back in business!

You likly have a droped valve seat!This usually happens when the engine is shut down ,next time the engine is started it begins to knock! more of a hammering sound! Pull the head off and look!you will likly need to replace the piston, liner Maybe , and head . and turbo if ths is what you find!

Hey guys I'm looking to fine out where the above mentioned solnoid is on the tractor. I just went thru a feasco with not having reverse ,found that a bunch of wires had worn thru on the suction line to the trans ,got thous all repaired but ,still got no 4x4 so I want to check the solnoid and see if it is getting juice . By the way the no reverse thing turned out to be the back up alarm shorted and not any of the broken and rubbed thru wires.So if anyone has any ideas lemeno! Thanx Fred

Have you changed any headlights lately??? be sure you have the right headlight bulb installed, there are 2 diffrent numbers 9007 I beleive is the correct one for your truck! But check with the dealer for the proper number!If you put the wrong light in one side it will cause this.

Hello Todd !I have not messed with turbos to experiment with more boost no answer for that one more boost will gain you nothing with out the fuel to go with it . The Timing could be altered to 22 degrees even as high as 24 degrees BUT I don't know what effect on performance or Life of engine to expect The timing changed as years moved on as emmisions changed. Hint ,On electronicly controled E7 the timing can vary between 12 and 24 degrees So I am making these statments as a guess that the fixed 18, degree timing on yours is a compramize number on a mechanical engine, as for the pyro temp usually taken at the turbo outlet on theses engines 1175 to 1200 max and wouldn't be pushing it past 800 - 1000 on pulls for extended periods! Just my to pennys worth.

Yup center punch it out and cut a slot in it for a screw driver.