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Ya would be nice however we got people that write service orders like that an it does nothing but piss me off. i don’t read minds I am however sometimes capable of reading what an engine is trying to say when it’s not feeling good if you give me proper info?

Any fault codes ? You need to provide detailed info if you want a decent answer to your questions! Air pressure to fuel system don't tell us much! history ? When it started! ? bla bla Bla!

Please do!

You can by a lot of brake shoes with the money your going to spend on patching this And it will be a patch these dint work that well even with all the line bearing and other patch kits! Just sayin!

One would think If it were rings you would have oil consumption issues and excessive blowby! I as the others suspect valve guide wear!

agree with Glenn also ( how old is your air cleaner?) Don't forget the engine is in vacum when coasting pulling oil thru the turbo seals due to clogged air filter is a good possibility!

Have you changed any headlight bulbs lately? The wrong bulb will make these do weird stuff!

Next time you have it running pull the oil fill cap off while running and check for puffing at the fill tube this is an indication of failed piston or rings! however if it sounds like its huffin at the exhaust not a good sign!

No

If it was a runaway it will show up on the valve set as a real loose set as will broken lifter 1/32 of an inch or so you will likely have bent push rods on those cylinders! Upon setting the valves when slack give them a twirl if there bent it will show ! like I said proceed in order of ease! Methodically look at stuff , assume nothing ,Explore .You still could have burnt pistons broken rings you just don't know you have no history! Just an observation from previous experience!

Which should BE? Check the drain plug its quick and easy! Next hardest is the valve set Hardest CAN BE injector swap because they can be seazed! i have no Doubt in your ability Your working Blind with no history you dun good to get this far How ever Please try and advance thru the checks as stated so we can get to a resolve here I don't feel like wasting my time trying to help someone who doesnt want to listen and try shit we have offered up here There a some quite EXPERIENCED people on this site and we can get a little testy You asked for help we offer up the help use it to its potential we may be right we maybe wrong how ever its worth a try! getter done!

YOU ARE SPENDING TO Much time second guessing your self! In my humble opinion! Move on to other checks! Check the drain plug for peices check the valve adjustment Swap the injectors move on its likely not the timing! You got it running !!! As I recall it you have no history on this engine ! Your doing OK for a blind guy! Go with What you know you have smoke you know you got fuel up to the injectors swap em! You don't know if you have compression check the valve set !

Yup use the studs! I'm Not positive how ever I believe you can buy the dog bone bracket for the back now rather than the tapper much wiser than the taper ! I have seen these on the newer MRs used for pump trucks and such!

I think if the Freaken was to EPA stop and Evaluated HOW MUCH waste and pollution they have created by Forcing truck makers to create 5 year throw away trucks the cost to the environment having to recycle this crap far surpasses the emissions they are trying to prevent! But sure helps generate revenue for the truck shops! Be proud your keeping others working while going broke!

Yes Bud Do a valve adjustment on that cyl bring it up to tc( valves rockin on number one )and set the valves 16 on the intake and 24 on the exhuast or just loosen the big jam nut push and turn the lash adjuster all the way down till it wont turn with your thumb then back it out one half turn that will be close enough to ( aprox 24) to prove the point here! the proper set is 16 in 24 ex thou! There is also a possibility that you have a failed lifters in which case you will have a popping sound at the air cleaner and very loose valve set check the valve set first if you have a lot of slack on one of the valve like 1/32 of an inch STOP what your doing and check the pan plug for pieces! If the lifter has failed as you remove the drain plug it will feel like there is gravel on the threads!

As mackpaul is saying is it fueling to the injector? if so swap injector 5 to injector six if six starts firing you know you have an injector issue! however Being as you have smoke I suspect you have fuel but no compression! ( open or valve) or a stuck dyntard slave!

Bro if this engine were 180 0ut I highly would it would even try to run! If you have any action on those number six rockers your definitely on number one and it sounds like you got the timing spot on 22 or 18 doesn't matter, if its a timing issue and it didn't run clean at 22 and its supposed to be at 18 then! Are you sure you don' t have a rag or something in the intake because this is totally bisar!???? Turbo is Free? Just sounds like its not getting air to me! Just another thought! The Truck was not running when it came to you so it could be something stupid like that! Ive Seen air cleaners put in upside down before too, so more theres possibly shit to look for here maybe? Also Does it have an engine brake if the dynatard is stuck on the engine will run like shit and will smoke like hell!

No the EPA don't give a rats ass if somebody s house burns down or gets killed long as the dam thing is clean is all that maters

Stop lever run position throttle idle with the afor mentioned method check where the timing is currently set if it's at 18 advance to 22 if it's below 18 set it to 18 4 degrees should clean it up!

This here is real hard to explain How ever I will try!!!! Set it at 22 I've had this issue on a V8 ! use Glenns method ! WITH A TWIST : number one delivery valve and spring removed Delivery valve nut reinstalled ! connect a Number six fuel line to the inlet of the fuel pump inlet ! ( THE TWIST )once this is done blow into the line WITH YOUR Mouth Have someone start (with engine before TDC ) turn the engine while blowing on the tube when you feel the flow or blowing stop and you can,t blow thru( AIR STOPS COMING THRU number one injection line port ) thats time of injection! check the numbers on the damper that is what its timed for NOW! The gear hub is slotted on the front of the pump (set the engine ) on your desired degree 18 or 22 loosen the 4 pump slot bolts repeat the blow time method by turning the pump by the center nut till blowing stops (time of injection) tighten the slot bolts back the engine up to where you started Before TDC blowing again and turning it back to confirm it stop at the degree set one your happy with the set 18 or 22 re install the delivery VALVE AND SPRING put he line on number one hook the fuel supply up and light it up and see how it runs ! re install the cover once you confirm how it runs hope this helps!

Trent is Correct!

The torque limit switch would be mounted on the range cyl at the back the switch near the stick is the reverse switch!If you have a huge boost leak you would be trailing smoke all the time and if you have a pyrometer the temps would climb fast!

The dowel on the engine side is meant to go on the pumpside where the cut out is on the hub it will be in time or at least where it was when you took it off if your putting a diffrent pump on then YOU should time it! put the dowel faceing you so you can see it and put thr hub cutaway in the approximate same spot Approx 2 oclock i have found is the best location for install DO NOT pull it in with the bolts if it wont go in up to the bolt flange IT AN T IN RIGHT!

Ya it will be interesting to c how the hackers do with the newer stuff m drive and the like! Very complex and intertwined abs stability control avoidance control bla bla !

Yes MR model