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also if you have been unable to extract even a non broken stud, i mean this in the nicest way possible but i would question your ability. Admittedly my attempt a trying to remove the guide was an attempt to re use on another head My point is they are very tight to remove at the best of time ! Impossible to remove without ruining in my opinion at least the ones i have attempted! Its not something we do everyday ! And I realise in this case were not saving anything and if its weldable then ready rod and a slide hammer or hollow porta power is tryable ! Two hours 120 shop rate 240 bucks ! if it works you win if not guess its just 240 ! And How many guide pins do think are in stock Did anyone look??

We only got a few out here so far Time will tell i guess! Maybe they finally got something we can be Proud of ! Unfortunately the after treat is the weak link in most all the stuff ( EVERYBODY'S! ) LETS MAKE MACK GREAT AGAIN! Oh someone is already using that line!

It"s Almost mid week Still got to order parts ! bla bla Times awasting!

I have also had Very little luck extracting EVEN non broken studs can't even imagine trying to remove a broken one! Good luck !!! Replace the head and get on with it! Minimise your down time ! You may have a Half chance of being running by weeks end! Remember Down time is money !

Not to mention Its the Torque down side If you ever watch a truck pulling a heavy load up a steep hill its always lower on that side!

650 splitting hairs

YUP! MUT or Heinz 57!! Maybe!

You need yo pull the Pan again and pressure up the cooling system and look! Possible causes Liner leakage also plugs in the head can leak There was a cavitation issue with the water pump /front cover at one point but I'm not sure if it related to the AC engine or not!

NOT Too much hope for that !

Also you may have entered a Vicious circle here if this failure has again taken out yet another lifter or fractured it to fail a month or two from after were up and running again! Catch 22! in both cases! The Question posed by Mack Tech is only a weak at best argument !How were they to see a fractured yoke pin would you have been willing to replace a head that MAY or May not be compromised ? Like Kevin said I feel your pain Hopefully They will come to the party for sum of it anyway!

Have they come up with any other rear shaft improvements since 2010 (other than the high torque output shaft for cummins)? I don't see any. Wouldn't call that an improvement That output shaft CHANGE caused nothing but grief ! Of it ain't broke don't fix it! Kind of like the three bolts on the spur shaft If ya got a good idea don't mess with it!

WE have had DRL for ever in canada ! No big deal! And yup My Honda CRV no body can sit there either same scenario ! But just thought I'D fly this out there! With All the hoopla over cell phones and distracted driving Bla Bla Bla! But literally ALL the Auto makers Are putting in dash distractions in the dash now and its ALLOWED I'd much rather have someone Talking on a cell phone , than texting or looking at GPS and the like on the dash-mounted computer screen! They are creating more stupid people enabling them in art of stupidity by putting this crap in the dash! Half of them are barely looking over the hood!

nope

Yup Buy your self a couple of dozen trucks then you might have a Half chance of getting some help! otherwise your on your own!

Agree with the above. Also the people writing the program for the absolutely useless parts search are true nerds. They have no concept of where parts fit on a truck and what they relate to in the category. This adds to the frustration with the Swedish numbering system! Example, when we go to look for a hood wiring harness for a 2012 GU last week by serial number, unable to find it. Yet when we key in the serial number to a similar truck 2 years older, it's there. No problem! So If you want to search for parts and want do it quickly, go to the PAI site, search by name of part, and boom, it's right there in 2-3 clicks of the mouse button! ( An example of simplicity) Totally lost by the Swedes. The new backwards part system sucks! And just to add insult to injury, they are hiring people with no skills to save money behind the parts counter (Not all of the time but for the most part) and give them this crappy parts search to work with! TIME IS MONEY! When I'm in the shop waiting for parts that we can't find, it's not productive for me OR the customer! Or worse yet, I got to stand over the the parts guy to get the RIGHT part for the job because it's not clearly displayed in the system for the poor guy! My rant of the day!

English | Español | Русский | Logout HOME | PARTS | ONLINE ORDER | MY PAI | CONTACT US | CAREERS TABLE OF CONTENTS Mack Engine 2015 > E7 Series > Water Pumps and Components Add New Notes Mack Engine 2015 Catalog E7 (PLN), E-Tech (EUP) Section Water Pumps and Components All OEM numbers are reference purposes only. KEY PAI NO. EXCEL NO. OEM REF. DESCRIPTION REFERENCE INFO 1 EPH-8574 MAK771GB530AM HOUSING,Water Pump MAK 771GB530M 2 EGK-3846 MAK56AX107 GASKET MAK 56AX567 3 Call MAK66AM2 SCREW (M12-1.75 x 30) 4 Call MAK66AM12 SCREW (M12-1.75 x 30) 5 EGK-3826 MAK610GB233 GASKET (Steel Shim/Foamette) 5 EGK-3852 MAK610GB216 GASKET 6 040048 CUM4070462 SCREW (M8-1.25 x 16)(CL 9.8) MAK 421GC279M 6 ESC-0380 MAK64AM2 SCREW (M8-1.25 x 16)(CL 10.9) 7 EGK-3847 MAK56AX392 GASKET 8 EWP-3186 MAK316GC289A ASSEMBLY,Water Pump MAK 316GC570M3 8 EWP-3367 EM33670 MAK316GC284A ASSEMBLY,Water Pump MAK 316GC548AM 8 EWP-3369 EM33690 MAK316GC285B ASSEMBLY,Water Pump 8 801135 MAK316GC3194 ASSEMBLY,Water Pump(Short Shaft) 8 801137 MAK316GC3195 ASSEMBLY,Water Pump(Long Shaft) 9 ERW-0745 EM07450 MAK379GC38 ROTOR (Stamped) 9 801141 MAK379GC318 ROTOR(Stamped)(Used w/ 801135, 801137 Pumps) 10 ESR-3372 MAK447GC224A SEAL (Use w/ ERW-0745 Rotor) 11 ECW-3379 MAK360GB251AM HOUSING,Water Pump MAK 360GB52M 11 801151 MAK360GB54M HOUSING,Water Pump(Used w/ 801135, 801137 Pumps) 12 ESH-3883 MAK469GC254M SHAFT (Used in EWP-3369 Assembly) 12 ESH-3884 MAK469GC253M SHAFT (Used in EWP-3367 Assembly) 13 ESL-3851 MAK518GC11 SLINGER 14 EBG-3870 MAK46AX451 BEARING,Rear BCA 204F 15 ERS-8480 MAK446GC1108 O-RING 16 ETS-0721 MAK550GC22P1 SPACER 17 EBG-3860 MAK46AX497 BEARING,Front (For 2 Belt Pulley) (Double Row)(2.047in OD) BCA 5304F 18 ESR-2831 MAK325GC120 RING,Retaining 18 ERI-2866 MAK325GC222 RING,Retaining(Used w/ 801135, 801137 Pumps) 19 EPP-3574 MAK49AX233 PLUG,Pipe (3/8in) 20 ENU-0405 MAK153AM1 NUT,Lock 20 ENU-0407 MAK171AM5006 NUT (Use w/ ESH-3883 Shaft) 21 EBF-6441 MAK541KB23 BREATHER NAV 110891H 22 EPK-3857 MAK57GC2123A KIT,Pump,Water (Use for rebuilding EWP-3367 Assembly) Includes Bearings (1)EBG-3860 (1)EBG-3870 Shaft (1)ESH-3884 Slinger (1)ESL-3851 O-Ring (1)ERS-8480 Ring (1)ESR-2831 Rotor (1)ERW-0745 Seal (1)ESR-3372 Nut (1)ENU-0405 Gasket Kit (1)EGK-3845 22 EPK-3858 MAK57GC2124A KIT,Pump,Water (Use for rebuilding EWP-3369 Assembly) Includes Bearings (1)EBG-3860 (1)EBG-3870 Shaft (1)ESH-3883 Rotor (1)ERW-0745 Slinger (1)ESL-3851 O-Ring (1)ERS-8480 Ring (1)ESR-2831 Gasket (1)EGK-3852 22 801155 MAK57GC2203A KIT,Water Pump (Use for rebuilding Assembly EWP-3186) Includes Shaft Assembly (1)801144 Rotor (1)801141 Seal (1)ESR-3372 Ring (1)ERI-2866 Gasket (1)EGK-3826 23 EWA-0392 MAK271AM5 WASHER,Flat,Hardened (Use w/ ESH-3883 Shaft) 24 EWP-8678 MAK302GC3200M PULLEY (Cast)(3 Belt) 25 EBT-8683 MAK87GB41A TENSIONER,Belt 26 EGK-3845 MAK57GC182 KIT,Gasket Includes Gaskets (1)EGK-3846 (1)EGK-3852 (1)EGK-3847 27 EPH-8578 MAK771GB4106M HOUSING,Water Pump Includes Drain Valve 27 EPH-8579 MAK771GB535M HOUSING,Water Pump MAK 771GB4107M 28 EWP-8516 MAK302GC475M PULLEY(10 Groove) 28 EWP-8517 MAK302GC4100M PULLEY (10 Groove)(6.617in OD) 28 EWP-8518 MAK302GC4101M PULLEY (10 Groove)(5.392in OD) 28 EWP-8519 MAK302GC4102M PULLEY (10 Groove)(6.125in OD) 28 EWP-8663 MAK302GC43A PULLEY(2 Groove Drive and 1 Groove for A/C Compressor) 28 EWP-8699 MAK302GC476M PULLEY (10 Groove)(E-Tech) 29 ESP-1226 MAK537GC279 SPACER (Used w/ Screw 0366) 30 ESC-0366 MAK66AM7 SCREW (M8-1.25 x 35) MAK 64AM10 31 840090 MAK63AX3695 FITTING,Connector MAK 63AX3458 32 ESP-3175 MAK537GC322M SPACER,Water Pump 33 801127 MAK316GC548M ASSEMBLY,Water Pump Includes Assembly (1)EWP-3367 Pulley (1)EWP-8678 Gasket kit (1)EGK-3845 MAK 316GC548AM 33 801128 MAK316GC548M4 ASSEMBLY,Water Pump Includes Assembly (1)EWP-3367 Pulley (1)EWP-8663 Studs (6)EST-0414 Gasket kit (1)EGK-3845 33 801129 MAK316GC551M ASSEMBLY,Water Pump Includes Assembly (1)EWP-3367 Pulley (1)EWP-8517 Gasket kit (1)EGK-3845 34 801143 MAK469GC326M ASSEMBLY,Short Shaft(Used w/ 801135 Water pump) 34 801144 MAK469GC327M ASSEMBLY,Long Shaft(Used w/ 801137 Water pump) ESR-2831 MAK4103-5010284531 Copyright © 2017 PAI Industries, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Site Map | Terms and Conditions

PAI Has Decent stuff!

Swap the injector to the adjacent hole see if it moves to that hole!

Yup Kev You hit the nail on the head if it ain't broke dont fix it!

Well I stand corrected then! just checking to see if you were paying attention Bud! Its Not unfortunate the concept of only haveing to stock one gear set is a plus for the dealers !

Agree totally!

However you still need a bunch of special tooling to dis assemble so don,t go ripping into one in your Garage Synchronizer Issues tend to be fairly common with these (cheaply made ) and of poor design How ever they are addressing this issue to make em out live the warranty at least As for the true Mack diff They also have messed with its design with some what with some alleged Improvements one bolt to hold the spur gear and preload instead of three ! Sorry Had to throw that in there We have had a few diffs scatter in the last while cause the redesign came loose if it aint broke Dont fix it!

They are pushing mDRIVE down everyone's throat and pricing the Real Truck parts out of reach ! So it's likely a 10 to 1 split!

We sold a fair few V8 s here back in the day! Years ago Every once in a blu moon one would fail a rod bearing I wonder if this here situation is related to those failures we always ended up replacing the crank and rod on the failed Cyl but Never had a chance to see a second failure! on the same engine ,I Actually Was able to change one crank with out pulling the heads to get the rod out. I was able to pull the piston out the bottom Because the failure was on number one ! one and eight are the only pistons that will come out thru the bottom! Interesting issue! Fred

Not sure ! Unusual For sure! I have rebuilt a dozen V8s never run across that situation, usually cracked counter bores! I agree run with it the way it is! I generally use Ultra silicone under the flange How ever in this case I would use anaerobic as I said! Again just an opinion ! Be aware that there is an oring bulletin for the liner orings I may have it posted here on the site here Can't remember! just search it!