theakerstwo

If you are checking the free play with the engine not running then there will be some there. But with the engine runing there should only be little slack in there. The screw is to take out the slack between the input gear and the side gear.The best way to adjust is to break the drag link off of the pitman arm and then lossen the jam nut and turn the srew in a little and then turn the steering wheel from one stop to the other and turn screw in untill u fell a little drag which will be in the middle of the turning range and then just take that drag out to where you dont feel it much any more then hook up drag link and start the engine and if you still have too much slack then replace with a rebuilt. You cant take the slack out of the control valve in the box because it is wear in the sector control or worn bushing or brgs. on the cross shaft or out put shaft. These box should not be messed wih much any way because i have seen people pull then apart and loose something and then it ant no good no more. glenn

Dont know about that but i do know that you will get more power and run cooler on the exhaust with a air/air than a akter cooler. glenn

If you had i guess you are talking about head gaskets leaking or blowing you would hear them making a leaking copression noise like leaking compression to the out side. But if they blowed that soon your engine has a problem other than a torque procedure. I know old boys that dont take time to retorqe and dont have that much trouble. i guess you check the liner protrueion and the top of the liner were not damage.You probley would have compression in the coolant if you had a head gasket leaking bad enough to loose power.It i were you i would find the clyinder that are missing and that is easy and then pull the valve covers on that cylinder and then see if a push tube did not jump off. I my self let the engine get 5 to 10,000 miles on it then let it cool and retorqe by backing off one head bolt at a time 1 turn and retorque it and go to the next bolt and the reset valves. I have not worked on the E9 very much but the 864 865 was my days and the thing you dont what to do is start tear it down llok for the miss. find it firsr and go on it may be a missing injector ,i mean they may have been ok before you pulled it down but any thing can happen when you are around a little dirt that is on all trucks and who knows why a push tube kicks off but some time they do. I dont know what you did to it but you will find it when you start checking for a miss.

Most new trailers have gone to grease packed brgs. because they dont loose as many axles due to leaks and drivers not finding them in time. If you think about it there is not much more than maybe 2 pints of oil in a wheel so it cant leak too long or you may need a axle. The snythectic grease is so much better than the old grease but i can tell you that i was working on trucks when the oiler seals just started and it was noting to repack the front wheels on seem like ever truck that came in the shop and they tryed to do that ever 50000 miles and you would find many bad brgs if not all because that is something that is esay to overlook on mileage. I also remember when the drive axle had two wheel seal in each wheel and that was in the mid 60s.There was a grease packed inter seal which the brg was packed in grease and the outer brg run in oil from the rear end and there was a grease seal on the end of the axle shaft and sealing to the axle housing so the outer brg ran in oil.

Your right. glenn

Stay with ythe oil which nis realy 85/90 grease but do keep a close watch on the oil level like every trip check the level before the flight. glenn

Mack sure that the stop cable is not pulled alittle bit when runing

3306 i should say glenn

make sure and get one that is EPA approved because they put off some emisions know what i mean. glenn

that 1673 is a old engine , not many around any more or people that remember them, that was the forunner for the 3305. glenn

Let me ask or comment on the ideal. Years ago i did a 3 axle all power set up but i knew it had to be a real chore in the start. I used rockwell and peterbilt suspenion and one leveling valve so that was simple cause i could not lift one axle because when you lift any one of the axles it puts too much working angle on the ujoints and it will tear up too many things like the trans for one. On this set up they did not raise the 3rd axle anyway and i dont think you will ever be able to raise the 3rd axle with out pulling the drive line. If you can do it get a patten on it. I whent to a rockwell dealer and he looked up what i need and we only needed 1 power divider.It was on the middle unit and the front had a stright drive no prower devider and the back was a rear/ rear. I was told that the front would pull all time and the power would be divided between the front and the back 2 axles which they can divide the power between them self. I think i could have used a air lockout in front also but keep it lock all time and saved the money that the extra parts cost. The ujoint working angle is very importaint and if you need more infro on that i can scan sone for you to convince you that the angles have to stay within a rangle when the joint is turning. glenn

When i used to keep certified on cummins i had to go to school at cummins at Arlington and he told us on the 5.9 and 8.3 that the springs had to be replaced to a 65 lb spring to keep the valve off of the piston and i got him to tell me what he knew about that and it came clear to me what was going on. On a normal engine the compression and combustion holds the valve tight as well as the spring up to the seat.That pressure is on the valve when the piston is traveling up to the top untill the cam opens the valve. There is little pressure on the exhaust after it passes out into the manifold. Now then if you put a butterfly valve on the manifold and hold a 50lb back presure on the manifold and no more than that on the top of the piston because there is no combustion and very little compression there is only the valve sping pressure holding the valve closed and when the piston starts up from the bottom and the exhaust is closed there is no pressure on top of the piston to hold the valve closed when there may be 50lbs of back pressure in the manifoild and it is trying to push back against the back side of valve and open it and once it opens it will stay open until the piston comes up and hits it. I have seen the blue ox brake installed on DD and it is not uncommon to pull the head and see where the valve have been hiting the pistons but have not dropprd one yet. It is scarry to think about.Old mecedels engine had that brake system from the fractory but there valve sping were heavy and it did not do much good. I think the exhast brake may help but to me it would not be worth much to me on a mack because you dont have but a 673 cc engine any way. The guys that i have talked to that have the exhaust brake on dodge trucks say they work good at 2500 to 3000 rpm but no good below that and i can beleive that. I have a jake brake on a 315 in a b61 and it does pretty good but only keeps you off of the service brake on small hills but not as good as a 60 DD or a cummins. If you could get both doors open and hold them open i think it would be better than a jake brake on a mack. Hope that all makes sense maybe not exspaining it right. glenn

I have seen that set up and seems like i installed one on a KW and now that i think about it i remember that i had to weld the brackets to the top leaf on the spring and i called the spring shop here in tulsa and he give me some rod to weld the bracket to the leaf and told me not to worry about it because the weld was not across the leaf. Noe that was back before air ride so any thing defferent was better than spring and the old man that we installed this on was windy anyway but he said that it helped for sure but that bag is not realy very big so i dont know. glenn

Another photo of the same old dog

I am going to try posting some photos of my old hunting wagon glenn

just keepp on trying you can do it. I would help you but i cant help my self.I was going to post some my self but may not cant do.

I think you have a 6 speed trans not a 10 speed and you dont split each mainj gear. Try to start out in low and 1st gear and go up to direct and 1st gear and up to direct and 2nd gear and direct and 3rd gear and up to direct and 4th gear and direct 5th gear. glen

I can remember seeing only one mack engine do that but trhe way the compression gets to the return is licking back thru the injector line and back thru the delievery vavle in the injectiom pump and down into the barrel and plunger and back thru the return from the pump to the tank.

If you have a injector that is open or bad it could push air back into the injection pump into the return and put exhaust or compression into the tank but then you should have a noticeable miss when runing. glenn

When you get a CE light does the engine derate on power and if so then it may be a over boost code caused by the turbo wastegate not opening at the right time.The wastegate need to be calibrated to start to open at a given pressuyre or you can blow the turbo like so many macks have done in the pass. Some old timers think more boost the better but the ECM knows better and will cut back on the fuel to keep this from happening to take care of its self.The waste gate calibration is very important and cant be guessed at but done with tools of the trade. You need to look at the air hose to the wastegate acticuator and see if some one has uhooked it or pluged it because this is a common truck driver hear over the radio thing and it has been done many times and can blow a turbo. But if mack has told you what it is why not let them repair as needed. glenn

I have installed alot of pac and tec but have not seen any tec in a while and they seen to work about the same untill you get into the latter models and the jake brake may be better. The tec was some cheaper for a cummins i do remember that. glenn

Test or guess did you get that, test or guess that me you are trying on parts and hpeing but nyou need to connect a 100 psi air gage to the application line going to the relay vavle on the rear and to the front axle and check the press from the foot vavle as you posh the foot vavle pedtal down and it should be smooth as the pressure goes up.if it is ok then check the pressure to the chambers from the relay vavle at each axle and it should be smooth as you raise the foot petdal pressure and if it has a bob tail vavle in the rear relay then you will be limited untill you release the triler brakes. the antiskid or abs system will not make this problem. Late model get the blame for too many thins and the system will not cause that problem but a abs modulaion vavle that is bad can be deffective which does the same thing as the relay for the older trucks. glenn

Some people overhaul a thermodyne using the maxidyne liner only with recutting the seal ring in the head of the thermodyne head because the thermodyne liner is hard to get and it will seal the compression better. i dont know what is in the kit but it will have to have a thermodyne piston in it because thermodyne rod is smaller and the wrist pin bore is different size. glenn

You do have 15 gears but some ratios are the same so mack tells you to not use certain ratios. The ratios may not be the same but will be so close to each other that there would be no gain in going into a gear that you may be only 100 rpm different than the one you came from. Some 15 speads do have 15 true and even rpm splits i think that would be a direct drive in hi gear. glenn

That sounds like a good plan.I could have thougt of that my self but you beat me to it Rob. glenn