Freightrain

NOS is New Old Stock(made no matter who made it for the OEM) Not many OEM actually produce any of the parts that go into their vehicles. Aftermarket reproduction is still reproduction if it was not made during the era the vehicle was produced. No comparing the two. Now there are some companies that do reproduce lots of parts using OEM dies and molds. That's good, but still not NOS.

They're coming to Randolph fairgrounds in a couple weeks. Always a GOOD show. My only problem..........after all these years I have a stick race on that Saturday!!! Dammit. Will get to the demo derby on that Wed though. The only rough part is having to watch 3 hours of everything else to get to the big trucks. Not that I don't like all the other classes, but I like big trucks. I thought Joe was trying to sell Brockasaurus? Maybe not? Haven't talk to him since our Ashland truck show a few years back when he brought it to display.

Those F model roofs, kinda like the R models got rusty in the drip rails. If bad enough I could see it coming loose once it gets up to highway speed(even on the trailer)! All the new S cam stuff is easily identifiable. If the chambers are perpendicular to the backing plate, then it is wedge brakes. Wedge brakes were just notorious for getting stuck since all the parts are internal(inside the brake drum). The later S cam stuff being external, you can grease/adjust them easily.

Hopefully the roof doesn't blow off on the way home! Definitely quite an undertaking to bring that back. I haven't seen much updates on the fellow that did that F model. Turned out very nice.

Definitely a 1970's trucking picture right there.

Friend was killed by drunk oil field pickup. Don't recall widow getting anything like this!

Abso-dam-lutely.

Doh...I knew something wasn't right....but couldn't think of Atlas.

How is the rear cab mount area? Mine was patched up loosely by previous owner. I welded the new pieces in solid. Grab cab(with engine off) and rock it.

Sounds fishy to me. I understand the principle of seeing the blades flash and if they are steady it is running smooth(steady rpm). But what does that really have to do with timing? An engine will run smooth if the timing is retarded or advance, to a point. But it gives no actual true reading of what the timing is. In the racing world, I've heard many a story of tuning a car by "sound". Ya, okay. Again, to a point, but it can still be really far off the number you really want and never know it. Lots of bad things happen with too much timing.

Lucky you only have a 5spd. I spent ALL SUMMER trying to learn to drive my Triplex! Note: keep track of what SPEED you need to be traveling to upshift. You can't upshift too soon, as you won't have enough RPM to match the next faster gear. I learned that quick with splitting gears on my Triplex. You have to keep accelerating to upshift. Unlike a car where you can just put it where you want(synchronized trans). Learn what SPEED each gear accels to, then remember the count it takes for it to match RPM to shift. Get to that speed, clutch, count, shift, accel. Repeat. Get a piece of masking tape and stick to dash: 1st gear, 5 mph, 2nd gear 15mph, etc. Then you will have quick reference.

Looks like a United van lines paint? Wonder if the muffler actually rotted to nothing hanging there or before it got moved there? Lots of old iron sitting in that lot.

The styling cues all look the same on European trucks. Not really much different then todays cars/trucks in the US I suppose. Nothing really "different" about any of them, they all look like they came from the same mother. I like most any trucks, conventional or COE. They all have styles of their own back in the 70-80's(and earlier).

I've always loved chrome daytons. Really cool. Would love to do mine.........but guess I'll stick with the KBS coating for now.

"chimed"? You mean chromed?? Spell check sucks.

If you don't have a tach, count and see how long it takes to get it to shift. 2-3 seconds? Find the rythym and just repeat it. It takes time, believe me. Sometimes, if you can get the load off the gears you will be able to shift without the clutch. Sometimes it is just hard to find that sweet spot, as the motor does not decel fast enough. Just use the clutch.

Yikes, ya I checked Mcmaster carr and they didn't have anything "cheap" to offer either. Man, I can't believe there isn't someplace to get something?

Look up stainless pins instead of dowels. You should find any kind of size you want. When I can get on regular computer I can search easier.

Love it. Can watch his movies over, and over, and over..... And I'm not kidding, Shirley.

My race got called for rain last Sat. Only problem, we didn't get any all weekend. They got some at the track Sat morning and with the radar showing scattered t/storms they just said "no way". It was blue skies all weekend. With your motor sitting back even farther then mine, I'm sure it is worse then mine was before I put dynamat on the firewall(when I changed engines). Though I do have dynamat, 1" jute, rubber mat, and carpet on the floor to help with overall noise, it was engine noise through the firewall that was the worst.

Sounds really good with those big pipes.

I think it would be easier to ask for a can of Plutonium?

Sounds good! When I pulled mine a few years back, I could really get into it........but I can't see hurting something that has to pull my race car trailer! I'd like to see how the 237 does now compared to the ol 673.

on the front of every train?

Just a quick cleaning of the gene pool...........sad.