Freightrain

Do you have turbo? Oil cooler? If so, then any 237 filter arrangement should bolt on. If you don't have turbo and/or oil cooler, then it will be tougher to find a spin on set up for it. I was lucky to get mine years back, as mine didn't have turbo/cooler. I pulled my valves apart, polished all the seats and it worked better for like a day. Then back to draining.

When I took that tour of the Age of steam roundhouse, they spoke of how they would buy engines from people that bought them, got in too deep and realized they would never have enough money to finish it.

Cubic money! 375k, then another 500k to move it, then 10 mil to restore, then.......endless costs to maintain.

It rained Friday evening about 5. Just as I got to the track. Just enough to make a muddy mess. Saturday was 90 and sun.

I've driven that dump at Gerharts.. It runs and drives like new. Dave said he would get hassled for hauling dirt in it! He told me that "not like I'm throwing rocks at it!". Though he did put a bucket of dirt in the window on me!!! Nothing some water didn't clean up. The cab is near perfect rust free piece. Dave said it was a site truck that saw no salt. The quad box is rebuilt and tight as new. I was used to my sloppy, noisy triplex. Had some guys show up at Edgewater on Saturday and tell me I needed to drop my trailer and run over to Jerry's. I didn't realize it was the same weekend as my race down there.

Mine was the same forever. Tried bleeding it, polished the check valves. Nothing made it better. Such is life. Only got better when I put spin on filters.

Most into the 70's, most of the GM's had that emblem embossed into the door sill plate. Not a separate tag.

Was the previous owner named Fisher?? Back in late 80's, when I was still truck driver at work, I made quite a few trips to Fisher Guide in Indiana.

Wow.........I use a WHOLE 55 gals of racing gas PER summer............LOL!!!

I've tried a few different things, even some Lucas. It just has loose bearing kinda noise. Years back, when I converted to electronic speedo and had the rear tailhousing off, I pulled a shim from the cover to tighten that rear bearing up. Seem to help more then anything. Under load, it's okay. Just coasting it rattles and clanks along. You can feel the noise in the back box up through the compound shifter. I rebuilt the handles over the winter which helped the shift pattern overall. But the compound handle still buzzes going down the highway. I typically keep my hand on my leg with my finger pushing on the handle to quiet it down.

I've put regular 75w90 stuff in my truck.

We had an old school rootbeer stand locally that had either Lionel or LGB track hanging around the perimeter of the center walkway. Sadly the owner passed, the property sold and it's now a Dollar General? Something like that. Sure do miss going there.

Look for the flat on the drivers side of the differential and see if it is stamped?

I still have two in the box, but not really needed. I already had them relatively new when I swapped it over. I stared with 4-6v with series/parallel switch when I bought the truck. I swapped it to 12v and neg ground the next spring. I bought 4-12v batteries. It would zing that lil 673 over. It would start, unaided, in 19* weather! Those batteries lasted 10 yrs. I then put just 2 in the truck, and that is what is still there. I joke about betting someone I can leave my lights on all night and starting it with ease(not telling them it's air start). Haven't snookered anyone into a bet, yet. Here is one of the first starts after installation:

Some(well most) laughed at me for doing it. Just another "Cool thing from back in the day" I wanted to do. I gathered up a starter, freshened it up with bearings and new nose cone bushing. Local buddy gave me a couple steel tanks. BMT member offered me a nice R model Alum tank(you can see it in the top picture under the bunk). I rebuilt the valve and installed it. Holds air all winter. Works fine for a "toy" truck. Gets looks when you hit the dash button!!

Thanks. It is a long term project. Every few years I throw money at it. Motor, air ride, bunk, cruise control, A/C, air starter, new alum tanks. I just put new(NOS) doors on it last winter. It needs a transmission. The ol Triplex is pretty beat. It buzzes, rattles and clunks......but still gets me there.

Jody, from Welding Tips and Tricks? I enjoy his channel. Saw him giving a lecture at the big Fab show down in Atlanta last fall. The company VP and I were down there looking at Plasma Welders. Heck, I learned to weld cast iron from ChuckE9000 Young fellow, moved from Ohio down to Texas. I needed to weld some cast at work, saw that video and tried it. Worked just fine> Have fixed a few things here at work using SS mig wire and preheating.

Wow...that's badazz. Nearly a football field in boom. That's a real stretch!!!

Hmmm, the signature pictures should always be available? The truck still runs the original Triplex. I have a 4spd Spicer Aux behind that. I stretched the truck about 5 yrs ago and put a 42" bunk on it. Instead of a carrier bearing, I got a 6041 box off a friend. Gives me a 5x3x4 with 4.10 gears. She'll run 85 flat out. Try this: Back in 2001 when I bought it: My rig:

My picture below.....1959 B61. I've done a ton of work over 17 yrs.

Ya, me neither. It's got to get my race car to everywhere I need to go. Thus, never enough power!!!!! LOL!! Don't know what it takes to bump a RB pump? The AB is just 6 screws in the lid and one nut. I played with the original NA 673 that was in my truck. It ran like a scalded dog after I spun the nut a few turns. Mileage suffered horribly!! I then ran it back down. It was not quite so snappy, but it's only 180 hp to begin with. Can't say I saw any major improvement when I bumped the 237. Just a tad bit more heat, thus I figure it must be helping some. I think I turned it 2 flats on the nut. Not sure what needs to be done to make your 285 a 300? or 300+. Just money? LOL!

I haven't messed mine up too bad. Still gets 9 mpg in the hills of PA with the cruise set at 65 mph.

Boost increases with HP rating. I had the turbo rebuilt on mine a few years ago. I thought I had issues, but it was not actually the turbo. For the money I just had them go through it since the motor had sat for a long time and I had little knowledge of the history. I had thoughts of making it bigger, but left well enough alone. Wishing I had changed it now. I'd like to see 20# and what difference it would make. I bumped the fuel up a few notches as it wouldn't even get to 900*. Now it gets to about 1000*. Needs more cool air! (ugh, that's the hot rodder in me. I need to leave it alone)

Just an FYI, I put jakes on my 237. Waste of money? Likely for all I do with it. BUT...I'm pleasantly surprised on how well it actually works. For even my little 30K lb truck, it does hold it well on hills. I was over in PA the other weekend and they have this brutal hill over by Milroy. It held my speed without having to touch the brakes. I'm sure if you have 80K lbs it isn't so great. Better then nothing I suppose. Major parts are hard to come by and pretty costly too. I needed one lash cap(for the early large stem valve). NLA from Mack, I posted on FB and a guy send me one for free. Ever so grateful for FB at times like that. Basic rebuild kits aren't bad, but if you need big pieces, Ouch. It was a simple bolt on. The whole problem with Mack is the small cubic inch and lower compression then a Cat/Cummins. That takes away from the effectiveness of a Jake. Mine shows 5# of boost on the gauge while working. The lil 237 only makes 15+ lbs under load.

I think that seller got some pictures mixed up with the one sitting on the hillside? I know guys pay $1000-1500 just to get a pickup moved from West to East. Not sure what a big truck is?