Freightrain

Heat makes it malleable then as it cools/shrinks it tightens up. My guess is that fuel fitting is much softer material then that brake pin.

You typically can't download a video onto the site(easily). You need to put it on Youtube and link it. Works much better.

Heat would be my only suggestion to reset the head. Cold won't do it. If not, weld it!!

Sometimes......

I took the B over to DW42 last Friday for a "Smoke and Speed" event. It was pretty brutal cold, low 40's and windy, but I thought what the hell. It was a three day event, but I only went on Friday for the drag racing portion. I took 1/2 day vacation and drove over from work. They had it live streaming on MotormaniaTV on youtube. If you go to about 1:46:00 mark the first round of TT for big trucks. Then right after we go again. If you then go to about 5:27:00 mark there is a short interview with me(ya, don't ask me why but while in tech line a fellow was walking along and stopped to talk). This fellow is from MotormaniaTV I guess. There is a couple interviews thrown in the mix throughout the live stream. Unfortunately, due to the program being really screwed up, I left long before they had their eliminations. I got there at noon, it was suppose to start at 1pm. It got bumped to 2pm "due to temperature". Ya, it was only just in the low 40's and windy. So we got two TT about 3pm. At 6:30 we were still just sitting around. A driver came to talk to me, it turned out he was a main sponsor of the big rig part, he was pissed from the lack of action and the messing around they did with us. I agreed. He told me they were going to finish all the pickup racing, wait til dark and then let us run. WTF? It was going to be in the 30's!!! I said F it and left. I hope they spend my $50 wisely. It will be the last money they get from me. It was suppose to be $1000 payout!!! I questioned the sponsor about it and he said he had no clue what they were going to do. They had a diesel drags at Quakercity dragway in 2004 and I did pretty good, as I still have the time slips in the glovebox. I hoped to have some fun, but it faded quickly.

Two exterior screws and it will slide out.

Put a 237 in front of my triplex. Drives real nice. Don't lug it down below about 1400 rpm, or the transmission will remind you NOT to. It will start to thump and it won't put up with that for very long. Use the 673 water pump and balancer. the rest is a simple bolt in. I used my single disc clutch.

Limits flow to a certain maximum no matter what rpm(flow) the pump turns. Yes, in a way it limits the pressure so it feels the same no matter what speed you run the engine.

LOL!! My 2 dr hot rod is a great workbench!! With that big, flat trunk lid it gets piled with lots of stuff. Then it all gets moved to somewhere else when I want to drive the car. Ugh...I need a bigger garage LMAO!!! The Mack isn't far behind, as stuff gets piled on the back of it randomly. Again, all has to be moved when I need to get the truck out.

My compound shifter of my Triplex is crazy annoying. I've put heater hose down over it, not doing much of anything. I have to drive with a finger/hand leaning on the knob to keep myself from going insane on long trips. The transmission is just plum wore out. I removed the tower, welded the knob on the bottom and reground it to fit nice and tight in the slots of the shifter slide rods. I put new clevis's on each rod going to the back box. Nothing. I removed the slide rods and confirmed they weren't worn in the bores. Nothing. I greased it well. Nothing. Until I replace the transmission, there is nothing I will be able to do to remove the noise.

Very cool stuff!! Thanks for posting the pictures.

Thanks for the pictures. I'll get over there someday. It was close in the cards this year, but just couldn't pull it off. I'd like to meet up with some of you east coasters!

Vlad, I feel pretty lucky to even have this equipment at my disposal. The added benefit of knowing enough to run it is a real plus. I'll never claim to be a machinist, but I can turn handles well enough to make most of the things I need. I've been here 34 yrs come Jan 2020, so I've had plenty of time to learn. I've taught myself everything, including machining and many versions of welding(TIG, MIG, Plasma, brazing). When you can't afford to pay someone to do it, you learn to do it yourself.

News is all about "Shock", like Howard Stern(aka "shock jock"). Everything in the media is about getting you to watch something. That in hopes you will then maybe buy whatever the commercials try to sell. It's a vicious circle and why I don't watch much TV anymore. I catch the 7am news for the weather for the day(Local channel) and after that I'm done.

I'm using our 4'x8'(table size) Giddings and Lewis horizontal to drill the bolt pattern on my flywheel when I had to enlarge the holes. We have a 4x6 table version also. Here is the axle for my Cub Cadet lawn tractor. I rebushed the pivot pin and the two spindles with brass bushings. The axle was really worn out and I was able to buy the correct bushing right from McMaster Carr. I basically did just what I told you. Set it up with stops so I could keep the angles correct. I don't have any pictures of it on the mill, but I did use the 4x6 G/L.

Yes, look back by the rear spring hanger(front axle), behind that brake air line. Agree looks like B chassis. Early turbo motor. Look down by front of accy drive( lower pass side), below that fuel filter. Should have stampings across the top that says END673T or the like.

If one side is fine, then they should be able to figure the correct angle to machine the other. A large horizontal mill would be my choice, a small Bridgeport would be difficult to manage. A large horizontal table, lay the axle on its side, align the spindle with the good side and build a back stop to put the spring pads against. Now flip it around and put the pads against the stops and you should have the correct angle to fix the bad side. Wish you were a few countries closer........, I have two large Mills at work that could do this kind of job.

You would think the sleeve would go in from the bottom with a step to be able to hold position. With the axle out of the truck, taking it to a shop with a mill might be cheaper? I rebuilt the axle on my Cub cadet tractor at work on a horizontal mill. I bushed the spindles and center pivot.

Remove air hose and give it a real short whiff, then crank it. If it coughs, then you need to trace lack of fuel. Remove line from lift pump and see if you get anything.

Ok, need some clarification. Gas or Diesel? I am assuming diesel. The fact it won't even snort with starting fluid concerns me. A diesel will at least cough to some extent. A gas motor that does not respond to starting fluid has more in-depth issues.

We have both tracks around here. Magnolia and Mount Vernon are the only 1/8 miles tracks, all the rest can run 1/4 mile. Since most of the local IHRA bracket points stuff is 1/8 mile, DW42 runs most of their programs 1/8 mile. I can remember about 13 odd yrs ago the locals all bitched about only running 1/8. Then like the next year, suddenly they all were raving about it. Fuel cost, maintenance, etc all were cheaper so they suddenly think 1/8 mile is where its at. I don't care, I just want to race.

Crack an injection line and crank it. Does any fuel come it? Lift pump failure? Shut off stuck?? Use a compressor blow gun to lightly pressurize the fuel tank(very carefully), and see if you get fuel at injection pump?? Just a few thoughts

Couple of winning rounds last weekend.... Some days you're the dog.........sometimes you're the hydrant..........

I musta got real lucky, as I didn't have to cut or modify much of anything? Everything pretty much bolted right back in place. Didn't notice anything about the oil pan bolts? Might take a look now(not that I can do anything if I can't get to them). I guess it depends on which injection pump you have/had, as it of the linkage will bolt right up. Mine were identical and nothing needed changing to hook throttle pedal up. Yes, if you have a 67 size trans, you need to get the 72 sized to be able to survive. I couldn't say the model numbers earlier(I was at work and brain was fried). I only bastardized my flywheel because someone had bastardized my crank bolts on the 237. My 237 came with single disc clutch so everything I had fit fine(including my lower right starter). If your 237 came with dual disc clutch(and upper left starter), you need to fit and align your single disc bellhousing to allow the use of your original single clutch(and right side starter). I got some 4" exh tubing and made my own intake tubes. Pretty simple to fab up. Unless you can find some rubber elbows and stuff to make it work?

Bolts right in a diesel truck. Not sure what will need changed in a gasser chassis? Mine was '69-ish vintage approximately. Just a guess. Mine had spin on filters already, I thought all 237's would have? Or not? Not that familiar. Had to refab the exhaust to fit, no biggie. Had to refab the intake pipe to fit turbo, no biggie. What duplex? Lightweight version?(gasser). I would not suggest using those little boxes with a 237. Find a big box or convert the truck to work with the std maxitorque 5 spd.