Freightrain

Pretty sure they have been posted before. Last fall?

Check out a YouTube channel "Jpaydirt". Jeff put a couple of these switchblade turbos on. One being a c15 cat in his KW(took off the twins) and the other a 343 powered dozer. He really likes them. Here is one video talking about it. You can search his channel for others.

I had the opportunity to operate a 1949 Alco RS-3 for a couple hours. That was as cool as it gets!!

Well, if he is anything like my buddy........when he wants ketchup....you better bring a BIG bottle!! None of that little paper cup crap for him. LOL!

Sounds like a really cool truck. I'm sure that 3408 will run fine for a long time if left in stock form and driven with care. My only question is maintenance and repair. Will you be local or long distance and "if" something happens will you be able to get parts(and afford it)? I have a buddy from ATHS that bought an A model KW with 3408 to run OTR and that lasted about a year before he put a 3406 in it. Pretty sure it was mileage that was killing him. He doesn't run heavy and freight was not paying enough to support that old V8. No matter how cool it was.

Always have 4x4 blocks for my race trailer. It always sinks in damp grass at race tracks.

I think Lisle made the lock strip i used. Should be easy to buy anywhere.

Not everyone can read. Not everyone gives a shit even if they can read. I've grown men at my shop that think their mom works there and pick up after them. Pisses me off to no end.

Looks and sounds good Trent. Without having to blind incoming traffic, my Perlux lights do great for lighting up the road. I did finally get the adjusters loosened up to aim my headlights better. That along with wiring in relays, I can see surprisingly well even on back roads. I'm not a fanatic about originality of lights, but any LED headlight is blinding when oncoming.

Vinwiki has a YouTube channel. Not sure if related, but has some neat car stories on it. I've watch lots of them.

I was more thinking of the cracks in the frame due to the twisting. Yes, rust jacking is not good either. My thought was there is lot to look at under there when inspecting a used dump truck. Might look okay until you get the bed off and find it's junk.

My first concern is finding a dump truck that doesn't have major frame issues. They do tend to overload them and take them off road and twist things up. Just a thought to consider. Trailer air would be relatively easy. Better if truck had trailer air already. If not, then it's buttons for the dash and TP valve behind the cab.

My guess is the wheel would have to come off, then that cone would be able to be unbolted. I've changed similar units on cars/pickups before when converting to stick shift and not wanting the automatic shifter collar on there anymore. Might not be too pretty looking with it off?

I have a painted guard and brackets, but not sure if it is B model or R? Is there a difference? I have no use for it, it came with lots of parts I got with my truck years ago.

Hope it was a good one Paul.

Sorry to hear Randy. Mines 90 and just starting on the slippery slope. All my other family has been sudden. I agree, the slow steady failure is horrible to watch.

Watch Wes Work. I came across his channel one day and it peaked my interest. He has some property owned by family with a bunch of old equipment and junk on it and he was posting videos of himself tinkering with engines to get them running. Old dragline, towmotor and the like. I've watched a few of his shop videos of him working on trucks and he seems like a pretty straight forward kind of guy. This was just posted and thought it was fitting to link here for everyone to enjoy. He makes a comment at the end about wanting a B model, but he's a bit tall and would like to find an R model. Can't be too bad of a guy??

Agree, the back box has external shift rails and go to the side of the back box. If not lubed i can see it not wanting to go into low. I just had my rods out of mine last winter replacing the clevises to tighten things up. It could be the detents jammed up also in the top of the box. Or even the shifter itself? It is exposed and if not lubed could rust up.

I remember looking at a Double over Triplex before and realizing first and rev were pretty fast. They were meant for a deep rear gear. With my 4 spd aux, I could still have my slow speed if I wanted it. I'm kinda pushing the power with the little 6041 box, but I'm not heavy. I'd like to just get something a bit more stout. Bert offered me an 8 series box, but I didn't want to go through the retro fit right now. Maybe I should have bought it anyway?

Double over Triplex and 3.90 gears...........she'll get out in the left lane and run!!! I'd love to find a better transmission for my truck to replace my worn out, rattlin' Triplex. Someday something will fall in my lap? Even if it was another Triplex that I could tighten up? I've know a few guys that have some really smooth and quiet transmissions.

They made aluminum boxes. Triplex "TRTL" the "L" for lightweight.

I have three years running an oil bath with my 237. No problems. Has not sucked it dry, though I know it does have some oil film in the pipes. Nothing catastrophic, but I would like to put a dry filter on it someday. Hopefully a stainless model from something newer. I did hot tank the filter years back when I painted it so I know it's clean mesh.

I did put a flip valve on the dash as others had mentioned doing to be able to shut it off. I have turned it off a couple times to see how it steers on the road. I've left it on for the most part now. The drag link does have a touch more slop due to the valving and I don't like the heavy, sloppy feel with it off. In all I have no complaints. It only gets twitchy going around sweeping bends where it sometimes reacts funny as the torque valve gets random input from working the wheel keeping the truck in line.

Vlad, power assist was popular in the 60's even with cars. The drag link had a control spool in it that controlled a cylinder to help steer. The Air o Matic in trucks was similar using air. I have it on my truck, as a simplier way to add power steering without all the fabrication work. It has its downfalls, but I say better then nothing. My unit was in good shape so I hope to get many years out of it. Like this conversation, even hydraulic power steering can have problems too.

Yup. Around the center of the arm thickness, not so much at the top edge where the nut is. Yes, holding another sledge on the back side will help transmit more energy into the joint. It will hold the arm from just bouncing away from your hammer hit. You basically need to distort the hole in the arm so the tie rod taper will unlock itself and fall out.