Freightrain

Ugh. Like I usually say..........."a good day at the races is when it makes it back to the trailer under its own power".

I have a buddies little electic upright power washer. Does okay, but dies after a short time and you have to let it cool and refresh itself. Good for maybe a few pieces of lawn furniture at best. Neighbor has a small gas powered version, seems to do okay for what he cleans up. I've really wanted a hot water version to really clean things up on the Mack. We have a big blue steam jenny at work , but the pump is about shot and it barely drizzles water out anymore. Been trying to get it fixed so I can use it the shop can clean stuff up. I still just use water hose and car wash soap to generally clean it. I have one of those self wringing(folding) mops I use on the trailer. Makes short work of it. 2 x 40ft is a LOT of surface to clean.

Call my agent in Canton. Rachael Chandler Head (330) 477-8529 4422 22nd St Nw Canton, OH Tell them Larry Kortkamp told you to call about insurance on a historical truck. This is not my first referral about this. Have a friend in Findley, Ohio that called her because his local SF agent wouldn't deal with him.

I have State Farm for my truck. Try your local agent. Was through Smithville this morning on my way to Wooster Brush. I work in Barberton.

Thanks Harry. I'm still "in limbo" right now. Hobert, ya "Pro" class(or called "Mod" in IHRA). Basically your no electronics bracket class. Sometimes called "Footbrake". How cornfuzing is that!!! Just to make it interesting, "Super Pro" or "Top" is the electronic class where you can have devices in your car to help make it more consistent. Typically your dragsters and fast cars all run this kind of class. Throttle stops to control your speed and delay boxes to control your reaction time. Now you can dazzle your friends and family with drag racing terminology.

I'll play it by ear. If it stays sunny, then I won't worry about the wash. Not that you can tell when mine is clean or dirty. I have my own hose/sprayer, I'll grab a bucket out of the garage too. Not sure it is worth $65.50 to pay someone to wash it?? Not after fuel and show costs.

Not sure how Mike did it, but many of the guys start in HI range and just go as quick as it can. Anything in the 80's is pretty respectable for MPH. Some of the "fast" trucks do it in the hi 13's ET wise, That's get'n it in a big truck.

Beats the heck out of mine..............at a SMOLDERING........................................................................49 mph.

Shouldn't be too hard to come up with backing plates to convert over. The pins/cams/chambers are all readily available new over the counter.

I have plans to be there. No real schedule set in stone. I haven't even told the boss about it yet, it kinda is a PITA as it is the end of the month and that is my busy time here at work. I'll get it off, but there will be lots of groaning. "IF" I take Wednesday off, I'll be there late Wed, sometime(about 7+ hr drive). If not, it will be Thurs afternoon/evening. I haven't pre-registered, so I'll be waiting in line for that. I'll be staying in the trailer, on the showgrounds.

.............if you order yours today you get a FREE jar of........... For those tough jobs!!!!

Yup, first time I pulled the B model couple years back..................oh ya, it's another money pit of a hobby I could get hooked on. Even with the complete lack of power I got....it was still fun. Best part is when it gets to the "grunt" part of the track. Pulling down the rpm and work'n. Need to get thos vids over to Youtube so you can post them for everyone to see.

Will it do 8 tracks also? I have a bunch that I don't have time to rewind so I can listen to them.

You speaking of these: Don't know who made them or if they are available.

Where is this? If they were as nice as they seem, they would be good to start with. Pricing and shipping is the real issue.

I bought mine new from Barry years back. Stock appearing. $45.00 http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_71&product_id=178 Don't know how different they are from "original" ones?

Wow...turned out great!

Yup, still holding good pressure. Put the gauges back on it yesterday just to see. I agree, I pulled/reinstalled the schrader valve from the input hose attachment point on gauges and that seemed to help. I put a touch of PAG oil on it also to lubricate the seals. I also pulled the system apart on my daily pickup. It has leaked down for the last 5+ yrs since I put a new compressor/hoses on it. I think I found the bad o ring, so replaced it and charged it. Will be happy to see if it holds up like it should. That cheapo HF air/vacuum pump seems to work just fine. Though it is kinda rough on the compressor for the near 1 hr I run it. I have a 6hp/60 gal that keeps up overall, but does run a lot trying. The pump is kinda noisy, only as it boils the water out, it gets to whistling like a tea kettle!! A really LOUD tea kettle. But for $9 I can't complain.

Well, with the temp at 78* Sunday, I had some work to do in the garage. I got the race car put back together and loaded back up. The truck was still a mess from last weekend and the birds took their toll on it sitting outside all last week. I gave it a much needed bath and with the temp inside the cab at 90* sitting in the sun I thought I would try the a/c out again. I put a thermometer inside the cab and started the a/c. First think I noticed was the belt was slipping(squeaking) with clutch engaged). I tightened it a touch and things went back to good. I pulled the idle up to about 800 rpm and let it run for awhile while I washed it. I checked the temp inside the cab and it was down to 70*. Hmmm, that's better. I shut the truck off and finished washing it. I then decided to take it for a quick spin in the country to run it up tto 55 mph and see how it worked. I put 25 miles on it, the temp inside the bunk was down to 65* and I had it on low. I think it will work just fine come warmer weather and though it might not freeze me out it will surely be nice on muggy evenings coming home from a day at the track. Also having the windows closed keeps the noise level down inside the truck.....and that is a good thing anymore.

For the kid in us all: Copied from a scale steam engine site. http://discoverlivesteam.com/discoverforsale/forsale/5_Went/index.htm (bottom of the page) Offering for sale a Marion crane, which I am told is a one-of-a-kind in the United States. It has not been run in a few years and I am told the crawler tracks need a chain hooked up or a belt put back on to be mobile. It is a Briggs and Stratton engine so getting it running is should not be difficult. $7,500. Reduced to $6,500 Crating and shipping is extra of course. Can be picked up in Lakeville, Indiana 46536. Contact me using the form below.

I remember that truck also. Don't recall the details of where it ended up.

I've got pictures of a yellow version of that red COE. Need to dig into a WOT Showtime to see what the model designation is. 97-06-03.bmp

My B model has enough gear for 85 mph. Only way it will get there is off a cliff I have had it near 80 bobtail once.......on a few miles of level ground. Any kind of grade and it slows it right back down.

FYI, Adelmans has alum tanks for $2/gal. About $50 for brackets each side. Found some Sterling tanks, 70 gal that will likely be the candidates for shortening. Nice looking tanks from some very recent additions to the yard. Hobert, they appear to be the same as your picture? Much better priced though!!! I'll have less then $400 in both tanks and mounts. The owner of the towing company that owned my B has been working over in truck sales for a few years(since he sold the towing business). I went over and spoke to him(been a few years since I saw him). Showed him pictures of the truck and what all I've done. He was tickled and is going to make sure I get a better deal on the tanks/straps.

Typically on a car, I put the nut back on the spindle, hang the drum/hub over it and give it a yank. It usually pops seal/bearing out. I've replaced mine before, had to put a speedi sleeve on a couple years back due to a leak that appeared after 11 yrs from the last time it was apart. A brass dift/punch down onto the inner race will also knock seal/bearing out in one shot. If you can't find numbers, some basic dimensions will get you in the right direction at a bearing/seal place. $50/side isn't bad at all. Mine is far from needing it, but glad to hear it is relatively inexpensive.