Freightrain

I always just did it like a car, snug and spin the hub. Find the spot where the lock bolt goes in and its good. Haven't had an issue. I have the off road repair manual, and likely has the "How to" but never looked.

Just happen to have a buddy stop over this past weekend and he told me he had a sniffer somewhere. Might have to have him dig it up? I think I will just charge it up this weekend(if I have time) and see how it holds. Might put a can of dye in it just as a "Might help" kinda thing.

Been an hour west and I coulda hooked you up with some dinner! I always say.....breaking down is always better when you are near someplace. Out in BFE really sucks.

Ok, I thought that is what you did. For $100 you can't come close to making it new.

I suppose I could just buy std round tanks to fit and put some recessed B model steps in the side? I had thoughts of putting some old school round tanks back behind the bunk and make steps(battery box and storage) under the cab. But, I like the "open frame" look I have now and don't want to bulk it up with tanks.

Same weekend as our local truck show. http://www.ohvintrkjam.com/ So if you can't make the run to Mudcungie, stop in Ashland, Ohio. Some day, some way I'll make it to Macungie.

My guess is they want Zinc coating so that the basic body(hub) of the rotor does not rust and look "bad" through the wheels. The friction surface would never rust anyway from use. But the Hub area would unless they powder coat it or at least paint it. I think they just didn't describe it well enough. It is about the sponsors and the parts that are given to them. Lucky for me I don't have any access to these shows anymore. What I have watched lately is Roadkill on Youtube. Frieberger and Finnigan run around on a whim and it is entertaining. Basically just hard core hot rodders having fun at any expense. Finnigan classic line: "best day at work, ever".

I would assume MAX recirculates. That is why it cools it faster then bringing fresh warm air in.

No biggie Mike. Just another "bucket list" kinda thing.

I don't do aluminum. I leave that to my buddy. Between him and another fellow I do work for I have two shops that can roll the alum and get the end bells. If my buddy does the welding, the tanks will be PERFECT. No distortion, no chunky welds, and likely no leaks. He is an anal perfectionist...........and drives me nuts sometimes. If you tack the end bell on enough before doing a full weld, it should not distort. BTW, I pulled the drivers tank off today(after pumping the fuel into the passenger tank--lucky both were about 1/2 full, so it fit). I removed the tank and cleaned up the fuel that was all around the front bracket. The tank had a few gallons left, so I left it sitting in the driveway for an hour or so to see where the leak was. Never leaked. Nadda, nothing. Hmmm, I think, maybe what the deal was when I replumbed the fuel lines when I moved the fuel filter I must pulled the old line through and sloshed fuel all over and it ran down and made it look like the tank was leaking. No other explanation. I put it all back together and let the fuel drain back from the passenger tank. I'll check it in a few days and see. It never really leaked much all winter sitting in the garage. I'm thinking less then half a dixie cup full?

I didn't really inspect those, I kinda just gave up on it, put the truck away and hopped on the motorcycle LOL!! I'll make sure my gauges are okay, the fittings/schraders are tight. It has to be something stupid. It takes about an hour for it to start showing a real change in the needle. I thought maybe I'll just put a can of leak detector and just charge it up and see how it works. At this time I just want to see it work. Maybe it will hold a charge?

Well found one pinched o-ring and another loose fitting on evaporator. Thought all was well.......but not. Still have the same slow leak. Dont know what to do now? Might get some leak detector and charge it up anyhow.. Then maybe I can find the real problem. With three leaks fixed and has the same issue?? I don't get it.

Ya kinda thought so. So I do have a small leak......somewhere.

Well 2 hrs and it only dropped to 25 in of vacuum from the 30 it pulled to. I'll see what it reads in the morning. So how long should it hold vacuum?

Well I think I found my leak. Stupid me forgot to tighten one fitting on the condenser!! Doh. Seems to pull down and hold now. Going to let it draw down for 1/2 hr. If it holds vacuum for a 1/2 hr I might try charging it tomorrow.

Not the exact same, but close: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aegItmNSVJ4

Hmmm, sounds good. I put a Dynomax 4" race muffler(fabricated looking cherrybomb) on mine years back. I ran the stock muffler originally, but it actually resonated so bad in the cab it was worse then what I have now. Mine is under the floor since I have duals on mine. I tried a 5" stack on mine, but it was stupid loud in the cab(resonance) and I took it off and put 4" back on. Here is what mine sounds like: I've thought of rain caps, they're kinda cool. But not sure if it moves enough air to keep two of them open LOL!!

I'm guessing the fitting in the pic has no swivel. Looks to be a replaceable style. You need to remove the other end first, that will allow the whole hose to rotate to get that end out(in the pic). Looks like 1/8" npt. You should be able to just buy some #4? hose(should be stamped on fitting) and just replace it. Only takes a few minutes. Hold on to the sleeve part in vise and unscrew the hex portion. Then unscrew the sleeve holding onto the hose. Cut a new piece of hose and reverse it. Screw the sleeve on til you can see the hose just come to the thread part. Then carefully screw in the hex part until tight. If you are replacing it, just cut the hose and use a deep socket to unscrew the fitting. You will get a better grip on it. You could wave a little propane torch around it. Might loosen it up enough.

If the money gets too stupid, I have the connections to roll my own, buy the end bells and weld it all together(for basically only the cost of the materials). Not that big of deal really. I've already been told that is what I need to do, only need to come up with brackets. I think I have a set of square tank brackets left over? I could modify them to work. Probably have $500 in material for both? Maybe once my spring rush of projects gets over I can start to gather stuff up and have it ready for next winter to bolt on? Still need to patch up the square tank to eliminate the drip I have going on right now.

I was going to, just figured I'd see what the consensus was here. Looks to be the same green o-rings I used when I fixed my pickup truck lines a few years ago. Did I mention, it won't hold a charge for more then a month LOL!! Stupid a/c!!! Guess I have no luck with this crap??? But like the song says..........."I keep try'n........."

Yup, my '72 1210 pickup had the same knob.

I'll give ya a hand..............

Glad you found it. That was going to be my first thought............does it happen with or without a trailer.

Glad to see you made it home safely Ray. Can't wait to check it out!

I've used that before in my pickup. Never did find the leak, even after using the special light in the dark of night. Don't really want to waste 134A trying to find a leak. That is just throwing money away(and lord knows I find plenty of ways to do that anyway). I'll likely find the damaged o-ring when I pull the fittings apart. I just want a better way to install them. That is the root cause of the problem.