Freightrain

I'm guessing the fitting in the pic has no swivel. Looks to be a replaceable style. You need to remove the other end first, that will allow the whole hose to rotate to get that end out(in the pic). Looks like 1/8" npt. You should be able to just buy some #4? hose(should be stamped on fitting) and just replace it. Only takes a few minutes. Hold on to the sleeve part in vise and unscrew the hex portion. Then unscrew the sleeve holding onto the hose. Cut a new piece of hose and reverse it. Screw the sleeve on til you can see the hose just come to the thread part. Then carefully screw in the hex part until tight. If you are replacing it, just cut the hose and use a deep socket to unscrew the fitting. You will get a better grip on it. You could wave a little propane torch around it. Might loosen it up enough.

If the money gets too stupid, I have the connections to roll my own, buy the end bells and weld it all together(for basically only the cost of the materials). Not that big of deal really. I've already been told that is what I need to do, only need to come up with brackets. I think I have a set of square tank brackets left over? I could modify them to work. Probably have $500 in material for both? Maybe once my spring rush of projects gets over I can start to gather stuff up and have it ready for next winter to bolt on? Still need to patch up the square tank to eliminate the drip I have going on right now.

I was going to, just figured I'd see what the consensus was here. Looks to be the same green o-rings I used when I fixed my pickup truck lines a few years ago. Did I mention, it won't hold a charge for more then a month LOL!! Stupid a/c!!! Guess I have no luck with this crap??? But like the song says..........."I keep try'n........."

Yup, my '72 1210 pickup had the same knob.

I'll give ya a hand..............

Glad you found it. That was going to be my first thought............does it happen with or without a trailer.

Glad to see you made it home safely Ray. Can't wait to check it out!

I've used that before in my pickup. Never did find the leak, even after using the special light in the dark of night. Don't really want to waste 134A trying to find a leak. That is just throwing money away(and lord knows I find plenty of ways to do that anyway). I'll likely find the damaged o-ring when I pull the fittings apart. I just want a better way to install them. That is the root cause of the problem.

My drivers square tank has a leak, and that has me thinking again about how to put something a bit more flashy on instead of the old painted square tanks. How available are they? My only issue is I would need two passenger tanks(short one) as I have dual stacks and can't run a long tank on the drivers side. Would the step line on correctly, or be too far forward when switched around? What kind of money do they bring(not all beat up)? I would need the mounts also. I have access to actually build whatever I need, but thinking if I could just buy something that just bolts on would be easier right now(if the price is right). Just putting feelers out there.

Ok, here a question for the gurus. I'm going to pull each fitting apart this weekend and replace any damaged O-rings. Question: What can I use beside PAG100 oil to lubricate the O-rings? This oil is not very substantial and even after applying it liberally the O-rings still went on very dry and I was concerned that it might not work. I was right, they leak somewhere. I know I don't want to contaminate the system, but there has to be something else I can use? Vasoline?? KY Jelly?? LOL!! Sumthing with some substance to it.

Ain't cheap from what I've heard. Don't know it if it true or not or depends on what you get done and by whom.

Wow!!! Now that is old school truck'n!!! V8, mercury sleeper and all. You're a very lucky guy Dan.

My old 673 runs pretty well too. Can't complain for the 14 yrs of service it has given me. More power would be a plus. Don't have the budget for it no matter what I dream about unless someone is giving one away?

That is what I'm thinking. Or just drive it like a 5spd. Seems from what I am hearing, the powerband is at too low of an rpm to use tight splits. It needs to lug down to 1100 to make maximum torque. Seems like it would just be making noise at 1800+ rpm. I'm thinking now it might be easier to find a 237 and make it a 250 then try to find a 250 thermodyne?

Hold up on that car wash boys..............

300 or 300 plus. One is Maxidyne the other is thermodyne. Don't remember which is which.

Thanks for the info Glenn. Not that I have any motors in line but knowing I can make a 250 thermodyne out of a 237 is interesting. Figured that the 205 couldn't move the fuel.

Interesting read Glenn. So basically you can take a 237 and put a thermodyne pump to it and make it more like a 250 thermodyne style engine? Maybe not quite the same HP, but better then just a turbo on a 673 na motor. I would suppose it would be the same with the two different 300 motors?

Well I haven't had time to get to it so I guess I won't try air. Hmmmm. Don't want to waste 134 on it. Boy don't this suck..... Ken. Yes that one.

The cheapie $10 version. They have the bigger electric versions like I saw online for $150. The air version seems to work so far. It did draw it down, but with the leak it would not go beyond 15 in of vacuum. Ya, I figured since the system is meant for 100+ lbs, I could put 20 or so into it and then get the spray bottle out and see where it leaks. Be easier then tearing each fitting apart to inspect the O ring. When I put it together, I used the PAG 100 oil to lubricate everything. But, that oil does not seem to be very slippery and I still was hesitate about how well it would seal. I found out, I was right. I'd rather use like Vasoline or such to get things to really move around easier, but not sure if that is compatible.

Got me a can of 134a for $120 from my buddy at Napa. I also picked up one of those air/vacuum pumps from HF. I hooked it up and it pulled a vacuum.........only problem is I have a leak as it won't hold. As soon as I pull it, it drops to zero. Ugh, time to start going fitting to fitting. Wonder if I could put some air pressure INTO the system and use soapy water to find the leak??

I've heard differing views about using a 237 behind a du/tri/quad. Usually just skip splitting the gears. No need to, and the way the power comes on with a 237 it just doesn't like to be short shifted. I can't say for sure, never driven one. Had the same reservations about using one in my truck. I like all the gears(so far) and I guess it would be a change not having to change gears every 10 seconds. Can you just put a thermodyne pump on a 237 and make it respond correctly? I would suppose there is A LOT more to it.

That was my thought. Didn't know if it had rubber seal or just tapered seat

Truck looks good! Don't worry, the shifting thing will come to you with practice. You shoulda seen me my first summer!!!

$2500??? Can't get a decent 300 out of Adelmans for what that whole truck went for!!!