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Everything posted by Freightrain
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Finally time to start assembly.
Freightrain replied to Hobert62's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I would stay small. I put a 20 circuit in that Willys. WAYYY overkill, but it was already in the car when I started on it. Most kits handle the typical operating systems and I doubt you need more then 10-12 circuits. Heck you have air wipers, so that leaves one out already. Either way, put the headlights on relays(doubt most kits are set up this way--it wasn't in Willys). I took the lo/hi wires and ran them to two relays under the dash and used them to turn them on/off. Then used good heavy wire to the headlights. On my B, I put the relays on the front core support right next to the wire terminals. Even with my std halogen bulbs it would overheat the original headlight switch and make them blink if I turned on the brights. Using the relays I can run my brights without issue. -
Old Noah Comes Home
Freightrain replied to Wobblin-Goblin's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Very cool find. The ol dog sure looks like it has hard a very hard life since new. But, what construction equipment hasn't? Other then Tom(OT), I can't say I've seen many mixer trucks in running condition at least at any shows I've been to.` The only BIG B I always remember is that red/silver wrecker from NY area(saw it at Syracuse in '03). That thing was HUGE! and very well restored. -
I would say as long as the tapers are the same and you can get the right length bar, use it. I wonder if there is anything you could change out(like steering arm on the spindle) to get 517 ends to fit?
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LT Macks
Freightrain replied to james j neiweem's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Likely west coast logging companies using lightweight alum trucks for hauling logs out of the woods. Well, ya, it is going to fail with the brittle aluminum they had back then. Those cast aluminum brackets and such. -
Jay Leno's Garage - Jeff Dunham's AMC Gremlins
Freightrain replied to kscarbel2's topic in Odds and Ends
I run a Unilite module(so many hate those too) in the race car with 6AL. When I dynoed this last motor(first time ever for me) we had ignition issues and the shop was jabbing me about that Unilite module so I bought a new one and it still messed up. They gave me more grief. OH, come to find out it was the dyno wiring!!! Seems a weatherpack plug was "loose" and causing all the problems. Never got any reprieve for the unilite though. Everything else has points in it! LOL!! -
I saw that on TODAY this morning. I guess that is natural selection? If you are crazy(dumb) enough to rely on your car to keep you safe(ie: drive for you) then you get what you get. I'm sorry for the family and friends, but I don't care I am just smart enough to NOT rely on my car to drive, yet. Reminds me of the stories from way back, someone driving a camper, put it on cruise control and got up to use the bathroom and crash. Yup, here's your sign.
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Jay Leno's Garage - Jeff Dunham's AMC Gremlins
Freightrain replied to kscarbel2's topic in Odds and Ends
Hmmm, interesting Paul. Never had one or installed one before so I'm out in left field on that. Just know what I have heard, but I know how that goes. I wonder why the module fails with a reduced input voltage? You would think it would be the other way around? I've wanted to get a boost retard MSD for my blower car, but just don't want to spend the money! For what little driving I do with it anymore and the fact I don't really beat on it as I don't want to find out what those 1968 cast pistons are made of! -
Jay Leno's Garage - Jeff Dunham's AMC Gremlins
Freightrain replied to kscarbel2's topic in Odds and Ends
Had to laugh when the V8 died and they found out the updated ignition failed(likely a Pertronix?). People give me grief when they find out my blown 390 still runs a stock, 1964 single point distributor. Goes to 6K rpm without issue. I've wanted to upgrade the ignition but have seen enough of those conversion fail that I figure just leave the points in it. Oh, someday I upgrade it to something. Local family of boys live/breathe AMC(don't ever call it "almost a chevy" in their presence). Their gremlin does go in the 8's with a super built 401 sumthin or other and a dash of N2O. Street car. It can't weigh more then an empty can of tomato soup. I know how flimsy those cars are. -
Just went through this with a couple local friends lately. Both turned a few flats on the nut and were pleasantly surprised with the increase.
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1958 B 61
Freightrain replied to smithmotorsports's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
Yup. Still waiting for some time to make my own. Ya, right after I get the bunk fixed...LOL!!! -
Can't recall exactly how many flats I turned it but started with a couple, then thought if that is good a couple more won't hurt. Not sure if it ended up 1 full turn or what. It ran well, bob-tailing it would run away from traffic starting at a light. You can hear the snap when you crack the throttle. Once I turned it back down you could hear the "laziness" in the throttle. It was not like adding 100 hp, but it surely helps when pulling a load. Even the 1/2 turn will be noticeable. Ugh, pulling a gooseneck with a gasser. Pure torture(to the wallet). I haven't done that since 1996 with my new F350/460ci. 7 mpg pulling my race trailer. The 2000 PSD got 11 mpg. The "new" 237 gets 9 mpg.
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Ugh, sounds like quite a trip. Glad you made it back home okay. Let me tell you about hydroplaning with good tires. Ugh, if you recall my incident last year going to York. Pucker factor: 100.
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Your Chrysler, Jeep, or Dodge might kill you before you get the memo
Freightrain replied to grayhair's topic in Odds and Ends
Jeezus............rub your belly and tap your head and PRESTO it is in Reverse. WTH???? Why do they make it SOOOOOOOOOOOO freak'n complicated. Does Rube Goldberg work there? Their fix: Dealers will be able to load the software into the vehicles, and it will automatically shift the cars into park if the driver's door opens while the engine is running. Have you EVER had to hold a door open to aide in parking or backing up to something? Guess that is out of the question now. Thanks. -
Ya, back then I was "racing" it when the diesel drags came to town. Shortly after diesel went to $4/gal and getting 4 mpg wasn't cut'n it! I rolled the power back and got 8 mpg and just put up with the drop in power. I'm sure after it was turned up it went from 187 hp to 190 hp(at least). LOL!!
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^^^I read a story about Bob Chandler and Bigfoot. Anyone remember the movie "Take this job and shove it"? They used Bigfoot in many scenes. The director had them basically destroying the truck. That is until Bob basically told them "NO" and demanded he wanted control over who drove it and what they did with it. The ending scene where it goes through the guard shack? Yup, that was Bob driving it(with beard shaved off because actor Robert Hays didn't have beard).
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Yup, the two nuts hold the arm that controls fuel. Moving one then tighten the other back up against arm. I really cranked mine up about 14 yrs ago. Ran really well, got HORRIBLE mileage. I turned it back down and doubled the mileage(back to 8 mpg).
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I have a couple others but never got them downloaded.
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Unlike a typical car/pickup tie rod end, they use different thread pitches to allow lengthening/shortening the rod by just twisting it. Unlike a car where they are left and right handed. Strange, but it works. I went through this about 5 yrs ago with my truck. Lucky mine are still available, but it is the larger 517 axle.
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Ya, I had ear plugs in the truck 14 yr ago. Sadly the noise was worse with the stock muffler on it. It would just drone you to death on the highway. I'm just glad I got the Dynamat put on the firewall, that help tremendously. That and the turbo taking the bark out of the exhaust. It was always louder with the windows down, but not anymore. The guys I see with those big 8" pipes just roaring down the highway....Ugh, ya that is just too much bellow for me. I like to hear it, but not like that. My 4" pipes are just perfect.
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Sure it is cleaner air overall, but I agree with the volume being drawn by the engine I bet it is quite the vacuum inside that air intake tube. Here is a little inside video from the dinner cruise during out show last weekend. Using my sound meter I get a steady 92 db inside the cab with either the windows open or closed. Quite a bit lower then the old motor. I'm pretty sure it was over 100+ db and really bad with the windows down.
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B model hood latch repair
Freightrain replied to Freightrain's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
My return spring was missing on my throw out arm when I pulled mine apart. I did some measuring and came up with a spring at the local hardware just like the ones for the hood latches. Maybe not the perfect one, but by golly it was better then the complete lack of one. It was actually starting to wear on the TOB levers from the bearing just rattling on against the cast fingers for the last 50 yrs? This is the one inside the bellhousing that pulls the bearing tight against the arm. The latches actually do have a small oil hole in the top end. I think that is where I squirted oil years ago since I didn't have to take them off to pour it with the latch upside down. Though too much oil/grease and it will run down the fender when it gets hot outside. -
B model hood latch repair
Freightrain replied to Freightrain's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
I know one of the original ones is pretty tight. This rebuilt version is a bit softer. It holds the hood, but not as tight. If you have good ones, I'd soak them in oil to keep the spring from rusting to pieces. I know I did that years ago, but over time and lots of water it gets dry. I tried to pack a bit of grease into it before I welded it together in hopes to keep it lubricated. -
Well, got a few trips under the belt. Seems to be running well. I did notice an oil leak, but it's coming from the air compressor inlet. Seems I've got some worn rings/broken rings/etc. My guess is while unloaded it is pumping oil back out the inlet screen and it is running down the outside. Guess I might have to pull the compressor from my 673(as it was rebuild) and switch them over. It makes good air but I don't want to deal with the slobbering. I don't really recall my other motor doing this but it had so many leaks it was hard to tell since everything was damp. This engine had the air inlet running to the air cleaner but I switched it to the little air breather box set up from my old 673. Maybe if I put a tube running up to the air cleaner pipe it will contain the oil? Or it will just make a mess inside my intake pipe?(most likely). I'm still trying to get a road video made, just having a hard time setting it up before I go somewhere.
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B model hood latch repair
Freightrain replied to Freightrain's topic in Exterior, Cab, Accessories and Detailing
I suppose you could screw it on? But since you have to weld the body back together it is not that big of deal to put a dot on the top of the washer. That is unless you can get the end of the tube to unscrew? -
Pen and Ink Macks
Freightrain replied to Truck Shop's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Very nice work. Here's one for you. My mother is 87 this year. She just took up drawing about 6-8 yrs ago. She is quite impressive and didn't realize she had it in her. She should have started years ago. She started with color but her eyes are getting bad now and had to go to just black/white. She'd done cars, houses, pets, people. It's a good thing as it keeps her active.
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