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Not sure where to put this, so I'll try here.

 

I bought an old trailer several years ago and the tires are in need of changing. While removing the inner lugs; 2 of the square ends sheared off. Pipe wrench is a fail, so what other ways is there to get these off?? I cut down the side of one with an angle grinder, but couldn't get all the way to the rim. I'm thinking that I can't get to the rim with a torch either (w/o doing damage to the rim). This trailer has old skool brakes and would require a lot of work to replace the lug stud, if I just cut the stud off.

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There is a special tool that is made to get the inner nut off when that happens. It isn't 100% effective, but does work most of the time.

https://www.jbtools.com/ken-tool-30165-dual-wheel-lug-stud-remover/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22174825632

you pound it on and then wrench the nut off.

Once you have ground down one side, I don't think it will work. 

just cutting above the rim may not do it. You may have to pull the hub, if inboard drums, and remove the nut in the drum and drive the stud out. If that is what you mean by "old Skool" brakes!

I think you may be to the point where you have to decide "what to destroy" to get the rim off, and replace the destroyed parts.

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you got the outer nuts off which would indicated going right direction of thread ; not tightening inners due to left/right hand  . depending on how much you cut with die grinder . which is #1 method for broken removal. two ways which have proven successful :: 1- install the outer nut back on close to wheel and weld it to inner deep socket /impact try removal 2- drill number of small holes in broken inner nut close to rim . then the  pipe wrench. another reply just came in ; possible same.

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being "an old trailer" going with idea these are steel wheels not alum which would have the thinner shank inner nuts. option two of drilling the bevel on inner nut allows for penetrating oil to soak threads/nuts , also weakens the inner nut. after drilling inner bevel . a few smacks with BF hammer at broken end helps loosen situation on occasion. 

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Find a bigger sized nut, slip it over the remainder of the nut shank and really lay into it with the welder

It will heat the bahjeebers out of it 

This will hopefully break everything free then undo

If you are worried about the wheel getting damaged, cut some thin tine up to slip over the stud to protect the wheel while welding 

Might need to use a stick welder to get enough heat transfer, MIG lacks penetration compared to a stick welder 

Paul 

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I have the Ken-Tool above on the way. However, this might not work on the one I slotted.  That one may require welding a nut to it - good idea that I never would have thought of. I'm an equal opportunity inner lug breaker - I have 1 broken on each side, so 1 RH thread and 1 LH thread. I haven't ran my portable welder in over a year and the shop welder doesn't have 1/4 mile long leads. I'm sure there will be fun and games to get the welder going.

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Hammer the Ken-Tool on as far as you can, break loose the inner nut but don't remove it, used some pinch bars to get the Ken tool off. Easier to do when it is still threaded on the hub and the rim is available to pry against.

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On 7/27/2025 at 12:44 PM, Geoff Weeks said:

Hub pilot are all right hand thread, Stud pilot (what some refer to as "Budd") are right on right and left on left

the dual fasteners became known as Budd inner/ outer nuts since they were used on budd wheels.

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On 7/27/2025 at 12:46 PM, Geoff Weeks said:

I have come across where someone has swapped a hub from side to side, so always a good idea to check first.

 using  left thread /right thread was due to theory  inner/outer nuts same right hand thread would loosen on left side going with  rotation of wheel. someone swapping wheels to opposite side may create a situation. fortunately I've never had a lug wrong rotation wheel . wasn't my theory just response I was given as to why the left thread. MANY yrs ago.

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1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

Yes Mech... When driving forward, the rotation of the wheels kept the lugs tight.. I remember some older Mopars, and my 58 power wagon having left and right hand lug nuts..  Personally,,,,  i like it... 

the use of "budd wheels"goes back to the '20-30's alll sizes BUT they where single fasteners. the duel fasteners came to be in bigger HD units having inner/outer.

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16 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Yes Mech... When driving forward, the rotation of the wheels kept the lugs tight.. I remember some older Mopars, and my 58 power wagon having left and right hand lug nuts..  Personally,,,,  i like it... 

My 1955 Ford F-600 has those left hand threads on the left side..

Brocky

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