300+ rebuild

[Vladislav]

Or a straight round drift or a screwdriver to put into the washer hole but deep for washer thickness only. Than try to work as a lever, possibly hitting the tool by hammer at its side.

[mechohaulic]

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I dont know that the seal will ride where the little dings are.  What say you,  mech ?

it will be a close call; keeping in mind the replacement hub is going to be shorten!! placing the seal closer to the marks 

[Joey Mack]

Yep.. i see that now.  He did say he was going to machine it

[mechohaulic]

8 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Yep.. i see that now.  He did say he was going to machine it

reread the post;; I believe the two side by side ARE machined.

[mechohaulic]

17 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Ok, next question for the day.

How do you get injector seal washers out.  I have 4 out(fell out).  Two are stubborn.  Used a wide screwdriver and tried to tap into copper and twist(read that somewhere) but nothing.

Thoughs?

are the heads still on the ground as in picture ??? if so a rat tail  file BY HAND tap in and twist. check file diameter using old washer that is out. don't want to damage injector bore. also install   file in injector hole in head to double check clearances. don't remember if the brass washer hole dia is smaller then on heads, small socket/ flat punch from bottom side ???

[Freightrain]

Heads still on floor.  Almost bolted it on until I realized two seals still in the head.  Tried screwdriver, the through hole is same as cup so no shoulder to catch on.  I tried different size drills to see if I could use one to push up.

[mechohaulic]

as a last resort since all others failed. a small sharp chisel :yep . pros VS cons . two notches across from each other . sometimes the washer will bend up ; down side there is also a chance to expand the washer tighter. have done the chisel route with success. since heads are off no contamination in cyl. never tried this BUT small  hole saw to weaken washer. pull that one off your qualified to do open heart surgery!!!

[mechohaulic]

attempt the chisel route; we are talking LIght tapping ; be a mess to blast out the head. 

[mechohaulic]

7 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

as a last resort since all others failed. a small sharp chisel :yep . pros VS cons . two notches across from each other . sometimes the washer will bend up ; down side there is also a chance to expand the washer tighter. have done the chisel route with success. since heads are off no contamination in cyl. never tried this BUT small  hole saw to weaken washer. pull that one off your qualified to do open heart surgery!!!

there might be some good in the hole saw idea:::  7/16 + - saw having a 5/16 guide will keep saw centered in hole; the saw will weaken the center of washer  unlike using a drill which could possibly damage head. another topic having the "wish I was there ". 

[terry]

21 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Heads still on floor.  Almost bolted it on until I realized two seals still in the head.  Tried screwdriver, the through hole is same as cup so no shoulder to catch on.  I tried different size drills to see if I could use one to push up.

Don't forget, there is a reamer once all washers are out, for the injector bores.     terry

[Freightrain]

I used a stiff oil galley brush to clean up the bores.  Not perfect but pretty clean.

 

I will test fit injectors when I get them back.

[terry]

5 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I used a stiff oil galley brush to clean up the bores.  Not perfect but pretty clean.

 

I will test fit injectors when I get them back.

I know it’s your call, but with the trouble you had getting injectors out, i sure would try to scare up a reamer🤷‍♀️. terryespecially since your doing a proper overhaul?

Edited Monday at 10:24 PM by terry

[fjh]

6 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I used a stiff oil galley brush to clean up the bores.  Not perfect but pretty clean.

 

I will test fit injectors when I get them back.

Can’t stress enough! Never seaze ! How ever if you’re like me you will not be worrying about removing them ever again! Your looking after the next guy!

[mechohaulic]

interesting the topic of never seize hasn't shown up before this. always did the never=seize on the injectors before install. caution given during application  don't want the seize going down barrel going between injector and brass washer ,lube 90%

[Freightrain]

2 hours ago, terry said:

I know it’s your call, but with the trouble you had getting injectors out, i sure would try to scare up a reamer🤷‍♀️. terryespecially since your doing a proper overhaul?

I may look at work and see if there is something useable.

[fjh]

15 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

interesting the topic of never seize hasn't shown up before this. always did the never=seize on the injectors before install. caution given during application  don't want the seize going down barrel going between injector and brass washer ,lube 90%

Yup ! You have to have been where he was to learn this !Like I mentioned earlier on a Robert bosch they used and oring to keep shit out somewhat better than the foam on the ambc set up! 

[mechohaulic]

4 minutes ago, fjh said:

Yup ! You have to have been where he was to learn this !Like I mentioned earlier on a Robert bosch they used and oring to keep shit out somewhat better than the foam on the ambc set up! 

have placed  two foams back to back on injector installs also.

[Freightrain]

Progress....

 I put the "newer" valve spring on #5 intake, set head on and just snugged the bolts.  Will torque after front head is installed.

I received my reman 673 water pump and got it bolted on, along with torquing the oil filter housing once everything was lined up.  I got the fan hub slipped on and nut tightened down.  You can tell this is "new" as the bearings and seal make it snug to turn.  Unlike my original one from who knows when??

 

My injectors are ready to pick up.  They had to dig into their cores for a few parts to get them up to spec.  I get them Thursday night. About $650 total.  I still am working on getting copper seals out of front head.  My round file isn't large enough to grab the copper.  Will continue to tinker with that situation. 

I do need to come up with a plug for the puff limiter in the front of the pump.  Limiter was broken off when I got motor.  A question I will ask at pump shop.

I did start to get the gold paint put on.  Just quick coating over most of bottom end.  Will need a couple more cans to actually finish it but first coat will be set.

I need to determine what that hose is sticking out of top of water pump housing.  My 673 didn't have that.  Not sure if that heater connection?  Mine has nipple that I put into new pump down by oil cooler neck.  I can always swap it back for the plug that was in that hole.  I think that pipe just had a cut off black hose and assume it might be heater.  I know this 300 motor had water shut off on rear water manifold just like my 673/237.  The 300 pump didn't have a hole down there by oil cooler like 673 pump.

I did order new lock tabs for exhaust bolts.  No sense in using old rusty ones.

Speedi sleeve should be here Thursday for crank hub.

 

 

[mowerman]

Excellent Larry thanks for that … bob

[terry]

I would guess that nipple off the water pump housing would be to heater,with the return to the water manifold.   terry

[mechohaulic]

nipple installed in the water pump will be the heater; the pipe tube in reman water pump MAY be for a newer style engine having a tip turbine fan inter cooler ??? every thing seems to change to this "updated" crap. picked up a new tower control for 5200 John Deere I'm working on ($520.oo) had newer safety  plate >  45 degrees off original>WTF .. personally I would either return for exact or make short hose section with plug and  run it.

[Freightrain]

I'll run the new nipple.  I hate rubber plugs, that is failure waiting to happen.  I will remove the lower nipple and put the plug back in.  Simple.

[Geoff Weeks]

10 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I'll run the new nipple.  I hate rubber plugs, that is failure waiting to happen.  I will remove the lower nipple and put the plug back in.  Simple.

One looks to be on the pressure side of the pump (new one on top) while the other is on the suction side (lower). Not interchangeable. 

[Freightrain]

That is kinda why I am puzzled.

Both my 237 and this 300 have a shut off valve in the rear water manifold where a hose connects.  But both have different fittings at the pump end.

I was looking at engine and trying to determine water flow directions.  Water should come from bottom of block and up per say and out at thermostat at front of engine.  So the water at rear manifold is "hot" and returning to radiator.  Thus it is going TO the heater core.  Then the line at the pump is the heater "return" and needs to be on the suction side of pump.

[Freightrain]

2 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

One looks to be on the pressure side of the pump (new one on top) while the other is on the suction side (lower). Not interchangeable. 

But, thinking more about it, the suction side is at about 9 o'clock(draws from front of block).  The fitting is at 12, so it that still suction? As the output is at about 4 o'clock as it goes into the oil cooler and then out to lower radiator hose.