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Dumb question


hicrop10

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Heat doesn’t necessarily bother me that much I sunk a clothesline last summer it was 105. My biggest issue was the cement started to heal in the wheel barrel before I got a chance to pour it in the hole. I had to add more water ha ha

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41 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Tubeless rim it shouldn’t matter

It does, the rim will only attach with the stem outward.

 If you are changing from 11x22 to 11x 24.5 you are stepping down one tire size. If, however, you are changing from 10x22 to 11x 24.5 you are staying the same size.

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Rear inner mounts with the stem out, rear outer mounts with the stem in. Front mounts with the stem out.

 It has to do with the heavy mount ring that the wedges clamp too, and what has the taper.

 Inside of the rear spoke has a taper that the inside of that ring mates too

Outside rear, the wedges have the taper.

 

Front spokes have the taper, front cleats  hold the rim on the taper.

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Is there a market for a Spokes 101 thread? They used to be common but are not anymore. Anybody who says you "torque them straight" run from. There is a trick to getting them on, but they are strong and easy to change with hand tools.

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Just have to have to  true them up. That was my next question if you had to change up hubs on the rear. I did hundreds of them back when I was a teenager worked in a tire shop never even saw a tubeless tire back then.

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I was still running 10R x20's on my trucks when I retired. I had a mix of tube and tubeless.  Finding tubes on the road became the reason I started to phase them out. No rim or bead leaks with tube types.

 I ran long haul and carried a spare, regardless of construction.

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Picture 2 would go on the outside of duals on a spoke.  Changing from tube type to tubeless requires reevaluating  the hardware you're using, as at the very least the spacer in the back is often a different width. Then you need to make sure the wedges are correct too.  Steer axle isn't as fussy.

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NO! the spacer and wedges are determined by the spoke hub, they don't change with the rim choice. Spacer sets the rim position for the wedges. The spoke length determines how wide the spacer that is needed and how wide the rims it can hold.

 Difficulty when buying used hubs without the factory spacer and wedges, is getting the correct parts.

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True, but old spacers are often squeezed in some, then the difference from manufacturers ????  can't just take for granted there's gonna be enough there to clamp different rims in place.   That's assuming the spoke is in good shape too. Not uncommon to find them missing some parts after a rim spins past the lumps around the valve stem.   Tight lug nuts are no guarantee rims are tight .

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