67RModel Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 I figure the easiest way to repair it for a hobby truck is to pull the 5th wheel off and drop the axles and suspension completely out of the truck. Drill the ends of the cracks, and weld it up. Then lay a channel insert on the inside of each frame rail going past each suspension mount at least 2' and bolt it all back together. Any crossmembers in the area of the insert will have to be shortened accordingly. But in your situation where the truck has already been stretched it may be better to just cut off the bad section and start over. Either way its a pretty big job..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 IT is one of those "6 of one and a half dozen of the other" Questions.. Even as a hobby truck I think I would try to locate a reasonable priced cut off with air ride and graft it on.... 2 Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark T Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Someone already tried a repair on the bottom flange between the tandems. Like said earlier, fairly common place for a problem on one of those. Truck has potential, definetely worth making some kind of repair to. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Well, all in good time that’s what we do is constantly mess with these things…. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h67st Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Working on trying to get the truck driveable; today's project is the rear brakes. Looks like new shoes are in order. Also some past axle damage; bearing is sloppy on the spindle so I'll have to get that fixed at some point. One inner bearing is stuck on the axle, I'll try an H bar to pull it off. If that doesn't work, is the heat wrench the next step? Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 if two pry bars don't work then for me , it would be gloves/ goggles and 5 in die grinder with cut-off wheel. slice and dice the outer cage then gingerly cut inner . less heat and flame . couple slices on inner sometimes is enough to pry it off. have lucked out with a bearing remover tool wedged behind bearing and tighten; then the BFH for persuasion. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Pull the rollers and cage off the bearing Axle stand underneath on the inner part of the bearing with some weight resting on it Then out with the gas axe, nice and hot and heat small area the, say 3/4" till nice and orange Then belt that with a mash hammer This will make the carrier swell and slip off pretty easy Not a lot of heat, maybe 30 seconds or so, then just into it with the hammer The idea is to heat just that bit of bearing not the axle at all If you don't wanna try heat, just big, like 1 inch high tensile bolt as a punch With the axle supported you should be able to crack the bearing case, might take some belting though And wear eye protection, been hardened steel it tends to splinter a bit and these move quick and fast and puncture skin pretty easy Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h67st Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Thanks for the ideas guys! I got lucky, started to put a bearing splitter on it and it popped right off. You're right about safety gear, whenever I use a hammer, grinder, cutter, etc. I cover everything up. There was a guy on here that got his arm torn up pretty good by a cutoff wheel...let me see if I can remember who that was... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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