Checking oil

[ChesterChop]

I have been checking the oil at the bottom of the ball. Someone told me that there's two other places higher up on the rears I should be checking to. Anyone know where?

[Onyx610]

Bevel gear compartment and power divider 

[Onyx610]

Make sure to change the breather out when you service the rear. 

[Onyx610]

Start at 3:10

 

 

[ChesterChop]

Thank you.  This will help a lot!

[Onyx610]

Perfect!

[Mark T]

That looks like an aluminum frame in that truck. Be interesting to see some more of that Mack 

[ChesterChop]

[Mark T]

😍

[theakerstwo]

To ckeck the grease level use the plug on the rear of the bowl or load housing.The other two plugs are only to fill those compartments after a grease change.The gears throwing oil up will keep the compartments filled.

[ChesterChop]

I started getting a noise out of the front differential.  I was told it was rebuilt not too long before I bought the truck.  I talked to the guy that owned it before me and he said there were two reservoirs above the check bolt on the sump(?)that I should have been checking. I  put around 20,000 miles on it in the last year and checked at the sump a couple times.  The oil level was where it should be.

[63BMack]

It ought to have a pretty good road speed with 3.65 gears. What are the engine and transmission specs on the truck. 

[Onyx610]

Yes!!!! That truck is sick!

[ChesterChop]

Thank you.  It's a 1987 RW613 with a E9 400 and a Mack 12 speed transmission.  I bought it last winter and started running it full time in June.  It would bury the speedometer, when it was working lol. It could pull a little harder but has enough get up to keep me smiling.  I'm sure there's a lot I could go over on the engine to improve it but right now I'm just trying to keep it earning.  I  found what I think is a 1984 RWL722 sitting in a field. Same motor.  They parked it because of a broken frame.It came with the factory dual stacks and I'm in the process of putting the driver side one on my 87.

Edited January 16, 2022 by ChesterChop
Grammatical

[Joey Mack]

Glenn is right ...  just check the level in the bowl, at the rear plug. the rear end is splash lubed and there are channels cast into the inside of the carrier housing to direct the oil where it needs to go..  jojo

[ChesterChop]

Thanks. Sounds like I've been checking where I should be.  It would really hurt to have a costly repair and down time because of lack of maintenance. 

[JoeH]

As with all things mechanical, parts can fail.  If you have a noise coming from the rear you could have a bearing failing. We had one go about 10 years ago.  Ate a few teeth off the ring gear so we dropped a pair of differentials that gave us about 10mph more speed. (Previous top speed was 48mph floored. You could slide into first gear from a stop with no clutch.)

[Mark T]

Judging by that tag on the rear ?  It's not a Mack reman , early failure of those isn't uncommon.  Those plugs you mentioned up on the power divider and side cover for the bevel gear will need to be filled when you replace the carrier.  The power divider.... you'll put a couple squirts in and it'll be running out, but it has to be filled in there. Then the other plug on the side cover and the bottom plug on the housing, all need to be filled. Then if nothing leaks ??  a check in the plug in the housing will be it . 

[theakerstwo]

I have seen noise caused by mismatched tires on a mack rears.I always said dont let the tires be more than a 3/4 inche tall from smallest to largest and the peanuts will last for ever.This noise in most cases will be found as a knock at slow speeds.

[fjh]

18 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

I have seen noise caused by mismatched tires on a mack rears.I always said dont let the tires be more than a 3/4 inche tall from smallest to largest and the peanuts will last for ever.This noise in most cases will be found as a knock at slow speeds.

Also if you have clunks and you have steel bud wheels pull those wheels and look for broken rims!