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Bought a 1983 Mack MH 613 and need a touch of help


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Lots of women in the world,they ain't making MHs anymore 

Are you talking temporarily or permanently? My wife stopped that threat after I built this. It’s nice enough inside that she stays with me at shows now.

Right now, I am not sure exactly what the plan is. I am documenting it on Youtube for fun but it will for sure go back to work on the Farm at some Point. I ahve a 40 foot flatbed that is goin to go wi

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that thing looks real good,,i was hoping you lubed all the cylinders and the turbo before you turned it over,,but best of luck..with it...bob

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1 hour ago, mowerman said:

that thing looks real good,,i was hoping you lubed all the cylinders and the turbo before you turned it over,,but best of luck..with it...bob

I was talking to Joe (mechanic) about that. what we did was crank it over with the the rack closed to get oil pressure up. Maybe I should have done it differently but that was his advice. 

I am concerned about the Turbo though, it takes a few minutes to start to spin up when the truck is started. I am still looking for the "reason" it was parked other than electrical. There is clearly a problem there. Sadly it has been pouring here for the the last 2 days so I have not gotten much done except getting the roll pin out of the brake pedal. Which Was a giant PITA...

I ended up cutting it and even then it was a chore to remove it. My whole assembly is junk anyway so I did not feel too badly but I need to source a new one. 

 

 

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I do have a question, Does this truck have a fuse block somewhere for the cab? 

When I run a test light to the second pole of the solenoid under the cab it shows ground so I guessing it has a huge short somewhere and if I could pull fuses to isolate it would help. 

Thanks

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You can pull air tube off turbo and look at it and try to spin it. Obviously if it has issues spinning by hand there's a issue. Don't worry though you shouldn't have a problem sourcing a used one I have one on shop floor off a 300. 

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I am almost positive you can walk into any truck dealership and buy those treadle valves They’re pretty universal good luck... bob

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2 hours ago, alex g said:

You can pull air tube off turbo and look at it and try to spin it. Obviously if it has issues spinning by hand there's a issue. Don't worry though you shouldn't have a problem sourcing a used one I have one on shop floor off a 300. 

Any turbo shop should be able to reman pretty cheap.

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I spent the day swapping doors from a 1992 f150 onto a 1982 f250 but......Any they fit, only had to splice 4 wires to get power windows and locks 

This first piece of bling for the Mack Arrived today!! call it goofy but I saw it and it seemed to funny to pass up

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53 minutes ago, Countrylife said:

I spent the day swapping doors from a 1992 f150 onto a 1982 f250 but......Any they fit, only had to splice 4 wires to get power windows and locks 

This first piece of bling for the Mack Arrived today!! call it goofy but I saw it and it seemed to funny to pass up

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is that the new mack mascot?:loldude:

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The brake pin housing and the threaddle valve are two different parts. The lower part (valve) is a standart Bendix valve. The top part is a housing with the pin (or plunger) inside and it's special to a MH. R-model has similar part but it's much shorter with shorter pin (and easier to get moving when stuck). The matter is those two parts are connected with 3 screws. You should take them loose or cut. This would allow you to get the upper part off the truck with access to the bottom side of the plunger.

As i remember those two parts are connected to each other having the cab floor in between. So the threadle valve is below the floor and the pin housing inside the cab. i might be wrong on that since we fought this issue already 6 years ago and my helper fixed the truck not me.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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On 5/18/2020 at 12:36 PM, Vladislav said:

The brake pin housing and the treadle valve are two different parts. The lower part (valve) is a standard Bendix valve. The top part is a housing with the pin (or plunger) inside and it's special to a MH. R-model has similar part but it's much shorter with shorter pin (and easier to get moving when stuck). The matter is those two parts are connected with 3 screws. You should take them loose or cut. This would allow you to get the upper part off the truck with access to the bottom side of the plunger.

As i remember those two parts are connected to each other having the cab floor in between. So the threadle valve is below the floor and the pin housing inside the cab. i might be wrong on that since we fought this issue already 6 years ago and my helper fixed the truck not me.

I can see what you are referring to, getting that big "pin" to move is not happening so I am debating sep the Bendix valve from the housing or the housing from the floor of the truck.... 

anyone know what this is called? as you can see, mine is perished. 

Seems to be an air distribution block and is probably a standard Bendix part but I can not seem to find anything on it. 

 

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I finally remembered to get you some pictures of my 1989 MH. It sat for 8 or 10 years and needed an injection pump, injectors, turbo, air receiver and of course tire$ and batterie$. It appears you are luckier than I was.

One picture is the front of master disconnect switch and the other is the back of it. The red knob controls it. The other picture is the back of it. I took the picture of the knob with the camera resting on the left front tire and based on your pictures this is about where the solenoid you posted is located. Like Vlad posted the other day, the disconnect kills everything but the starter and alternator and like I posted the other day the circuit breakers  and relays are in the panel in front of the passenger seat. Of course, from 1983 to 1989 things were probably improved.

I sure like the rear cab window that you have. Good luck.

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4 hours ago, MHfred said:

I finally remembered to get you some pictures of my 1989 MH. It sat for 8 or 10 years and needed an injection pump, injectors, turbo, air receiver and of course tire$ and batterie$. It appears you are luckier than I was.

One picture is the front of master disconnect switch and the other is the back of it. The red knob controls it. The other picture is the back of it. I took the picture of the knob with the camera resting on the left front tire and based on your pictures this is about where the solenoid you posted is located. Like Vlad posted the other day, the disconnect kills everything but the starter and alternator and like I posted the other day the circuit breakers  and relays are in the panel in front of the passenger seat. Of course, from 1983 to 1989 things were probably improved.

I sure like the rear cab window that you have. Good luck.

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Awesome, thanks that helps 

Do you happen to know if the smaller wire to the 3rd pole (usually the activating pole) is key switched 12v? Mine has a constant 5v but I am thinking that is a short somewhere. 

It does not activate when I put 12v to it though so it might have a bad ground as well. IDK 

Thanks though 

This helps 

 

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The threadle valve - now your pictures brings my memories back. What we did was cutting off the nuts from below the floor (seen on your pictures) and remove the valve assembly downwards. Had to disconnect air lines off it so draw a scheme and marked the lines. After the assembly got on a bench we cut or turn loose 3 bolts which connected upper part (with the plunger - tappet) to the brake valve. Hitted the plunger both ends with a hammer, got it free, sanded, greased, put back in. And than assembled everything back together using new hardware.  At the time we also cut the rest of bolts which connected all the pedal plate to the floor. So I was able to sandblast and paint the plate and two pedals in a hope to prolongate their good days.

The big relay - of what i recall we had an issue with power supply in the cab. Turned out there was a big wire which went from below the cab and supposed to power up the fuse panel and it had no voltage. So we reconnect it elsewhere or revised its power sourse or something else, not ready to tell now. The point I wanted to let you know there should be one big wire below or behind the dash at the passenger side which supplys everything in the cab. So it would or could be a point you use checking out electric functioning.

Sorry no advice on sourcing the air line connector (manifold?) Excepting looking for good used one or fabricating in a machine shop.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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I am quite certain the disconnect is manually operated only by the red knob on mine. I would find the fuses or circuit breakers and check for voltage. You never did show the back side of your solenoid. What is there?

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Well great news. 

After beating the stuffing out of it, I got smart and removed the bendix valve from the housing. Leaving the air hoses attached and tapped the piston up through the floor. Should have done that 2 days ago. 

The irony is the bolts on the top of the valve were the ones I was avoiding because you can not see them. The funny part is from years of grease dripping on them and protecting them, they were little more than finger tight and actually easy to remove. The valve fell off and exposed the bottom of the piston. A couple taps and I was free. 

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Not only does it run and drive but it sounds great, that said I have a problem 

I have hi-low and seem to have all forward gears but I can not grab reverse. I am in low but it is not picking it up. Is there a secret I am missing? 

Think the u joints are perished in the shift linkage Any clue where to get those or a part number for them? The look small so I am thinking they are automotive? 

 

 

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Usually some holes in the shifter housing get worn where axles pass them through. In fact it could be required (or might worth) to remove all the shifter (bolted to the cab doghouse) and revise all the joints. I personally would be likely to get just a used spare shifter assembly to revise and have as a spare but seems not easy to put your hand on one. I mean finding a perfect cond shifter is a hen's tooth entertainment To figure the truck has operational reverse or not you can use someone's help. Put the guy in the cab and show how to put the lewer into the reverse. Than get yourself near the linkage (being sitting on the frame rails or so) and try to force the shifter on the top cover of tranny to end up the way it would go when the helper operates the lever in the cab. Than tell him to try releasaing the clutch and see the truck moving or not. Pretty sure extreme caution must be provided during such actions including plan B instructions to the helper if anything would go out of line..

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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1 hour ago, Vladislav said:

Usually some holes in the shifter housing get worn where axles pass them through. In fact it could be required (or might worth) to remove all the shifter (bolted to the cab doghouse) and revise all the joints. I personally would be likely to get just a used spare shifter assembly to revise and have as a spare but seems not easy to put your hand on one. I mean finding a perfect cond shifter is a hen's tooth entertainment To figure the truck has operational reverse or not you can use someone's help. Put the guy in the cab and show how to put the lewer into the reverse. Than get yourself near the linkage (being sitting on the frame rails or so) and try to force the shifter on the top cover of tranny to end up the way it would go when the helper operates the lever in the cab. Than tell him to try releasaing the clutch and see the truck moving or not. Pretty sure extreme caution must be provided during such actions including plan B instructions to the helper if anything would go out of line..

It would work but yes, extreme caution... trust...... and a new set of shorts!

 

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13 hours ago, Countrylife said:

It would work but yes, extreme caution... trust...... and a new set of shorts!

 

Not that bad. Went through and had our shots Ok:)

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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