Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 Hi all, i have an EM6-285 with the tip turbine and engine mounted charge cooler. I have scrounged up a chassis mount front air to air cooler I think I can fit in front of the radiator. My question is about how much it would help. If it would support a little more fuel than the engine mounted cooler. And also would it make a bit more manifold pressure since the turbocharger wouldn’t be bleeding off to spin the cooler turbine. I wonder how much boost would improve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 (edited) I think you won't have enough room for it ! The rad will be in the way! Won't be able to close the hood on it! More mods than you think I'm thinkin! Just sayin! Edited April 5, 2019 by fjh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 I have a B61 that I put a later engine in.I used a T600 air/air cooler and turned it upside down and mounted on the bumper and ducted the pipes thru the front fender panels.We used this for years as a hunting wagon going to the mountains with.Before I mounted the cooler it had a cooler just like you have and in the mountians pulling a 18 ft box trailer the pryo would heat much.So after I mounted the air/air I turn more fuel to it and it no more heat as before on the pyrometer. 1 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 I’m not positive I can make it fit but I’m a gonna drag out the victor gas ax and the Lincoln dc and try. Lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 Do you happen to know if it boosted your manifold boost pressure any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 Yes it did most because I turned the fuel up Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 the front mount intercooler will keep intake air cooler on a 285 and help with keeping EGTs down. you basicly could set the 285pump to 300 specs. I have never looked at the difference in 285 and 300 fuel settings they are likely very close? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 Out oif curiosity what boost do you get from tip turbine and what boost would or should you expect from a intercooler in front of the radiator? Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 Paul, the truck is down for some restoration work but it’s nearing completion and I’m installing boost and pyro gauges so I’ll know after it’s back in service. I put a temporary manifold pressure gauge on it a year or so ago when I was doing a repair to a charge cooler gasket and I can’t remember for sure but I think boost was around 23-24 psi. I have the same question as you. I’d like to have some idea if I could expect a little more pressure. I’m also curious if someone else has already done this conversion on an older r model like mine. I know this hood is only shorter by 1” than the chassis mount trucks we have. I would think surely someone here has already been here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 Lmackattack, Rob told me and my pump shop confirmed that a simple pump recalibration is the only difference in a 285 and the 300+/315 engine. Pump shop also suggested that with a front mount cooler my turbo might support E6-350 settings. ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 It may not fit but I found a front mount that is about 2” thick. I was thinking I can move my a/c condenser down lower to behind the bumper and might fit the charge cooler then. I’m not opposed to remote mounting the condenser and putting an electric fan on it. I’d like to do the E6-350 settings even if it meant a different turbo and injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve p Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 i put a tip turbine on my 350 4v and i make 30 psi under full load ,i run a 300+ turbo and it starts making boost off idle and never had a issue with excessive exhaust temps. the only reason for going to tip turbine was the bonnet clearance to inter cooler. so i cant see why you would make more work for your self for no extra gain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 May be no need. That’s why I asked the question here, to hear from guys like you with the experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 I’m nearly finished now. My cab was too rusted out to save so I pretty much rebuilt another cab and put on the truck. I fabbed my own air ride for the new cab and re-did the interior. Added sound and thermal insulation everywhere while the cab was gutted. All new window channels and seals and door seals. Painted the interior and exterior. Pulled the old 2 stick 6 speed out and installed a fuller 9LL so I could have overdrive.pulled the radiator and replaced the mounts because the old ones were shot and the hood hinges bolts to the radiator so the hood didn’t sit right. I’ll post before and after pictures when I’m done. Swapping in a front mount cooler just doesn’t seem like a lot more work at this point if there’s anything to gain. And at least one member here saw an improvement with a front mount. But that’s why I asked the question here. To hear from guys with knowledge and experience. To try and help me determine if it’s worth trying. I appreciate everyone’s input. If it’s not going to help anything then there’s no point. But if it will help,, after everything I’ve done in the last month or so to this truck, the challenge doesn’t seem like that much more work 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 11 hours ago, Lmackattack said: the front mount intercooler will keep intake air cooler on a 285 and help with keeping EGTs down. you basicly could set the 285pump to 300 specs. I have never looked at the difference in 285 and 300 fuel settings they are likely very close? Trent you guys got the best of both worlds ! A turned up 285 Maxidyne huge pulling range ect how ever a guy wants to watch how much you crank on it it can break the block! Unlike the e7 there are no Brutus screws holding things together When the e6 was converted to 350 they added in some jumper plates between the rod caps to try and stabilize the situation however a stop gap measure in my mind before the E 7 appeared! Just sayin! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 Yup. Seen several 237, (ENDT-675) honked on and busted the blocks. Everything has limits and the E-6 series was at it's limit with the 300+, (IMO) as it wasn't strong enough to tear itself apart, but was strong enough to yield GREAT service if taken care of. I've said that same thing for a lot of years and never been proven wrong yet. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 21 minutes ago, fjh said: Trent you guys got the best of both worlds ! A turned up 285 Maxidyne huge pulling range ect how ever a guy wants to watch how much you crank on it it can break the block! Unlike the e7 there are no Brutus screws holding things together When the e6 was converted to 350 they added in some jumper plates between the rod caps to try and stabilize the situation however a stop gap measure in my mind before the E 7 appeared! Just sayin! I had forgoten about the stabilizer plates Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 I didn’t know about the internal bracing in the E6350. That’s good to know. Sounds like I need to keep it a little more conservative Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 (edited) Those plates and bolts may be hard to find also Edited April 5, 2019 by theakerstwo Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 16 hours ago, Macktruckman said: Paul, the truck is down for some restoration work but it’s nearing completion and I’m installing boost and pyro gauges so I’ll know after it’s back in service. I put a temporary manifold pressure gauge on it a year or so ago when I was doing a repair to a charge cooler gasket and I can’t remember for sure but I think boost was around 23-24 psi. I have the same question as you. I’d like to have some idea if I could expect a little more pressure. I’m also curious if someone else has already done this conversion on an older r model like mine. I know this hood is only shorter by 1” than the chassis mount trucks we have. I would think surely someone here has already been here. My E6 320 tup turbine struggles to make 20 psi according to the gauge I have seen some big numbers Dunno of my gauge is crook or I have a leak or maybe both ?? Something to do one day Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktruckman Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 Does it pull alright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said: My E6 320 tup turbine struggles to make 20 psi according to the gauge I have seen some big numbers Dunno of my gauge is crook or I have a leak or maybe both ?? Something to do one day Paul 1981 E6-315 tip turbine has an oem range of 18-26 psi. So, in spec but may be able to get a little more on it. Interestingly, a 1982 E6-325 with a chassis mounted cooler was set up for 15-23 psi boost. 1 Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 The chassis mounted charge air cooler yielded a cooler intake charge, (more efficient) than the water to air, (tip turbine) and that was probably a player. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 59 minutes ago, j hancock said: 1981 E6-315 tip turbine has an oem range of 18-26 psi. So, in spec but may be able to get a little more on it. Interestingly, a 1982 E6-325 with a chassis mounted cooler was set up for 15-23 psi boost. Thanks for that It seems to pull like a train and once boost is established it runs very clean right down to 1200 rpm Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 Mine performs very similar. Need to pull down a gear at about 1300rpm or so. That of course is my driving style. I'm not a WFO, and idle type guy myself. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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