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mcratchet1

How to test eup pump

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im not getting a code put new 6 injectors and 6 reman eup pumps in a 2000 mr688s 350hp. i still have a miss did cut out test #6 is not changing. is there a mechanically test to perform to eup to see if thats it or the injector? Thanks for any help!!

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Did you pull the cam roller for the #6 EUP and check if for flat spots. Any smoke from exhaust? If so I’d remove #6 injector and loosen the rear rocker arm shaft allowing the valves to close and using a rubber tipped blow gun. Blow air into the #6 cylinder and listen for air coming out intake , exhaust and crank case. That way your ruling out compression issues. 

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ok thanks did not check roller will do that also no smoke, just bought about a month ago and it drove it 400 miles like that i will also do the air test and report back

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6 hours ago, mcratchet1 said:

Mackpro can i put the air into the injector hole ?

Yes , use the rubber tipped blowgun seals around the injector hole when you pressurize it with the blowgun..

Edited by 41chevy

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I had same thing happen. Turned out to be a sucked valve seat.

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sorry it took so long been covered up, so i blew air in the injector hole the only place i heard air was coming out of return line at fuel tank. But the eup roller has several flat spots should i be concerned or drop a new roller in and see how she does?

IMG_7446.jpg

IMG_7447 (1).jpg

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Posted (edited)

😩 Flintstone’d. Sad day. Camshaft replacement time. 

I suspect Mpro meant to get a little rubber blow tip, on a long shanked air gun, all the way down into the injector “hole” till you covered only the smaller injector tip “hole”. 

Has to be Folks turning over trucks for sale when they get metal on the oil samples. How else can you explain that? 

Edited by Mack Technician

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16 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

😩 Flintstone’d. Sad day. Camshaft replacement time. 

I suspect Mpro meant to get a little rubber blow tip, on a long shanked air gun, all the way down into the injector “hole” till you covered only the smaller injector tip “hole”. 

Has to be Folks turning over trucks for sale when they get metal on the oil samples. How else can you explain that? 

Yup its time ! You need to also look to make sure the roller guide pin is not sheared off take a look down the hole see if the pin is still there !!!

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Can i replace the pin? should i turn the engine around and examine cam shaft?

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19 hours ago, mcratchet1 said:

Can i replace the pin? should i turn the engine around and examine cam shaft?

Yes you should and the pin is replaceable Chances are the cam is done for!

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Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, mcratchet1 said:

Can i replace the pin? should i turn the engine around and examine cam shaft?

Yes you should and the pin is replaceable Chances are the cam is done for!

PAI Offers  kits for these. Not sure if Mack still does!

1 ECK-9009 ECK-9009E MAK57GC2190E KIT,Camshaft(Steel Rollers E-Tech)
   Includes Camshaft (1)ECM-8999 Installation Kit (1)ECK-9009-100
 
1 ECK-9059 ECK-9059E MAK57GC2211 KIT,Camshaft(Ceramic Rollers E-Tech)
   Includes Camshaft (1)ECM-8999 Installation Kit (1)ECK-9059-100
 
1 ECK-9066 ECK-9066E MAK57GC2205A KIT,Camshaft(Steel Rollers E-Tech) 
   Includes Camshaft (1)ECM-8788 
   Installation Kit (1)ECK-9009-100
 
1 ECK-9078 ECK-9078E MAK57GC2209A KIT,Camshaft(Steel Rollers Late E-Tech & ASET)
   Includes Camshaft (1)ECM-8789
   Installation Kit (1)ECK-9009-100
 
1 ECK-9148 ECK-9148E MAK57GC2210A KIT,Camshaft(Steel Rollers E-Tech)
   Includes Camshaft (1)ECM-8791
  : Installation Kit (1)ECK-9009-100
 
1 ECK-9149 ECK-9149E MAK57GC2212 KIT,Camshaft(Ceramic Rollers E-Tech) 
  Includes Camshaft (1)ECM-8789 
  Installation Kit (1)ECK-9059-100
 
1 891930   MAK57GC2225A KIT,Camshaft(Ceramic Rollers ASET) 
  Includes Camshaft (1)891918 
  Installation Kit (1)ECK-9059-100
 
1 891931 891931E MAK57GC2228A KIT,Camshaft(Ceramic Rollers ASET) 
  Includes Camshaft (1)891915 
  Installation Kit (1)ECK-9059-100
 
1 891932   MAK57GC2243 KIT,Camshaft(Ceramic Rollers ASET) 
  Includes Camshaft (1)891920 
  Installation Kit (1)ECK-9059-100
 
1 891933   MAK57GC2249 KIT,Camshaft(Ceramic Rollers E-Tech) 
  Includes Camshaft (1)891913 
  Installation Kit (1)ECK-9059-100
 
1 891934   MAK57GC2227A KIT,Camshaft(Ceramic Rollers ASET) 
  Includes Camshaft (1)891917 
  Installation Kit (1)ECK-9059-100
Edited by fjh

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do i have to remove head to replace pin? i cant find any info on pins in the mack book i have

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also should i do bushings, rings, liners rod and main bearings? idk i dont want to go broke but i want it right. Besides a visually inspection what else should i look at or check? or use plasticgauge? also i did a cam and bushings about 10 years ago and my buddy worked at mack in the next town and he let me use there pulling tool i remember #6 being a pain. But my friends gone where can i get that tool? Any help i sure do appreciate

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Bit of a big chore here for a shade tree guy how ever ! No you don't remove the head ! The pin will be a bear to get out but its usually doable!  You can Re use the cam bushings they rarely fail YOU NEED TOOLS ! you need magnets to hold up the lifters to re /re the cam you need a press to get the gear off the cam You need heat to put the gear back on the cam and oven or a rose bud on the torch! the gear gets heated to 450 -475  deg   plus to install I believe ! best to get your part numbers for the cam from the dealer there are different types as you can see by the list I provided!

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i would not call myself a shade tree guy, i have done 3 inframe's on etec motors that i still own that have over 10000 hours on since they were done. I was just hoping to get a few second opinions from somebody who might work on them daily. I have tools and yes i know about the magnets like i said in previous post i have replaced a cam! The bushings do fail, i was able to get some specs on them from another mack dealer. the gear on cam can get pressed off and on thats not a problem. i was mostly wondering if any one has seen this same problem and just replace roller? The cam just has a few surface scratches, i know that will shorten the life of it. Just was wanting to see if anyone had an issue like this and will it hold up another year or so on just replacing the roller and pin! thanks for the help!!

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, mcratchet1 said:

i would not call myself a shade tree guy, i have done 3 inframe's on etec motors that i still own that have over 10000 hours on since they were done. I was just hoping to get a few second opinions from somebody who might work on them daily. I have tools and yes i know about the magnets like i said in previous post i have replaced a cam! The bushings do fail, i was able to get some specs on them from another mack dealer. the gear on cam can get pressed off and on thats not a problem. i was mostly wondering if any one has seen this same problem and just replace roller? The cam just has a few surface scratches, i know that will shorten the life of it. Just was wanting to see if anyone had an issue like this and will it hold up another year or so on just replacing the roller and pin! thanks for the help!!

In My opinion Its worth a try if its going to cost you a roller and a guide pin and some time that's all you got to loose! if in deed the scratches are minor, Go for if it! If you get a year you pay your self .f it fails tomorrow  OWELL You rolled the dice !!

Flush the pan out and give it a go! I Have A hard time believing the cam is not damaged beyond a few scratches  however veiwing the lifter damage!

Edited by fjh

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5 hours ago, mcratchet1 said:

i would not call myself a shade tree guy, i have done 3 inframe's on etec motors that i still own that have over 10000 hours on since they were done. I was just hoping to get a few second opinions from somebody who might work on them daily. I have tools and yes i know about the magnets like i said in previous post i have replaced a cam! The bushings do fail, i was able to get some specs on them from another mack dealer. the gear on cam can get pressed off and on thats not a problem. i was mostly wondering if any one has seen this same problem and just replace roller? The cam just has a few surface scratches, i know that will shorten the life of it. Just was wanting to see if anyone had an issue like this and will it hold up another year or so on just replacing the roller and pin! thanks for the help!!

 I have a 13.5 liter Deer out in the field with a semi-failed OHC. I did install a new follower about 2 years ago and it's still going and passing every oil test. Initially I sent the pic to JD reman and they said for the hours I had...... the new roller was a final lease on life and to replace the engine when the camshaft goes. That follower looked nowhere near as bad as yours. I can't believe you would still have a hardened surface veneer left on your cam ramp.

 

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i would not call myself a shade tree guy, i have done 3 inframe's on etec motors that i still own that have over 10000 hours on since they were done. I was just hoping to get a few second opinions from somebody who might work on them daily. I have tools and yes i know about the magnets like i said in previous post i have replaced a cam! The bushings do fail, i was able to get some specs on them from another mack dealer. the gear on cam can get pressed off and on thats not a problem. i was mostly wondering if any one has seen this same problem and just replace roller? The cam just has a few surface scratches, i know that will shorten the life of it. Just was wanting to see if anyone had an issue like this and will it hold up another year or so on just replacing the roller and pin! thanks for the help!!:thumb:

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18 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

 I have a 13.5 liter Deer out in the field with a semi-failed OHC. I did install a new follower about 2 years ago and it's still going and passing every oil test. Initially I sent the pic to JD reman and they said for the hours I had...... the new roller was a final lease on life and to replace the engine when the camshaft goes. That follower looked nowhere near as bad as yours. I can't believe you would still have a hardened surface veneer left on your cam ramp.

 

So there ya go! Tech has some evidence its doable!    remove the broken pin.  maybe lightly brake hone the roller bore  while  the pin is removed install the new guide pin and rinse the pan out , give it a try Not really to much to loose in my mind! Might go for ever like that!😉

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If you drive local and don't mind the tow back if it fails again, no big deal. If the trucks going to fail out across the country I'd do the cam.

Either way I'd drop the oil pan and get as up close and personal as possible to that cam lobe to check its condition. I assume the cam can be seen from underneath, I've never had an oil pan off anything other than an endt676. 

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Thanks for all the help ended up putting new cam and rollers in working on #6 eup tappet bore pin part# 20706385 are these just pressed in? having a hard time trying to get it to tap out, does anybody know of a certain way to remove pins? Thanks!!

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, mcratchet1 said:

Thanks for all the help ended up putting new cam and rollers in working on #6 eup tappet bore pin part# 20706385 are these just pressed in? having a hard time trying to get it to tap out, does anybody know of a certain way to remove pins? Thanks!!

Interference fit. I’ve always pounded them out with a punch. Not always fun. Imagine #6 is nearly impossible to get a decent swing on. 

Edited by Mack Technician

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