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Got my Mack back from the shop today.. can anyone look up info for me?


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I got the 66'back from the shop , oil in my air system and a leaky oil pan gasket.

I found out that I had to pay $1,471.31 for a Reman Air compressor. Does that sound correct. I have the part # of RX283782BXR that they said was a Mack part # . Its for the 711 Mack engine. Ive never had to buy one before so I wanted to make sure. There's a 442.31 core charge that was added to make it 1,471.31.

I didnt think the $105.78 was too bad for the oil pan gasket.

An empty wallet - Jay

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Holy SMOKES!!!!

I had my compressor rebuilt for $500, door to door in a few days. Few hours labor to get it on/off.

Are you going to get your $442 core money back?? Why did you get charged if they had a core?

I'd pay someone $100 to put a pan gasket on, just so they can get all dirty! Only problem, mine leaks everywhere else too and you'd never know the pan gasket was dry anyway?? LOL!!

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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They took the 442.31 core charge off and left me with 1,029.92 to pay. Like I said I was told that was a Mack part number but I didnt know Mack charged that much for a reman air compressor for a truck that old or even had one. I figured having it rebuilt would have been fine but they acted like that wasnt an option.

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Those plates are easy to get. Nothing special about them. I had one with a pinhole and leaked. Picked one up at local truck parts store.

If you want to check on getting compressor rebuilt, check with Mason Truck parts

http://www.masontrucksales.com/

I've been by the place on my way to one of the local race tracks. Nothing to look at, but they do good work.

One day shipping for me, one day for them to rebuild it, one day back. TruFlo 500? something like that. I did get a new coupler for mine as the original bakelite one had a couple cracked teeth on it. Mine puked tons of oil before I had it done. I'd fill that lil tank up pretty quick and had to make sure I drained it every trip. For the last 8 yrs, not so much as a drop of oil in the tank!!!!

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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So a new set of rings doesnt usually do the trick?

The bores wear a taper into them. You set the ring gap at the top, and it is wide at the bottom. It can work but is less than design criteria allows. Will probably have a short lifespan, or pass oil immediately negating your effort. Years ago I bored one using a faceplate on a lathe. Probably less expensive for a reman unit than the hassle would cost screwing around with it.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I'm gonna cart the 1300 that is on my 1980 R model up to the rebuilder next month when I visit my son. It is slow to build air and I wanna start to driving this one shortly.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I had mine bored at the local engine machine shop and was able to buy conrods, pistons, rings, bearings gaskets and unloader valve kit. I also found I need the crank ground. The whole lot cost about $400.00 Aussie dollars. I have the satisfaction of knowing it has been repaired correctly should last well into the future as the truck doesn't do any serious work and I don't want to pull it off again as the steering box clashes really bad being right hand drive

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