Rob

Does anyone know for sure if a power steering box is the same one used on an RL series, and an RS series? Both trucks have the p/s box mounted outside of the frame as they are straight rail trucks. Would like to have "true" power steering on the new RL if possible. Thanks, Rob

Hi Larry, finding is the easy part. Paying for them is a different story altogether. "This one was priced right". I'll tell you the story when I visit. Rob

No, there are a few of those out there already. Probably get rid of the roof mount air when I change the roof skin, and use a modified hood I'm working on for a charge air cooler, and a/c condensor. Other than those basic modifications, probably not much with the exception to dress it up a little. It is kinda plain right now. Thanks for the complement. Rob

According to my wife: "Everything you own is worth what it will bring across the scales". That is a direct quote. I only wish I weren't serious. Rob

Allow me to tell you from past experience. "Do not even bring that up"! The reprecussions will not be pretty. Rob

I always get caught. Woman is always out thinking me. Constantly leaves me in the middle of the floor "babbling & shit". Pretty sure she would not fall for that one again either. I think I've tried just about everything through the years. Rob

No, I'm not. I do like the long hood trucks, especially the V8 powered units. I've just about reached saturation level so need to stop collecting. I have two more RS series trucks that I'm trying to acquire, but they will both be for parts as one is wrecked, the other rusted beyond repair. Tonight I hooked up my jumper box to the battery cables and all the electrical with the exception of the outer cab marker lamps worked as they should. I also removed the fuel filters, water conditioner filter and oil filters along with the governor cover to check movement of the fuel rack. The rack moved freely, and the fuel filters were about 1/2 full of water. I was told the truck just shut down and maybe that is true judging from the amount of water in the fuel tank(s). The radiator was dry but I dumped seven gallons of 50/50 and there were no leaks. If my filters show up tomorrow, I may run a temp fuel line and see if she'll fire off. There is a possibility that I'll be able to drive this one without a lot of work to do so. That would be great! I've already solemly sworn to myself that I will not tear it apart, (yet). Rob

Thanks guys. I got under the truck and scraped the case clean in the flat spot that has the number stamped into it. It is NOT an overdrive transmission but rather an TRDL107 and is plainly stamped. The shifter in the cab has the overdrive markings, (H,D,N,R) but could have been changed out through the years I suppose. Thanks, Rob

Amen.

Hi Charlie, she won't fall for that one twice!! (Been there, done that)! I'm afraid I must fess up this time. Rob

Hi Oren, unfortuneatly, I know very little about an E-7 as it is too new for me. In my opinion the E-7 should have some type of charge air cooling as it is designed for that. An E-6 series of engine would be almost a straight swap as the correct mount would be readily available in a salvage yard. As far as running an air-to-air it would require some fabrication as the old trucks did not offer it as an option until much later. You would also need to change/modify your radiator for this application for hose routing. A later model radiator may solve this problem but I don't know off the top of my head. Sorry I can't be of more help. Rob

I was looking at my TRDL1070 transmission top last evening in the "new" RL truck and the top is broken out of it. The shift handle swings wildly in the cab and will almost rotate instead of moving side to side. I've not been into it to gain access but looking under the cab from the rear I can see the shift tower is physically broken with a chunk missing. Does anyone know if the shift tower bolts to the main top cover and if so will a standard five speed shift tower replace it? One the subject of this transmission; How does one drive this? What is the correct way to split the gears? Thanks, Rob

Most anything will fit into the chassis. I would go with an E-7 mechanical engine as the E-9 series are getting very expensive to maintain from my understanding. I would be interested in your 866 when you are through with it. Thanks, Rob

While the floorpan and firewall are great transmitters of noise and heat to the passenger compartment of a motor vehicle, they are not the only culprits that need addressed. There is a lot of resonance transmitted via the cab back panel, roof, and doors. If you will purchase and install sound attenuation pads to these area(s), then cover them in another type of material such as "Dynamat", you will be most impressed. The doors will require the window mechanisms be disassembled almost completely, and hand fitting the material behind the guiding tracks and actuator assembly. Sound attenuation pads glued to the exterior door skin on the inside will help trememdously. I use the name "Dynamat" as an easily recognized name brand. There are much less expensive, competing products on the market that work as well. Pay particular attention to the roof and rear window surround areas as these are nearest the ears of the passenger(s). If lead weren't so expensive and heavy, it would be the best to use as it is the most dense material commercially available. Rob

I've already pulled that one on her. It was not found to be popular! Can't disagree though! Rob

You know there Tom, I've actually tried that one before. Now sometimes out of the clear blue she will say: "I think you've bought another Mack that I don't know about". This is a problem as I don't have a long enough memory span to know if I've told her anything or not. Rob

I have been threatened within an inch of my life if I do that naming thing after her. I tell you, "no sense of humor sometimes" with that woman. She really doesn't car too much what I do in the shop; Just have to leave it at the shop. I don't even entertain business calls at home any longer. We both work long hours so uninterupted "down time" is important. Rob

She's not too bad, quite tolerant actually. 31 years being married to me says something about tolerance. I know my wife wishes I had some other hobbies but the trucks are what I enjoy, so I'm let to be me. Rob

Thanks Paul, I agree with what you've stated and with Glenn also. If my springs are fatigued, or marginal, they will be replaced without question. It is worth an evaluation rather than just arbitrarily replace them. Besides, if I did that, my already limited supply of funds would expeditiously evaporate. Yes, it is very kind of Morgan to let me use his trailer. I certainly do wish he would give it to me, but I don't "smell" that happening! He uses it too much also. I like this RL and hope it runs well and it's problems are minor. I should know something by next weekend. Rob

That's right Fred. The other truck with all the ancillary stuff on the frame was a little over 22,000# and just a little more that the trusty Dodge needed. It flawlessly did the deed though. Ordered a complete engine and trans filter change out kit from Mack this afternoon. Just for shits and grins I also ordered parts to rebuild the shifter handle that is a Mack "Selectair" type. I don't really know if it is bad or not, but as long as the truck has been sitting it sure won't hurt. The transmission is a TRDL1070 and is overdrive. With a 4.11 rear ratio, it should really scoot and will be good enough for who it is for, (me)! Any idea what type of gear lube should go into the transmission, and rears? Do I need GL-4, or GL-5? I would like to use 80W-90 if acceptable to drive the truck year round. Also how does one know which rear suspension is installed? Where would an I.D. tag be located on Reyco spring? Thanks, Rob

Got a call from my bride a few moments ago: Seems she was inclined to feed my "shop cat" and upon entering the building, turning on the lights, apparently discovering my latest acquisition. She swears I will regret ever teaching her how to use a cutting torch, and sharpening her knife. If allowed her way, she would have a big pile of scrap metal covered in blood, (mine). I'm out of town for a couple of days with my daughter, so "pray" for me and possessions; I really don't want to lose my nuts upon return. That would ruin my whole day. Rob

You may need to prime with the hand pump for 150 times and I'm not kidding. Do not pump really fast, but use slow, deliberate strokes. Of course ensure the fuel filter cannister is plum full to the top. Are you certain that the suction line from the tank to the transfer pump is sound? A slight pinhole in an old hose will not allow fuel to pull up. What I usually do with a problem child such as you mention to temporarily replace the fuel line with a length of copper tubing into a remote tank such as a 5 gallon diesel can. The fitting on the pump is a 45 degree flare which is the same available at every hardware store. Once you know the pump is getting fuel by the primer handle getting harder to pump, give it about 15 more strokes. Then start the engine. It will run rough, but smooth out in a few seconds as the pressure comes up in the injection lines and the air is purged from them. Again be sure your fuel filter cannister is full to the top or you will pump an awful long time!! Once the engine smooths out shut it off and reconnect your fuel line to the tank. Go ahead and restart the engine and it will run on the filter cannister supply and the transfer pump should replenish this supply before it starves out and dies. If you have further problems, purchase a rebuild kit for the transfer pump, they are cheap and it is good insurance to do with something that has been sitting for a long time. Don't feel bad. It is extremely easy to casually overlook something like a battery cable connection as there are so damn many of them in a series/parallel setup. Sometimes it takes me longer to finish a job because I have to recheck myself a couple of times before I'm done and sign off on a repair. Rob

I have not as of yet and it is not a dead issue; Just haven't had time as my daughter was kicked in the chest by a horse, and spent a couple days in the hospital with a fractured sternum. I'll keep you posted. Rob

I agree with Chuck on the Michelin tires. Air pressure is vital in that application also. Rob

Yes, it turns over without knocking or being tight. The prior owner never tried to get it running and he had it seven years. The guy he bought it from said that it just stopped running, so it was replaced and never repaired. As bad as some of the stratoflex hoses look on the truck, it could be something as simple as a fuel line but I want fresh filters, batteries and such before attempting to work with it much. Rob