Rob

Tom, my hammer is ready to help you remove your existing glass. It would be beneficial for you to order both the perimeter seal, and locker strips for the glass also. The old rubber is tough to work with but can be done. Use a small bead of "bedding compound" around the pinchweld when setting the new glass seal to guard againt migratory leakage. Rob

I'm on the same page as you James with the "Reddy Heater", or "salamander" as they're called here. I've never used caustic soda on aluminum but know if left to dwell it is detrimental to cosmetic appearance from staining. These tanks have sat for over seven years, and possibly up to nine, and the algae is like tar build up on the interior after draining. I'm going to try to clean them this afternoon, then "tig" the broken part where the exhaust rubbed through on the passenger side at the top, finally sending them to be polished as I'm too lazy to do it myself. Thanks for the help. Rob

My closet was rubber lined. Helped me keep my sanity. Rob

I pulled the tanks off of the "new" RL to get them clean internally. There is so much algae and other growth/slime in them the I plan to steam clean them as best I can before going after them with chemicals. I bought a 90 degree spray tip for my 2000psi steam cleaner, so I should have the power and heat needed but what type of soap, or solvent would be recommended for the areas I can't reach? I was surprised how light these 80 gallon tanks actually were. I can carry them both at the same time. Momma laughed at me cause I had a tank in each hand, and was carrying a two litre bottle of Coke in my teeth. Said the tank in the middle was the dirty one! Of course this was the opportune time to reveal that I caught her snarfing down over 1/2 of my mother in laws double dutch chocolate cake when she only left me a small piece; about 1/8th slice. She wonders why I've lost 29 pounds, and she has gained four! When Knobby eventually gets back from Siberia, he ain't gonna recognize me! Rob

I've got four of the damn things now and not a single one finished! Getting real tired of looking at boat anchors. Three I know run very well, and the forth has not shown up at the shop yet. They sure sound different than the inline engines. Real close on a deal for a fifth and then I'll quit, or add onto the building, (with the loss of my nuts I'm sure). Rob

Not too awful bad when all parts are new. A little slop in the tie rod ends, king pins, drag link, or torque valve and you've got erratic operation. The torque valve only has to move about .090 internally to start routing air to assist steering effort. Loose parts and all goes haywire. Main drawback is the "jockeying" into position with a trailer. The air depletes quickly with wheel turning and the little 7.25 cubic ft. compressor struggles to keep up on a B series truck. Going down the road it is great as you still have manual steering road feel. That is something you didn't have in the days of hydraulic assist steering. Rob

That plug should go to an electric coolant, (block) heater installed into one of the cooling passages of the engine. This is usually through a frost, core, or freeze plug as they are called. There are also external mount that tap into either the lower radiator hose, or a heater hose. Most use 110VAC power. Plugged in, it should keep your engine warm enough to start without the use or ether. I would plug it in and verify it works before it gets cold. In your locale, it really won't be needed a whole lot but up north where the winter temps dip into the teens and lower, they are necessary. Rob

It is with great regret to inform that the input submitted by you has been deemed unusable by the quality assurance division of our company. It is with heartfelt "Thanks" that my conveyance of gratitude is expressed for your submission. The effort is "very much" appreciated. We look forward to working with you again in the future. Best regards; Rob

Barry at the B model store can set you right up. Those items are readily available new. Rob

I've got an early 70's RS700LST series tractor, wrecked, that needs to come from Billings, MT, to somewhere around central Illinois. I'll go as far as Des Moines, Chicago, or St. Louis to off load it but can't justify the time away from the shop to make the complete run myself. Really want to get this home before the snow flies so PM me with any interest. The truck is wrecked, about a 200 inch wheelbase but does roll. I would estimate the weight to be about 11,000 pounds as it is a lighter weight single frame tractor minus the rear drop ins and most of the wheels/tires. There is equipment on sight to push it onto a trailer. A single drop trailer would be fine without height issues. Thanks, Rob

It would hurt the driver a lot less if he wacked his own nuts off through sacrificial rights, rather than leaving the task for me. Rob

If someone were to turn over, or upset one of my trucks and it was attributed to complacency, or ignorance, they would have a lot more than insurance to be worried about. Their health would definately be a factor to be concerned with. Rob

Thank you for your valued input. The response will be evaluated through our quality assurance division, with a formal report issued as to the feasibility of implementation, and application of your supplied input. I expect your response will meet, or exceed expectations. Thank you for taking the time to respond. Best regards; Rob

Anybody know when Mack started using different color steering wheels in the cabs? I've got a 72 R685 with a green wheel, a 73 RL797LST with a white steering wheel, a 77 R795 that has a brown steering wheel, and a 78 RL755LST with a black steering wheel. These are all factory Mack wheels. Also, is there any way to discern when a cab was manufactured by numbers someplace? Thanks, Rob

Hi Philipp: I don't have manuals specific to the DMM series of trucks but do have a full set of service manuals from the early 1980's that I can look into having scanned to send to you via a file in PDF format. Would this be of help to you? Rob

Mine weighed right at 11,832#, (therabouts) minus a fifth wheel, but is a little longer in frame length. Rob

Trent's truck was yellow. One of my B models is marked very similar and used amost the same colors. Rob

Hi James, when you hit the reply button to post a reply there is under the box you type into a couple of buttons: one says browse, the other upload. Hit the browse button and locate the photo you want to post. After it is selected, hit the upload button and it will go to the line or window above it and the display will change to 1 attachment, hit the browse button again and do the same process over and over till you have the amount of photos you want to post. Tab, or cursor to the bottom and hit the button add reply, or submit modified post. Thanks, Rob

Just by looking at it in the supplied photos I would put the weight at about 13,500#. That of course is just a guess. Rob

The wires are disconnected on it so I don't have an idea at this point. It is a "Kysor" brand. I plan to reuse the a/c compressor and brackets that are mouned on the engine and it could be over a year before I break into this truck to replace the roof skin. Rob

Got her running last evening with fresh filters, and fuel. It runs very well and I'm pleasantly surprised. It did appear to shut down from water contamination in the fuel as when I blew the lines clear while disconnected, they shot a lot of water from them. With no manual primer pump on the injection pump it required much more engine cranking than I like to do. I had both fuel lines, (suction, and return) into a gallon bucket of fresh fuel so I could not pressurize the system to help it prime. I did pre-fill the filters before installation. This engine revs faster than any other Mack engine I've ever had. No blue smoke either! The truck readily and rapidly built up air pressure to the cutout pressure, (120psi) but I could not move the truck. The auxillary section of the transmission appears to be in the neutral position and will not shift into high, low, or reverse. I spoke with Tracey at Watt's and he has given me a couple of areas in which to look. I know this problem is simple but never being around one of these before, I need guidance. Discovered that a mouse has chewed the air line in the roof that goes to the air horn valve as I could see it. All air functions appear to work as they should as does the in dash pyrometer. As soon as I stepped on the dimmer switch to change the headlamps from low to high, it exited this life and I lost all lighting in the truck as the switch fell apart. Jumpering the wiring brought it back to life temporarily. I've got another switch to install but must be tested. If I can't get it trans fixed by simple means, I'll get it to someone that can. I did find my five speed shift tower so I'll pull the cab floor panel and try to see what gives with this problem also. I am relieved. Rob

Most old Macks would much rather perform useful work rather that sitting idle. Be wary if your wife starts to threaten the loss of your nuts. I've lived under the duress of this threat for many years and I still possess my equipment, including all of my Macks. That could change in a relatively short amount of time given her uncanny interest in sharp utinsils and knowing where I sleep! I would say you are safe as long as you only get the "elevated eybrow" stare, or the "glare", (believe me, it ain't affection), that we guys are so accustomed to receiving. Sure hope you get good service from the truck! Rob

Looks alright to me and if it serves your purpose, it was worth the conversion. As for your wife's opinion, "Did you ask her to give it"? "Momma" don't like none of my trucks either, but that has never stopped me..... yet. Rob

These are of the manual box on the 73 RL series truck. Thanks, Rob

I'll do that when I get to the shop this evening. Thanks, Rob