Rob

St. Louis Spring used to charge about $75.00 ea., (including parts and bushings) to heat them, arch and retemper for the springs on the front of 4X4 pickups. I can't remember how many pairs of them were sent there. Most of those trucks in the late 70's to early 80's barely made it a year before the springs were going flat. I've got at least eight springs that I would like to have evaluated. I will check with Tulsa. Thanks, Rob

Thanks Dave, I'm going to order a box of filters tomorrow and try to get it running by mid week. I've got a couple of "extra" V8 engines if this one isn't any good. Rob

Hi Paul, did they re-arch hot, or cold? I used to have it done hot and they held up very well. Rob

This thing followed me home early this morning looking to my soft side for love, care, and compassion. You can guess what kind of luck it had. It is a 1973 RL797LST with an ENDT866B engine and 10 speed Mack transmission. It does not run currently, but is not blown up, (supposedly). It is factory built with "Reyco" spring suspension, and has 4.11 gears. Overall not in really bad shape and I quietly "forced" the prior owner to give me, (rather than sell) the OEM roof skin panel he had purchased for it. He had inadvertantly left out a few minor flaws (to me) in his description. I have a spare passenger door, and with a new roof skin and underlying repairs, it should be good to go. This truck has an aluminum frame, front & rear hubs, battery boxes, and many other aluminum parts. A couple things I'm not particularly fond of is the wedge brakes both front, and rear, and the "Air-O-Matic" steering. I have not tested anything yet, but want to pull the drums to check on the hardware first. They did readily "back off" so we could roll the truck. The aluminum 20" wheels are JUNK! I've never seen aluminum rims so corroded before. There are big hunks of aluminum that literally peel off in your hands and are definately unsafe to use on the road. With the exception of sagging front springs, the suspension appears to be tight. The passenger side aluminum fuel tank has a hole rubbed through the top of it by an exhaust clamp and I drained out about 32 gallons of water before it started to change to fuel! Both fuel tanks will have to come off the truck to be cleaned throughly before starting to work on it. They are loaded with slime. The truck has not run in nearly 10 years and has for the most part been in a barn smelling like it inside. There was never a 5th wheel installed. It was a hazardous waste hauler, and had a dumping van body. The wet kit is still on the truck but the reservoir tank bottom was cracked at the valve bung, so it is empty. There is air and electric with a very stout pintle hitch at the rear also. The wheelbase is 221 inches and that is plenty long for me. Enough rambling, heres some photos. Thanks to Morgan Heaton for the use of his trailer to get this home! The trusty & crusty ole' Dodge did it again! Rob

Does anyone do this any longer? I used to send springs to St. Louis and have them done with new bushings, center bolts and all hardware replaced to provide the ride height requested. I haven't seen anyone do this in quite some time so I was wondering if it fell out of favor? Rob

Ensure your grounds to the frame are in good condition. Also run a heavy wire from the post on the end of the starter, to the frame, and use at least a #4 wire. If the switch is "chattering, (jumping in, and out)" look for defective grounds if the batteries are known to be at full charge. Rob

Yeah, I've just busted under 300 again and hope to continue with the loss. Just one less sausage, ham, and cheese pizza daily helps, (of course having Momma make we walk three miles every evening might play also). I swear that girl is trying to kill me. Speaking of Momma, she has learned to not let me eat more than about a dozen boiled eggs at a time as she doesn't like the aftermath! She says the amount of air freshener needed is going to break us! Don't know if it is me, or the air freshener that keeps the field mice from comming in this year. Oh well. Man, the state cops were thick on 74 last night. I must have seen 1/2 dozen with people pulled over. I passed a tractor/trailer with a headlamp out and he was promptly stopped just after I passed. I did not get stopped as stuck with the speed limit. The trusty Dodge, trailer, and load are safely tucked away in the shop. Making plans to get a couple of other errands taken care of in the next couple of weeks with your trailer. Sure appreciate it's loan and you know I'll take care of it. P.S. Brakes worked much better, but I need to change controllers in my truck! Rob

Well guys, I personally met B61Joe yesterday, and what a fine boy I must say. Been a long time since I've seen such a young Mack affectionado; He has the look to carry on our fine tradition to the next generation. Congratulation to Morgan, and Jennifer! Well Done! Rob

Not till you use a white cob after a brown one to see if you need another brown one are you a redneck; (just kidding). Electrical problems can be a bitch to trace out but grounds, and conductors are normally the first place to start. A 40 year old truck will have it's own idiosyncracies but from what I gathered from your explanation(s), your problems were multiple but can only be fixxed one at at time without a visual inspection. If you are going to drive much you will need to address the final drive ratio, or spend lots of time and money getting to your destination. Only 48mph @ 2000 engine rpm is a bit low geared; probably in the 5.XX ratios. Glad to hear it is repaired and thanks for the update! Rob

Hi Denny, that would be it. Glad you agree it is a nice tractor. I really like this one and with still common driveline components, would not be stuck on the road very long with a breakdown. I particularly liked the air ride, very smooth in comparison to anything ever owned by me. Where are you located? I will be through Decatur in the next few days and maybe we can get together and swap lies for a bit? Rob

Tonight in my wayward travels I spied a very clean Burgundy color 1984 Superliner tractor. It has an excellent running E6-350, 10 speed transmission, 4.42 rears, and is air ride, (Neway). All crossmembers from the cab back are new with "0" miles since installation as are all suspension bolts, (the originals were cracked and the owner did not want them welded). The ride height valve is also new. It has twin 120 gallon aluminum polished fuel tanks, and the air tanks are aluminum. The driver's seat is a brand new "National" brand, and looks cheap, although cloth. The truck does need king pins, a reman steering shaft with the slip splines, (the steering box is on the front axle) and six drive tires that are either bald, or damn near bald. The fronts are new on Budd aluminum rims with the rears being spokes. All are 11R-22.5. The rear rims are painted the same color as the cab and are very clean also. I drove the truck and it drives nice, smooth, quiet, and straight. All of the mechanicals seem to be in good condition with only minor cosmetic flaws to the truck. I did not see any rust and there is no fiberglass, or metal repairs at all. It readily accelerates to 65mph without effort. Also there is a wet kit to operate a dump trailer and some aluminum brightwork for appearance. He offered to let me take it home and run it a week to be comfortable with no obligations to purchase. Did not have my camera with me but will on Saturday when I return. I'm serious about this truck and want to be realistic in my offer as I would like to entertain purchasing this. This private owned truck was replaced with a "decked out" 2005 CX series Mack, and it is a real "looker" that the prior owner was losing. Thanks, Rob

Thad; REO was the subcontractor for the Mack "Jr" series of small truck. Rob

I even like it. Rob

Aw Shucks, now my bubble is burst. I thought your impeccable qualities ranked you highest of the available candidates. Because of your selfless devotion to public service, (I highly doubt you haul freight for yourself) I think you should reconsider. Glad to hear you are alright and have a new companion! Looks like Other Dog needs to step up to the plate! Rob

Went to the parts store today and bought new rotors, drums, pads, shoes, holdown and mounting hardware, with rebuilt calipers for the front and rear of my daughters' Ford Mustang car. I always purchase the best quality items and this was no exception. All items were Wagner brand. The rotors, drums, pads, and shoes, were produced in China! The holdown kits, and mounting hardware were sourced from all over according to the tag within the boxes! Buy American my ASS! I've tried to. Corporate greed has made in nearly impossible to support our own. Amazing that it is less expensive, or more profitable to manufacture these items half way around the world, ship them that far, and have an acceptable margin of profit. The total of these parts did not exceed $300.00 complete after the core charges are deducted. The remanufactured calipers were the only thing from this country; And one of them LEAKED requiring a return trip for another! We CAN do better. Rob

I don't know about the bible, never read it myself but I hear it's good. Here's my favorite photo of the founding fathers. Too bad the others didn't listen. Rob

I already nominated Underdog. Now he appears to have deserted us cause he hasn't been seen for weeks. Of course he could be on the campaign trail; Now I'm really gonna be pissed if him and Knobby jetted off to Siberia without me...... Might be another reason to call up the militia. Rob

Oh yeah, I have to keep five of my "precious jewels" inside the shop at all times so they don't get cold, wet, or otherwise uncomfortable. Had to get a rise out of my wife the other day; Told her I had an offer on the 51 Mack, (Sheila). Threatened to de ball me, (her EXACT words) should I do that. Then said the rest could go to the junkyard for all she cares. I guess that means she has accepted at least one. Good luck on the medical issues. Been through a bit of that myself with family. Rob

Well seeing that Bulldog Man has been rounded up I guess me and Other Dog will have to convene the militia and grow "sea legs" cause we gonna need to canoe towards the land of OZ to locate Mr. & Mrs. Knobby. I sure hope they didn't get locked up in the Gulag while runnin off and visiting Siberia without me. Rob

What's the latest on Mikes' plight? Did he get it starting on it's own? Rob

Great to hear you back in action after the "setback" earlier this year. I guess me and Other Dog will stand down for now but be on the ready should such an emergency come up again. Glad to hear you are doing well. Rob

That makes good sense to me Glenn. The E7 series of engine is much too new for me to have any experience on. Every engine I've ever rebuilt, (be it gasoline, diesel, or other fuel gas) has been line honed, and balanced to ensure the crank spins free in the block. I've never done the block work myself, and always left that part to the machine shop. Proper fitting of liners is part of their work. I guess I've never thought about the block having a minute amount of flex, or twisting but it would stand to reason along with the extremes of hot and cold playing a factor also. The only engines I have seen melted in the piston area(s) are due to overfueling without regard to the other parameters that must be met for survival. Rob

I don't think there is too much wrong with turning an engine up a bit, but to get it to survive for long, and not destroy itself, requires proper cooling of the cylinder heads, and combustion cylinder. In marine applications it is moderately easy to extract a lot of horsepower due to the use of fresh water cooling, and no parasitic drag from a cooling fan. My experience is not so much with on highway service vehicles but rather standby power generation. My 12V-71 is rated and optimized this use and uses a remote cooling tower that is sized for the output power, (585hp @ 1800rpm). To put enough of an electical load against the engine to not be able to sustain 1800rpm, will get the temperature to about 190 degrees on the analog meter. The pyrometer will show about 1075 degress on each cylinder. It is part of my annual checks to overload the gensets temporarily. This engine is now a toy and will be installed into an R795 this winter and I have contracted a radiator manufacturer to ensure proper cooling. I also have a 1693TA Caterpillar that is rated for 620hp, (intermittent) and the radiator from the airport crash truck this engine is from, was huge and would never fit into a conventional truck. Both of these engines with properly engineered cooling systems have performed well for many years when operated within their service parameters. I do know from being around Mack engines that to go above 350 hp from an ENDT, or E6 series is about borderline to deliver a respectable service life in truck usage. I've not been around the E7 series of engines but to be able to get upwards of 460 delivered hp from something displacing 738cid sounds pretty good to me. As said, I've never been around the E7 series but a lot of them are out there. I guess in summation I think that a greater quantity of fuel injection requires more air to burn it, ignition at the proper time of the power stroke, easy exit of the expended exhaust gasses, and adequate cooling to rid the engine of heat. This is due to the extra power developed that needs entered into the equation also. When sound engineering practices are followed, any engine will develop substantial amounts of power and useable torque. Then the area of space constraints come into play. A heat exchanger that will deliver the performance required needs to fit within available space. All this power has to fit under the hood of a truck and deliver acceptable fuel economy, and deliver a long service life. Somewhere a balance has to be struck, and current emmision standards met. If one gets to not balancing the parameters to maintain equalibrium, something will be short lived. Usually a driver that is not responsible for repair expenses, and drives by the "seat of the pants" feeling, has a reletively short lived engine. This is not 100%, nor a blanket statement, but fairly accurate. My limited experience is proof enough to me. Many of my friends are line mechanics at heavy truck dealerships, or private garages and I seen many times the results of a "turned up" engine without the other factors considered. Rob

I would jump on the air filter as a start and also ensure all of your air lines and selector valve(s) are airtight. I have never actually rebuilt a 12 speed top cover, but have plenty of six speeds. Just remove the center floor panel to the cab after removing everything needed to gain access, then unbolt top cover complete, take to workbench and replace everything that appears to be worn. Rebuild parts are readily available and will cost less than $100.00 unless something major is defective. Rebuilt shift cylinders used to be available as a complete bolt on setup but I've never had to replace the complete unit; only rings and seals. Rob

It could have just needed "run". I've seen similar on several instances with engines that have spent a good deal of time unloaded. The first time they get to good working temperature, problems disappear, which sounds like your case. Good cheap fix, don't you think? Rob