Rob

I've got several differentials, and transmissions that I plan to service in the near future. All are older with the newest being a 1978, Most are Mack. The exceptions are a single Fuller, (RTO12513), and a Brownie, (6231D), and a set of Rockwell rears. Would 80W-90 meeting the GL-4 spec be good, or would GL-5 be better? Or a combination of both? I know Glenn will know this from experience. Thanks, Rob

The sales agent is not the claims department; There is an unbelieveable difference between the two. I do not have State Farm insurance, never have, never will. Running an autobody shop for many years teaches one a thing or two about the workings of insurance companys. Let's just say this one does not have its' policy holders best interest at heart. Rob

There is a god in heaven and my prayers are answered, (for now)...... Rob

We are. Some just taste better than the others..... Rob

You will need to have a shaft manufactured by a driveline shop. Another thing is that you will not want to exceed 60 inches of shaft length, (light usage) or you will need to incorporate a carrier bearing into the driveline. Any driveline shop will be able to guide you through the needed steps. Rob

Did that piss the owner off? What kind of damage, (if any) to the lower end of the engine? I've never thought an engine could go anywhere near 50,000 miles on conventional oil no matter what the "on board" filtration system may be. Fresh oil at frequent intervals is relatively cheap insurance to me. Think I'll stick with once per year in my hobby trucks, and 10,000 miles with my work trucks. Oil samples concurr with my routines. Rob

The parts you are asking about that seal the glass to the channel is referred to as "glass run channel". The parts that are mounted to the inner, and outer shell of the door is called "flocking", "cat whiskers", or "belt weather strip". The clips are mostly generic in nature and any good glass company that deals in automotive glass should be able to help you. JC Whitney also is an outlet for the home craftsman. The wing window rubber seals are just that, seals. These are very expensive, (almost $200.00 american) and are specific to the truck type. There are a couple of vendors that specialize in reproduction of these parts and I'm sure Barry can steer you the right direction. Get that cab covered to lessen your future headaches since you don't want to give that truck to me. Rob

Ain't nobody can fillet and cook up a "Slab of Lab" dinner using only a chainsaw with "finess" like ole Rob can. I'll have none of this black on both sides and pink in the middle shit neither. By-product of using this animal is that I won't have to listen to the damn thing no more. Gotta wear ear plugs around it now. Rob

They don't have to leak. It is relatively easy to ensure there is no water intrusion with just a little time vested into the project. Rob

Well damn, never easy to lose a friend that you go back a few years with. Especially one that is fond of the same things as you through the years. Sorry for the loss to yourself, and the family. Rob

Wire in two diodes and draw your living space current from the deep cycle batteries, and charge them from the truck when it runs. The diodes will not let you discharge the engine starting batteries with the camper draw by effectively isolating them from the complete circuit. Many camper/rv stores sell a ready made unit but one can be made for a lot less. About $8.00 would be close. Rob

The parts needed are readily available through Barry, (our site administrator) the parts man. Please support those that support us!! Rob

UPS sure had a lot of them at one time. I think they were introduced more or less at the end of the cabovers' heyday in the marketplace. Seems like everything was going to conventional at that timeframe. Rob

Gonna be a hard one not to like. Rob

I'm gaining ground on my end. Truck is back together and hope to sport new paint towards middle of week. Still don't have A/C condensor, engine oil cooler, (backordered) and steering cooler, (same reason). Also need to get new headlamp capsules, (driver's side was busted, passenger side hard to see at night). Gonna have to miss my bulldog on the hood for awhile. I didn't like the support on the original and need to re-engineer mounting. Sure could use that jack for several things I've got going on. Gettin anxious. Blew the seals in my five ton unit so only have a bottle jack now. Rob

Auto Affair Inc. 33545 N. IL Rt. 78 Farmington, IL 61531 309-219-2070 Now you do. I'll fresh butcher the daughters' Lab. "Slab of Lab" is one of my favorite dinners no matter what the season. Rob

I was being POSITIVE!! After giving this some thought it is probably better to err on the side of caution so I agree with you. Pop that hood off, knock the hinge pins out of the edges and stainless strip down the center, and ship it to me. I can make it black a lot cheaper than the cost of a single repair bill. Be sure to tarp the engine. You would have the hood back in about a week. Rob

I would 320 grit on a D/A sander and "peel" the clear back till it has a firm bind between the base and clear. Eventually the clear will feather back and then spray paint on top of everything. This is half assed as hell but if the hood starts to rust underneath the coating(s), and it is not stripped down and removed at a later date, new, fresh paint will never adhere acceptably well. Something you could do is to load the mixer on a lowboy and haul it over to my place in central Illinois. There are at least four Peterbilt repair facilities between your place and mine, so you would get here eventually..... Rob

If funding is the drawback, your idea with a can of Krylon is a good idea for a temporary barrier. Rob

Naw, your wax job had nothing to do with it but rather UV radiation from sun exposure has caused the basecoat to "kick off" the clearcoat. This action is caused by the breakdown of the UV screeners in the clearcoat. The basecoat is now poisoned as it does not contain screeners. This in turn rejects the clearcoat. The clearcoat unfortunatly comes off in sheets. If you blow another coat on top of the existing finish, you will get to do it again in about six months. The existing finish must be removed to do a proper job. The main drawback to leaving it as is: The basecoat is not solid but permeable. Moisture will penetrate the basecoat, and underlying primer, (which is also permeable) and the steel substrate will rust under all the paint. Need to either get the unit inside, or get it painted to avoid this decay. Ya know, it sure seems like I've done that a time or two. Rob

You could get by with three group "31" batteries of high capacity, but I would run four if the truck is started/operated below freezing. Rob

The automotive manufacturers are a private affair. Let them survive, or die with, and by their own means. When their fiscal cup of health was running over, where was their "sharing" of that wealth with the public that they are now asking for a bailout from? These are not new companies going through "start up" cramps or learning curves. They have had many years to hone and perfect their operations. Let the strong survive, the weak perish. Rob

With the exception of the closing panel for the rocker that is welded to the bottom of the drivers, (left) side door. This part can be transferred to the new shell from the old. Rob

I did an internet search on Jack Grey Trucking and they apparently are all over the USA based out of Gary, IN. Inside the cab of this truck were loads of "D.O.D." passes for the shipyard, and other places, all in California. Rob

Finally got the title straightened out on this truck and it is my name, (Auto Affair Inc.). The truck was titled in California and "junked" in 1998 thanks to Californias' willingness to pay over and above salvage value to get older vehicles off of the road. It was salvaged on paper, but nothing ever done to the actual truck. It turns out this truck was a dedicated hazardous waste hauler, operating out of the Long Beach Naval Shipyard, that was closed during the first Base Re-alignment and Closing Commision (BRAC) findings, and the truck, without further work, was eliminated. Dealing with the California DMV is nothing short of a pain in the ass. Absolutely no help at all except to state there was no way to reissue a title on a salvaged vehicle. It was good for parts only. That is basically the same thing that happens in Illinois when a "junk certificate" is issued on a vehicle. I know a couple of State Police investigators around here from their "visits" to the shop so I called one to ask some questions, (he very well knows about my old trucks) and was given a name and number to contact. After verification of what I was saying was true and correct, a form was produced allowing the state to issue a "bonded title" in my name. The precludes any claims against the title for 24 months after which there is no further recourse for any prior ownership. Kind of interesting in the process because this happens a lot with older cars and trucks pulled from a field that have sat for many years. There hardly is ever a title to be had. I have not received my package back from the Mack musuem as of yet. The v.i.n. number of this truck ends with 001 and I'm wondering if this is the first RL797L truck produced, and how many in total were built? Getting a little interested in the history although this one will stay as built. Rob