Rob

An upholstery shop can recover the dash pad for you. It is not that difficult if you have patience and know how to use a heat gun. A little patience and practice goes a long way. The heat gun will readily release the glue that holds the original covering and the foam can be left in place, repaired, then resprayed with glue, and reupholstered. More difficult sounding than it really is. I've got a couple of those cab back stowage containers and one is missing the lid, the other has a broken hinge which I will repair with a plastic welder. I've seen several trucks in the yards that have them so it should not be difficult to acquire one. Rob

If the truck has it's original drivetrain, that would be accurate as built. Rob

Hi Herb, great to hear from you again. I have entertained this idea as I have 4.10 ratio now. Running empty at 60mph and I will realize about 12.5 to 13mpg. If I truly make this a "single purpose vehicle" then changing the rear would be the best way to go, (probably a 4.88-5.13 range) but I still use it to run parts for the shop so what limited economy is delivered now, I would like to retain if possible. In all my years of hauling with a pickup I've never had to stop at scales, carried a log, or anything of the like pertaining to trucking. If I use one of my Macks in this same capacity, things would have to change. Many of these "treasures" that I bring home take much more than 11 hours behind the wheel to retrieve, so that is an issue in itself as my time does allow to "overnight" someplace most times. Thanks, Rob

I Like It. Would look great in my shop. Momma won't let me have it. Life is a bummer. The end. Rob

Hi there, they make an 22% underdrive unit also which is what I'm interested in. I need the low end reduction that I do not have now. Thanks, Rob

I like their literature writeup a bit better. I'm going to talk with them today. A customer of mine has this brand of unit in his motorhome and likes it very well. It is powered by a 460 Ford and C6 transmission. The combination is said to work well together. Thanks for the link, Rob

Has anyone had any experience with one of these units? I'm contemplating installing one into/onto my Dodge 1 ton pickup. The first gear, and fourth gears are too high for some of the heavy pulling that I do with the truck. To run around in it as a personal commuter vehicle is no longer an option as "Momma" says "no more" cause of the mileage. The engine is completely stock V-10 gas and makes 315hp and 483 ft. pounds of torque. the first gear reduction appears to be 2.45:1, (see link below) and is just not enough. I do not use the overdrive when loaded because it is .69:1 and the truck will not stay there. This vendor states that their unit can be shifted without letting off of the accelerator pedal also. I don't know about that but it's what they print. I'll be the first to admit my truck is operated beyond it's design limits. When I put a 21,000# truck on a goosneck trailer that weighs about 8000# empty, and pull it with my Dodge, it is heavier than the design criteria. I have done this and several other operations similar since I purchased the truck new in 1996. It has held up very well for 181,000 miles so far with no mechanical breakdowns. I do maintain it routinely though. Gear Vendors Link-Dodge: I've seen these things installed on motorhomes and campers, but never operated one myself. They can be a bit expensive, (about $3500.00) so figgered I'd ask a few questions first. Thanks, Rob

That would be awful tiresome to "crank that puppy over by hand" to get any work out of it. I know you meant a mechanical injection engine, not an electronic one. Rob

I agree Mike. I do like the caption on the hood next to the "V8" emblem that says "Comming Soon". Rob

Is your mate good at steering column relocation? That truck appears to have the wheel on the wrong side of the cab!! Just bullshitting, (as you know). That is a good looking workhorse to me. If you get a chance please post a couple of photos of the area in the hood and cowl where the air cleaner mounts to the left side of the truck. I have one that I'm wanting to mount twin 16" Donaldsons onto, and need a visual reference to go by. Thanks, Rob

This may sound obscure but it must work as I've used it a couple of times with success. You need to get that engine warm, very warm. I take a pump with the discharge attached to a water inlet, and outlet of the engine hooked to a water heater to pump and circulate water in the engine. A pump for a camper should suffice, but I use a small double diaphragm pump as these move a lot of water in a short period of time. A piece of rubber radiator hose clamped to an exhaust pipe that has a bung welded into the side and the end welded shut works well for inlet and discharge when clamped to the water pump inlet and upper outlet to what is normally the radiator. Turn the water heater all the way up and get the water flowing through the engine. You will hear the creaking going on as the engine expands internally. I would definately use a lubricant such as Dexron III to lessen the chances of scoring a liner, breaking rings, and/or destroying a ring land on a piston. Most home water heaters will heat to 200 degrees or so before the thermostat shuts the fuel off so turn it up! It's always a good idea to "douche" the engine internally with lubricant till the cylinders are full and let it drain into the pan a couple of days any way you look at it. Sure as hell won't hurt anything. It sounds like the engine has sat for a number of years or, water intrusion has happened. Most diesel engines I have been around will set for years before "freezing". Rob

vin number does not go with the truck type that is advertised, although it could be a fabricated truck. Nice looking unit but too "loud" for me. Rob

On some of the "newer" 92 series powered gensets, the intake air comes from roof penetrations and the exhaust exits out the sidewall. These have paper element air cleaners and are very quiet to stand next to when running at 1800 rpm. One does not absolutely need earmuffs. The alternators are most of the noise from cooling airflow. These generators produce between 63dbA to 69dbA when running at full load. All exhausts are wrapped in calcium silicate blankets to further dampen operational noise. All of the 71 series use engine mounted air cleaners, both oil bath, and dry element of Farr, Donaldson, Vortox, and Baldwin. There really is NO difference in noise, most engine rooms vary between 106dbA, and 115dbA sound pressure. In other words, "Hearing Protection Required". The exhaust on these engines are not wrapped. Rob

He was one of the criminals. Smaller dog, always wore a suit with a white chest and flat, white & black nose. Seems like he was always "kidnapping" Sweet Polly Purebred. Sent Underdog to the phone booth many times. Been almost 40 years since I've seen a single episode so my memory could be cloudy. Rob

"Riff-Raff". Now that was my favorite character on the Underdog Show from several years ago. Rob

Mean no disrespect but you are almost married to a Mack dealer with that series of truck for all but the most common of parts. Support is good for the MidLiner series but, the sources for aftermarket parts and suppliers are extremely limited. Those engines show up on ebay quite often. I had a CS-300 and it had a reman long block with the expense about twice what a Cummins, or Detroit engine replacement would cost. Those trucks are good, reliable units when taken care of, but very costly to repair major damage, and a block would be considered major damage, (to me). If it were me, I would look for a sound used engine that is complete. I've seen several on ebay through the years. Rob

Hi Scott. Both of my 4-71 series powered sets have SAE#1 flywheel housings attached to them. They also do not use a standard flywheel or flexplate although an automotive flywheel could readily be swapped over. The 6-71, and 6V-71 series engines also use SAE#1 flywheel housings. All of the larger "V" series engines use an SAE#00 housing in both the 71, and 92 series. I don't maintain anything newer than the 92's. I'm speaking solely of the Detroit powered sets there. All use an industrial flywheel of appropriate size for their respective housing(s), and are direct coupled to their alternators/generators. Most any transmission available in a medium duty chassis would work for you but I would stay with at least a five speed due to gear spread. The 4-71's are a fine engine but make an awful lot of noise for the power delivered without a very good silenced air cleaner. Rob

Hi Glenn, I agree. This one is just as loud as the other R model and can be felt through the clutch linkage into your foot. Is there any way to replace just the center plate, and driving dogs without the complete assembly? I've never seen the center plate sold separately myself. Thanks, Rob

Yes but you've got to watch those aviation pukes, (like me) also. Good bunch of guys above, and below the waves. I rebuilt the "Selectair" valve this evening after cleaning everything up using denatured alcohol and the "lube in a tube", (Navy term) to lubricate the new "O" rings and moving parts, All went back together just fine. It would still leak past the seals when the transmission was selected to reverse. Further T/S revealed the QR-1 valve on the transmission was defective, and I replaced the same with a new one on hand. The transmission now works flawlessly. Went out onto the road this eveing and ran to just about 60mph. Gonna have to get some new tires as these are out of round terrible from sitting so long. Stomping on the brake pedal hard will skid all ten tires easily. With the front limiting valve in the "on" position, the steer axle will not skid with the brake pedal floorboarded. Under hard braking, or panic stop, there is no pull to either side. The "grabbing" is completely gone now and the brakes are dependable, and predictable. All in all I'm happy. Now that this last problem seems to be conquered, think I'll pull the trans to either replace the clutch assy., or see if anything cab be done about the noise when the clutch pedal is depressed, along with replace, or adjust the clutch brake. Never did find out what the green stuff was; Maybe an "O" ring conditioner? Rob

I wouldn't be embarrassed at all. Had a job to do, took the risk to get it done. We've all made that call at times. Nobody got hurt, and you still have the hundreds of dollars it would have cost to get it moved by a rigger. Rob

We had a couple of guys in the Navy that could have probably used it as such. All these years I have thought the one was pissing in the others' ass cause his guts were on fire. Yes, I am a former squid. Rob

I've got this kit to rebuild the air selector on the shifter for my Mack 10 speed. There are no instructions and it is very easy to accomplish. Does anyone know what the stuff in the green tube is for? It does not smell like any type of solvent, and does not appear to be a lubricant. One end of the tube is for placing a drop like a precision oiler, the other just a large hole in the end of the tube. The white tube is silicone grease for the "O" rings. Thanks, Rob

Boss is kicking my ass out next week. Too much vacation time stored up he says. I'm planning on trying to get out of here on Tuesday morning at 7:00a.m. headed your way. I've got a new phone as I destroyed the other one, (again). I no longer have your phone number. Never taken apart an air valve before but do see where there are rebuild kits available. It is a PP1 series valve according to Bendix literature. I'll prolly look into getting this problem taken care of rather shortly. Rob