Rob

Looks like it could be worth working with. B81 Mack on ebay Rob

I've driven both and the concave back cab is easier to see out of to the rear for me. This is because of the elevation of the glass as you mention. I have to "duck" a little bit to comfortably view out the rear window of a standard cab. The one I drove was a B65 with a wrecker bed installed. You had to keep a eye on the winch drum to ensure proper spooling of the cable until tension took over. Rob

I built my building over the top of an existing one!! I think a farmer from the past had the runs constantly cause there was three of em on the two acres! Rob

My grandpa had two new B models in the 60's that were prototypes for the "Maxidyne" series of engine with five speed transmissions. They were both chrome grille shells, with gold bulldogs on the hood sides, and grille shells. This could have been an oddity as a "one off" situation too. The fire station on Lemay Ferry Road, just off of Reavis Barracks Road, (St. Louis, MO) had a B series with a chrome shell also that was installed on the truck when supplied new. I have two cousins that were stationed there when the truck arrived new, and they used that pumper a lot. I remember it well as I was a teenager when it was retired, (ten year rule). Admittedly, the trucks that I know of that were factory supplied with a chrome grille shell were either fire apparatus, or those two test beds. Rob

Maybe that's what I need, a little "make up air". Whenever the trap door in the floor is used, it usually smells like somebody done died in the shop. Make up air sounds like a good thing. Rob

You could have the truck built any way you wanted if your pockets were deep enough. Chrome radiator shells are available new, (or were) through Barry at the B model store. I've have my own replated and it isn't inexpensive. It is strictly a user preference. Rob

I was looking back through at some of the profiles of the membership and see that his last post was on August 23rd, and his last logon was October 2nd with no follow up. Don't suppose he took a job with his kid brother at the Volvo dealership in Memphis hawking their products do you???? Why that would be another "Day that will live in infamy". Guess me and other dog will have to reconvene another sizeable militia and march on Millington to straighten things out down that way. Rob

While I will agree with Packer if using the older "Budd" style taper seat, two piece stud pilot rims/hubs; I believe that a 1992 model year of truck will use the one piece retention nut, Hub Pilot, or "uniseat" mounting. One just needs to have adequate thread protrusion through the retaining nut for adequate clamping force to be applied. The rim center thickness determines the correct length of retaining stud required. Yes, length is important; Don't forget "girth", but that's another story. couldn't help myself, (reputation at stake). Rob

Most any tire and/or wheel vendor will be able to provide you that information. A lot of heavy truck parts vendors will be able to also. Rob

Maybe thinking real hard on what to tell the boss....... Rob

With experience and familiarization with the characteristics of your truck, you won't "scratch" gears very long till they will slide right in without noise. Don't never shove the clutch pedal to the floor unless you are dead still wanting to go into gear from neutral. Rob

Looks like a "cookie cutter" Pete to me. I prefer the "restyled and customized" version. Like this; As I can make more money with them:

Mike, attached may be the same print you have, and it has always worked for me. The larger switch located to the right of the new switch is long discontinued, and was referred to as the "845" switch, as the last three numbers in the part number corresponded with this. If you change the diagram to reflect a positive ground system by marking the battery posts opposite of what they are on the print and then wire accordingly, your problem will be solved unless the switch is damaged internally. The upper diagram shows the switch in an engaged position with the batteries in a series state, supplying 24VDC to start the truck. The lower diagram shows the switch in a disengaged position with the batteries in a parallel state supplying 12VDC for normal electrical operation of the truck. One can see this by the position of the contact disc(s) internal to the switch assy. The broken lines are circuit electrical flow, and internal connections of the switch. I would replace those battery cables with new if affordable. They are at the end of their useful service life going by the physical condition that I see. I use plenty of dry grease on my electrical terminals to seal out contaminants also. If you have the guts to tackle this, you have the smarts to fix it. Rob

Hi Joe, I have no knowledge that I know of; Sometimes I guess good. I was referring to your statement that you would plan to replace the driveline, and furthered the assumption that the front fenders did not exist, or were in unusable condition. This cites they are physically not installed on the truck in the supplied photo. These items will be costly if needed to be purchased. Don't get me wrong, that truck is DEFINATELY worth working with as I would if it were mine. The lean I referred to could quite possibly road crown, (or camber as referred) and/or parallax error from the camera angle. It does look as the frame horn on the driver's side of the truck would measure closer to the bottom or the grille surround than the other side but then again the photo could be subjected to induced error. I'm not ruling out that my judgement may be off. I'm usually 1/2 bubble off level anyways. Rob

Always enjoyable to hear a story end like this. We all make mistakes, we're human. It's how we make it right that matters. Rob

I wonder if any of our Aussie friends would be interested in a "group buy" of the bubble back mirrors. The cost as I suspected is considerably less than can be obtained down under although I do not know the shipping amount yet. I'm sure it would be cost advantageous to ship several in a box and have them reshipped once in OZ than individual piece count. I wouldn't mind helping you guys out if you would like. You can contact my via pm if you want to remain private; Or my email is mrcuda4spd@yahoo.com. Rob

I would get under the truck and trace/follow, then label the battery cables to ensure your known starting point. If you are attaching cables incorrectly; Problems will arise. Without known reference, you are quite likely "shooting in the dark". I believe your problem is minor, and the solution is near. Just don't give up. Rob

I've got a diagram stored on an old computer. I can't find the original paper copy I'd thought had been retained. Rob

Awww Shucks there Morgan. This dirt floored, drafty, converted outhouse that I'm forced to endure with suits and works just fine for me, and now you go play "one upmanship". I feel like I'm suckin hind tit. I would go with 8" single wall pipe exiting from the rear of the firebox with a "T" at the rear just before the transisition from horizontal run to vertical. This will allow a cleanout for maintenance. In the vertical run, continue with 8" pipe, but do incorporate a forced air "heat reclaimer" to extract further BTU's from the exhaust stream. Upon the transition from vertical back to horizontal and through the wall penetration, use a class "B" type coupling. At this point you can either continue vertical, or terminate with a birdscreened exhaust hood. Given your parameters of not warming the space constantly, I would choose a heating unit that will deliver approximately 175,000 BTU, (input capacity). My calculations given a properly insulated structure require approximately 100,000 BTU to properly heat the space but you will want a rapid warmup, hence the uprating. Circulator fans mounted close to the ceiling with downrods will help to conserve on fuel consumption. It is hard to convey which type of fuel you should use to heat with. Wood has it's own drawbacks with the cutting, stockpiling, stacking, and the like. Coal is much the same, as is corn pellets. Propane, or natural gas is the least intrusive as once it is installed, it requires virtually no maintenance. Now I must go think of what I need to do to draw even with you. At least I've still got the indoor restroom, (trap door in the floor) and plumbing, (creek under the floor). Rob

Ahhhh, taking the "stripped splines approach" I see. Is this the rear axle they pulled apart to reseal? Did "they" have that yoke off to do the repair and reuse the same nut? Big No No if they did. Rob

The front fenders if not available or salvageable will be expensive. I also envision quite a bit of expense to be incurred if following through on your stated plan with this unit. This is especially true if you do not have the spare parts in current inventory. As far as rust: With a mechanics inspection mirror and flashlight look into both of the rear cab corners at lower points. Also above the headliner across the front, sides, and rear of the cab for rust and deterioration where the roof, cab outer, and cab inner panels are spot fastened together. These are very commom rust areas. The doors are very straight forward. Usually if you can see rust on the outer side, it is much worse on the inner structure. It also appears the cab and front end are "leaning" towards the driver's side on that chassis. This could be as little as cab mouting insolators being bad, or rust in the mounting strutures which would be much worse. Good luck with your project! Rob

Not at this time. You are safe, (for now). But, Be careful; Use prudent judgement. I'm keeping a watchful eye out to keep you on the straight and narrow. Best advice I can give: Do not drive a Peterbilt. I am cognizant of your feelings and do not wish to impact them negatively. Rob

Glenn, the FSS is still there and functioning. If you thought service was bad then; I understand it has deteriorated further. The remainders are sub contracted to Lockheed-Martin for operations and for the most part managed remotely. I don't work with them at all. The closest FSS to me was located at Decatur, IL but has been closed for several years now. Rob

I would agree Herb but never thought about that as the cause until you mention it. The transmission mount bisquits are beat out also. The truck really jerks, or hops upon engagement of the clutch in starting to roll. I've always known it needs a clutch assy but have done nothing yet. Thanks, Rob

Hi Glenn, that field would be an FBO, (Fixed Base Operated) airport. It is not controlled federally. All of the facilities, approach lights, radios, etc. are maintained/inspected/calibrated by us, but actual operation of the airfield is a private affair. Sometimes the operators can be real jerks. That field is serviced out of the Moline, IL office. I've never been there myself, but heard of it. Rob