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Mr. Bill

Puppy Poster
  • Content Count

    13
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About Mr. Bill

  • Rank
    First Gear
  • Birthday 04/28/1955

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
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  • ICQ
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NE Indiana
  • Interests
    Mack R600 tractors<br />Farming<br />Guns<br />Radios (ham, CB, shortwave, vintage AM/FM, all types)<br />Early days of manufacturing

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    R600
  • Year
    1969
  • Other Trucks
    1966 IH CO 4000 1972 IH Loadstar
  1. Well, that sounds better than what I got out of the book. I will try it today and see what happens. I read where the clutch brake was used to stop the gears from turning. Didn't connect that that was for setting still. Thanks HK and Macks. This helps me out. I like my Mack but don't know to much about it yet. Sure glad to find fellas like you to that know.
  2. I have a 69 R685T that grinds and won't shift into 4th and 5th. Transmission is a 5 speed not synchronized. Downshift is impossible. Heres the history. Installed new clutch plates, pressure plate, bearing and had flywheel machined. Put together and adjusted to what the book says with 1/8 inch clearance on the throw out bearing and the clutch brake at about 1 to 2 inches from the floor. It shifted when I drove it home but after repairs it will not downshift or shift into 4th or 5th. The clutch brake I can feel presssure through the pedal so it is engagine. The plate also has about 1/8 inch lining on it. Any ideas ???
  3. Can anyone tell me what the air connections are for an E3 basic brake valve for a 1968 Mack R-685T single axle tractor? I did the dumb thing of disconnecting and didn't take notes. Now a year later I don't remember. Should have taken a picture. Got it figured out today so problem solved.
  4. I just had this on my 69 R. I tried soaking it but didn't work. Both the pin for the pedal and the plunger were stuck. To keep piece of mind I just took it apart and cleaned them up and greased them. If it is bad enough to stop working it may well happen again when you don't want it to. After taking mine apart I was glad I did.
  5. I cannot find anywhere on the internet the specifications for torque for the flywheel nuts. Also, can the safety wires be replaced with cotter keys with no ill effects? This is a 1969 R600 with 5 speed and 675 engine. Can anyone help?
  6. Thanks to everyone who helped with the engine. It would have been a diseaster without everyone's input. This forum has been great !
  7. Was the ENDT675 a turbo? The engine in the truck says Maxidyne and has a turbo
  8. I looked in this spot but did not find any numbers. I did notice that the cast date on most of the castings were in 1969 so I am thinking this is not the original engine. Are there any other ways to ID the engine short of a teardown?
  9. Incidentally, when you have the flywheel machined the drive pins have to be removed. When you reinstall the drive pins, use a small machinist's square and be sure the drive pins are installed perfectly straight, or the center plate will bind on the pins and your clutch may not release properly. Thanks for the info. I guess I didn't look at it close enough to figure that part out. Makes sense though. I do remember the center plate being locked in place.
  10. The flywheel was removed safely today. Thanks to everyone who replied with information and cautions. It took about 5 minutes. The best thing was that I got to get a 3/4 inch impact. That made short work of the castle nuts. The clutch shop mentioned something about an easy pedal. I will go with that even though it costs a bit more. They will turn the flywheel and assemble the new clutch plates, middle plate and pressure plate to check for proper clearances. I will have to get the new pilot and throw out bearings. Does anyone know how these clutches work? It seems that that there is still only one surface of a clutch plate connecting with the flywheel and the second one doesn't do anything. I am missing something here so could someone please explaing. Thanks again to everyone and I am sure I will have more situations that I need advice.
  11. I am new to Mack and big trucks. I purchased a 1968 R 685T last year and finally got time to work on it now. It needs a clutch so I have pulled the transmission (5 speed) back and removed the pressure plate. I was surprised to see two clutch plates in there. How does that set up work? There is still only one clutch face pressed against the flywheel. The clutch shop says they need the pressure plate, middle plate, two clutch plates, and the flywheel. My problem now is the flywheel. I am not sure what they want. There are bolts around the outside of the flywheel and also in the middle there are 6 castle nuts. I tried the castle nuts but could not get them loose. Can anyone tell me what I need to remove so they can turn the clutch face?
  12. I looked around the injector pump mount on the casting and didn't see anything for numbers. The paint looks like a light enough coat on the casting that a hand stamp should show through. I will remove what paint is there and see if it is there though to make sure.
  13. I have a 1968 R685T truck. I am trying to identify the engine. I has a casting number of 239GB5320 A. So far I believe this number converts to a 673-711 model engine. From here, I know nothing about the engine cubic inch, torque and etc. It does have a turbo charger. Can anyone fill me in on the particulars of this engine and if it was available in 1968?
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