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j hancock

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Everything posted by j hancock

  1. Hope the conversation goes well today. Very few people can say they own a Big Al. Did you ever buy the shed you went to look for? You might be sleeping in it! Jim
  2. One wild Sat. night on the island!
  3. Good Stuff! LMAO! I was worried the burning was from hanging around naughty girls. Or there was another fire in your neighborhood.
  4. Yes indeed, service with a smile.... I would change both filters. Fairly easy to do and then take a little spin and see if mileage changes. Maybe also visit the water separator and do a little maint if so equipped. Does it seem like there is more smoke out the pipe than before? Is there a brake that "hung up" and is now trying to slow you down? I have used Lucas and it seems ok. I figured once that the money I saved on fuel was offset by the purchase price of the Lucas additive. So, sort of a wash. On another vehicle it did seem to help clean the crap out of the system. So, that was a plus. Jim
  5. There are three gaskets for the window. One gasket has a rib that goes into the groove on the window frame and the tail of this gasket will contact the sheetmetal of the cab. It will have to be trimmed on a 45 for the corners and trimmed where the corner reinforcement of the frame is located so everything will lay flat. Put this gasket on the frame and then put the frame in the cab opening. Then you will have to screw the frame to the cab. It takes about 10 screws or so per frame. The second gasket goes into the aluminum frame and this will receive the glass. It is sort of an L shape. Will have to be trim in the corners like before. Now you put the glass into this rubber and it will just sit there. The third gasket is sort of a rounded taper shape that goes all the way around and the square section locks the glass into the aluminum frame. The taper will show when done. Use soap such as DL or a pumice free GoJo to help lubricate the rubber when trying to insert the key of the first gasket into the frame. Soap isn't needed too much for the other gaskets. Also, when installing the first gasket DON"T stretch it out or when you try to cut the 45 in the corners it will pull back leaving a gap. It will seem tempting to stretch but it will screw you up!!! Use a little 3M black weatherstrip adhesive on the 45's. There is no need to use w/s adhesive on anything else. Just a little at the 45's Hope this might help. Jim
  6. Good Deal! Hope the other side is ok also. It is time to play with the racecar anyways. As a a wise man once said, Keep it simple stupid and don't make it more complicated than it really is. Remember racecar spelled backwards is racecar. Jim
  7. Hello RH, Can't answer the question for you. Everything I have is 8 1/4 tubeless. With regards to spacers, Euclid and Meritor both have info on the web so you can match up the spacers width and rim clamps. Different spacers take certain depth rim clamp to keep everything secure. I had a truck that was a mix and match special and caused plenty of wobble and bounce. After getting everything matched up properly made lots of difference. Jim
  8. Could be the same Rob. I never looked into it for sure because all I have are spokes. I was just "ass"uming that Dayton and Budd probably wouldn't interchange. Still can't find the paperwork for the one I bought but the casting has WF1 1168 WEBB 68897 REV. cast into it. Also, thinking about it again. This drum was too wide for my setup but all other specs were good so it was put into a lathe to make it match what was taken off in depth and profile for the backing plate. Jim
  9. Looks like you were visiting Dave at Aran Trading to pick up that truck. I wonder what happened to the trailer that was with it? Jim
  10. "Course I've also found that clean equipment attracts Suffolk and NY DOT." That sucks! I would think having nice clean equipment, they would let you pass by. They should chase down the trucks that aren't washed and look like they are behind in maint. Jim
  11. Put the Cummins in and paint it purple like the A/C and confuse the heck out of everyone. Agreed, very interesting find with those specs. Hmmm....might have to go "shed" shopping more often.
  12. Sometimes new ones show up on ebay. Never checked into pricing to see if it is any sort of deal. Jim
  13. No serial number. 1972 is painted on the air cleaner and that also what I have in my notes. When it changed to grey in color, it was recabbed at that point.
  14. I know the previous two owners but don't know who owns it now. It is still in MA but the cab is grey with the leading edge of the hood and fenders in black. Looks like the picture was taken at the Rutland Truck show when it was being held at Giddings Manufacturing in Pittsford, VT.
  15. Should be 23,000. On B61X, there was a 29,000 rear but that was for heavy duty lowbed work, etc.
  16. Slide under the truck on the driver's side and there is a flat pad in the case where the trans info will be stamped. Might take a minute to clean it so it can be read. I try to write info like that in a small notebook and keep it in the glove box if needed in the future. Jim Have somebody with you in case the truck flips over!
  17. WHAT?? Buy an Overwidth banner! You have got to be kidding me! There goes the profit margin on this haul...... Looks like a good score. The tedder is similiar in concept to Grimm made in Rutland, VT. Jim PS. Maybe you could buy the banner at auction.
  18. I looked up the address for the museum on the web. The Mack Trucks Historical Museum Don Shumaker, Curator 2402 Lehigh Parkway South Allentown, PA 18103 Yes, indeed a nice piece of history to hang onto. Jim
  19. Hey Mark, Found a picture of the company that bought my father's business. They were out of Quincy, MA. This picture was taken about 1977 when he still had interest in the property. The trailer may have been one of ours repainted and I think the Loadstar on the far right was a repaint as well. Jim
  20. I used a lever repair kit from Mac's Ford parts. #01A-7022938 $14.95/kit need one kit per door. The studs are swedged onto a u bracket. I seperated the stud from the bracket and the installed it into the Mack vent window. I had a little material left so i swedged it back on then I zapped it with a MIG to make sure it didn't move. Then the glass can be installed. If your chrome is good, steps will be needed to keep it protected from welding heat and spatter. I also purchased new levers 01A-7622916/7 $54.50 pr. because mine all had been broken with the stud inside. These levers have a little push button lock vs the non-locking originals. I did a little figuring and I think that (maybe) original levers can be used with new studs. Jim
  21. Could be, I can't tell for sure in the photo. But there is misalignment. When the trans comes down, everything else can be inspected.
  22. There is an inspection port on the top of the bell. The floorboards have to come out to get there.
  23. Wasn't that some kind of auction on ePay for those vent windows? Providing the guy didn't have gun to his head, he was ok with paying the price. Even the notorious broken lever and stud can be overcome with a little skill and patience. Jim
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