sdthoren

Located in SE Washington State, more detail and photos in the links. 1968 RL773LST, black, 8V71, 5&4, prior dump truck, $3500 OBO, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/721628047133522/ 1985 RWL766LST, maroon glider w/ spare cab & hood, $2500, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2835334819985656/ (Probably one of the last Superliner I's built at Macungie) 1986 RW713, blue, 3406B spruced up less than 20k miles ago, 10 speed Fuller, air ride, OBO, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2002613527154636/ 1987 RW653, gray/green, just rebuilt 3406B, 15 speed fuller, Mack top loaders with Neway air ride, OBO, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1070052128346953/ Transport across the US is expensive, I'm way out west... Black and maroon would need to be hauled, no concerns driving the blue one, would have concern with the radiator on the gray/green one for long distances.

99% sure that's a Mack axle, lots of Mack part/model numbers cast into it. Seems like Meritor bought out Rockwell years ago, who did build a lot of front and rear axles in the US. They are continuing the Rockwell line as well as new stuff, but have been supplying parts for other brands as well. Recently noticed Meritor (not sure all or part) got bought out by Cummins.

I'm seeing 18k # weight capacity from a parts catalog/pdf (PB-8951).

That's what I've seen in the Mack manuals I have.

I had a similar issue while transferring a title on an old truck in Washington State. I found a prior registration in the truck that had scale weight information on it. The clerk accepted that during the title transfer. Cost to tow it to a scale for weight purposes is going to pale in comparison to transport costs from Ohio to Washington though...

This is likely a newer version, but if you find a control module in a junkyard, may be able to adapt it. KYSOR ALARMS SERVICE AND INSTALLATION.pdf

I think that is an example of an AI generated description. Flowery words and it doesn't quite capture the details correctly.

I have a western RWL766 Super Liner I with a steel front section and aluminum frame. Can't get pics to attach, but can get some if needed.

Seems like the CPL (control parts list?) is a key piece of info that can narrow some of those details. I have an older cpl book, been a while since I looked at it.

OK, thanks...looking for the lower right front fiberglass piece and grill parts in that area as well.

@The Rubber Duck 006 Curious if your boss is interested in selling some of the MH cab parts? If so, I'm looking for trim piece around the shifter, center console on top of dash, HVAC controls plate, center vent assembly (including shroud behind dash).

Thanks guys - halo test was good, although with the extended oil change setup, there's a lot of oil there! Break over spring didn't have any slop - directly working the lever (vs linkage from pedal) didn't indicate any dead spots where the spring wasn't tight. I didn't work on the truck much since Friday. I'm trying to minimize any low rpm/idle time on the engine as well (due to unknown engine break in after in frame). So I'm gathering troubleshooting ideas to maximize benefit of run time. Chasing some cooling system issues as well. Lot of reliability things creep in when a truck sits for several years (or a decade!). Thanks again for all the advice and input!

All right, all six injectors checked out/cleaned up/corrected. Fuel inlet tubes 4, 5 and 6 "adjusted" to line up correctly on the pump. Definitely plan to replace them, they were in rough shape before my work over, they certainly aren't any better now... Truck does run a LOT better with no fuel seeping out turbo/exhaust connection. Still have the surge right after start up, even before it gets warm - fjh and/or jojo, is the throttle lever breakover spring shown in the photo? I'm not counting out a worn or sticky governor though, it sat for a number of years. Will try your idea of getting the truck unlevel and see if the surge goes away h67st. The truck supposedly had an in-frame done and what looks like new heads. Ran like crap and prior owner started to work on it, but didn't get it done. So I'm unraveling some of the history, but concerned a break-in was not done and that I might wash down cylinder walls. Going to check if any local shops can put it on a dyno - I don't have a trailer/load to put on it for a proper break in.

Thanks guys, seems I'm battling a couple problems here. Going to verify injectors are decent (1), find new/used tubes or "adjust" existing to fit correctly (2), and then (3), see if my surge problem is still present after that. Kinda surprised it was running with that drastic of timing problems on cylinders 4-6!!

I took a picture and did some markup to help show what I'm talking about, although you are tracking jojo. I've got injectors 1-3 at the shop getting pressure/pattern checked, so the tubes are loose at the pump. It's the 4-6 positions that are definitely hand bent. It appears my turbo comes out straight, others seem to kick up and have more room underneath to run tubes. I attached a pic of an E6 4 valve from the interweb (although you can't see turbo well in my pic). Thanks, Scott