MACKS

I'm sorry I see now that you said there is no vent on the driver side tank, the fuel cap should be vented so check the cap to see if its working.

Sounds like the air vents on the fuel tanks are pluged up, I would say the driver side is definetly pluged and it's forcing the fuel to the other tank.

I,ve been using mack oil in my dumps 83 and 90 RD, some of my friends are using delvac they say it's better and I know its cheaper, delvac says it's good for a million miles, lots of companys using shell but I don't know any one useing exxon mobil. What about black bear I see some guys using it does any one here know anything about it.

Keep the push rods in order so you can put them back the way they came out, the injectors should have numbers stamped on them for the cyl. they go to.

The six nuts in the center, you might have to heat them a little if there is thread lock on them, be ready when you pull it off, it's a heavy hunk of steel, as for the clutch and pressure plate I would buy a new one get the easy peddle.

I replaced the rubber under the fuel tank straps on my 83 rd and I'm pretty sure I got it at mack.

Sounds like it's not getting fuel, if the puff limiter is not hooked up it should be smoking like a freight train with thick black smoke.

Ive owned a few trucks with the 237 it's a sweet runing motor and has a lot of power also very good on fuel. A lot of people say it's the best motor mack ever made .

I would say at least 25 hundred for both heads, that should inclued valve adjustment and to retouque the head bolts, Good Luck!

Looks like fun, you should of put a set of wheelie bars on the back LOL!

rsmartyn, I'd be happy if it went down to 2.70 in ny but I don't think thats gonna happen, in fact I don't think we will ever see that number again.

It's back to 3.00 a gallon in new york and rising. what are you guys paying and where?

Why are you guys talking about a clutch brake to shift a tranny? Neaver engage the the clutch brake while the truck is moving, The clutch brake is only for when your at a dead stop, If your drive shaft is turning the gears in the tranny are turning and you can't stop them with the clutch brake.

I had my 83 RD inspected by a mack dealer today and when I went to pick it up they only did the saftey insp and said I no longer need the emissions test becuse my truck is so old lol.My question is what about road side insp and dot, can they still give me the test and a summons if it doesent pass I would think not but I'm not sure. I might as well put more fuel to it if I dont have to worry about it.This is in New York State, what do you guys think?

It's hard to believe until you see it with your own eyes, how a peice of hardend steel the size of trunion can snap like a twig. Ive even saw a few brake from 58 rears!

Glad to hear that, did you notice if you engine brake works any better? it should have a little more stoping power.

All mack engines with the dynatard cam have to have the valves adjusted at tdc, the marks on the damper look like a saw cut on the outside edge of the damper, if you cant find them you can make your own, first find the timing degree marks and at top dead center line just go over it with a piece of chalk and write 1and 6 then going clockwise 120 degrees make another line and mark 3 and 4 then another 120 degrees mark 5 and 2, when you done with your art work the three lines should be evenly spaced. to get number 1 on tdc of the compression stroke open the injector line for number 1 at the pump then bar the engine and watch for the line with number 1 and 6 when it comes up the timing pointer if you get a squirt of fuel your all set if not go around again, when you get number 1 up adjust the valves for that cylinder then turn the damper till number 5 comes up to the pointer and adjust the valves for the number 5 cylinder and keep going till your done. It's a pain in the butt to do but it's worth doing it right. Have fun!!

Push down on the back side of the rocker to make sure its tight against the push rod, is this a 2 valve or a 4 valve and do you have an engine brake. clean your vibration damper of and look close it should have three sets of marks spaced at 120 deg one mark for cyl 1 and 6 one for cyl 3 and 4 and one for cyl 2 and 5 start with number 1 on tdc on the compression stroke then rotate in normal direction to get number 5 at tdc then do the same for 3-4-6-2. the valves must be adjusted at tdc on the compresson stroke. If the cam was broke I don't think it would run at all..

You have to adjust the valves in firing order with each piston at TDC, look for the marks on you vibration damper the firing order is 153624 make sure you push down on the back of each rocker when you adjust it. Good Luck

I would fix it now it's only gonna get worse, it's not a big job and the seals don't cost that much, if the dealer gives you a crazy price just do it your self, if you don't have a seal installation tool try to borrow one or buy one, if you do any work on you truck such as brakes you will be glad you bought it.

I just picked one up on e-bay for 50 bucks for one of my rd's I see them on there once in a while, if your not in a rush check it out.

I don't have the number of hand but look up ram welding or alloy metal works there right next to each other off rt 110 and do very good work. By the whay I sometimes work for south fork asphalt out your way maybe whele meet up one day.

LITrucker, where are you from, when I see LI I think of Long Island NY if so I know of some one who makes fuel tanks.

It's really very simple, the maxi can has to seprate chambers one is for parking and one is for service, the parking brake chamber has a very strong spring behind the diaframe, when you aplpy the parking brake it exhausts the air from that chamber and the spring then applies the brake, the service brake side only works when you step on the brake peddle.

Thank you very much Rob for all that info, once I get into it and see how bad it is I'll more than likley do it the way you did, Thanks Again