Vladislav

Bob, is that steering box a PS or just mechanical? Those are two almost different stories.

Ok, I have a couple of cents to throw into the ring. No theory (it's a late time at me so I'm not leaned toward thinking much) I have two different starters on two different (old) Macks which did DIFFERENT changing polarity. One was installed on 1944 NM-model with 707 EY gasser. When I purchased the truck one of my guys put a battery on it after which I fired up the engine and drove the truck off a trailer and to my yard. The next day when I started investigating the things myself I found out my helper put the chassis wire to the negative terminal of the battery (he just didn't keep in mind existing of the positive ground system). But the truck could drive as I said and I found no hurt to generator or other electrical components. The 2nd starter is for my NR-model with 519 ED Lanova diesel. It's 24V motor which operates with series-parallel setup. I rebuilt that starter and before putting it onto the engine I got to figuring on which terminal to connect to which polarity. Just tested both ways and found out DIFFERENT direction of rotation. Of what I noted two starters had different design. The diesel one had 4 brushes and both armature and housing magnets were wire coils. The one on the gasser was not investigated by me (since it's on the truck and works) but as I recall at the moment I saw 6 brushes inside it.

Hope they will work for you. I kept my eye on them for a long while. But my actual need was just the rubber bushings since my metal parts were Ok. And with current headaches to ship to my place I figured I'd live without 'em.

Thanks the great Gentlemen! Now I just need a bit of time to read the text in those manuals to be completely prepped for biting the bullet. Illustrations may work faster though. Hope to have the thing apart the other day. Relating to the manuals my wheel looks as a kind of FW2000 but with two jaws and "C-pinion" at the cab side. Probably some modification or maybe a differently named model. But I hope general design is the same for many models. There may be an issue identifying replacement parts though but I use to double check suiteness by fitting sizes etc. I will post the results as soon as I have all the pieces blown separately. Even if I get being one legged by the plate fallen onto my foot

I was going to give a better life to a fifth wheel for my R-model. Such as revision of worn parts, sandblast, paint etc. Finally found a bit of time (and a guy who was eager to play the game), so pulled it off the weeds and pretty soon found myself scratching my head. I sure understand everything could be taken apart over it but with presence of high stressed springs and very function of the jugs to lock something I felt worry to hit a hammer here and there. So there's quite easy (to my understanding) question: where to start the work from, which way to continue and what to avoid? Also I'd like to know the particular model of this wheel. Tried to identify by Google search but haven't had much luck soon enough. Thanks in advance.

Check out this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254447800537 Worth to request a couple of measurements from the seller such as the stud and the rod thread sizes. Overall it looks very close to what you're looking for.

Pretty interesting subject to discuss, thanks for lifting it up. Honestly I don't remember hearing about those crytical speeds in the past but the effect sure makes sence. My guess older day's engeneers were familiar with that. Otherwise they wouldn't design shafts with intermediate carrier at all. Probably the road speeds were less in those days, especially for trucks. Vlad

Yes, she's pretty interesting. And making mooth water.

Tom, do you need any donation to cover the expences on the car's battery to drive to Gladis to pic up the computer to take the show pics from your camera to post on here? Ohh, sorry. Right at the mement I'm the man who's splitted from making international money transfers.

Cool! She's looking nice on the road!

Very nicely done! Honestly it's difficult to comment an item I well know I wouldn't do better than it already is.

Interesting. Thanks for pointing out the details. I don't remember those red Superdogs. Here's what I found in the gallery. But that's #110, not the #103

Yup! Looks like you had a nice time at the show judging by the pics. Coming home after a pleasant event adds powers to fight rutine affairs.

The barrel smoker seems serving pretty fine. Neat dark blue B-model at the last pic. And many thanks for sharing Tom! A pleasure to see sitting on a sofa on the other side of the globe.

I belive he's one guy who recently claimed he has never heard of Macungie show... Ok, he used to have a firetruck with Waukesha engine.

This was posted on BMT at a certain time. The file name is "post- ...." Could be found using the search tool on the site but I haven't got any luck making a try.

Ok, and say Hello to Zina!

As DCW said above! And thanks for pointing the relationship between these two nicknames! And thanks for the cool truck pictures!!!

I have seen it as a printed poster hanging on a wall at one's Mack enthusiast place. Unfortunately I'm currently not able to go there check in.

That Malo mixer on DMM chassis must be driven from Quebec if I'm not lost in geography. Pretty sure it belongs (belonged?) to a fleet of one of our fellow members. Any info on the Superdogs behind it?

That place near the driveway to Macungie factory makes me wonder. The trucks parked there get newer every few years. Never saw anything like that in different places. If you buy a rig and have it in your yard it keeps being the same style and just getting older!

Me either. To my understanding truck chassis must be the most sturdy element in a rig and making it of multiple sections seems as engeneering... Ok, a compromize). I know in many countries any split connection of frame reals within the wheelbase is illegal. But here we talk about that made by respectable companies and the design seems working well. Strange world!

Mark, I still count myself as a rookie. Even not sure I'd say how many bolts in a frame any particular RW-model has... The pics are from the web. I just use to collect images which have relation to a subject of my interest. The 1st one is a RW chassis which was advertized for sale at some known place in NH. The 2nd was an ad either where that front chassis portion was auctioned (and I have my elbow bitten I couldn't arrange purchase of it). The 3rd one was posted by one of our fellow members alnong with a few more wiews of his project. Aside of those I have a few (hundreds) of pics I have taken personally from under trucks at truck shows and by other ocassions. Just posted the ones which represented the subject the best.

No Paul. That's 1st generation pre '85 thingy. Pretty sure it's a design feature of Hayward factory judging by its use on Superliner and Cruiseliner models which both were Hayward products originally. 2nd generation Superliner used almost different chassis probably originally designed for a MH which came into production in late '84. Than RWII have taken it also about '85 (I'm not ready to tell the exact month it came into the market, some guys may know that better). That frame has solid steel rails front to rear with fashioned portion at the front. Was avalible of 1/4" thickness for MH and RW600 and 3/8" for RW700. Could be doubles with inner rails etc. There was an option either with the same style steel front portion and aluminium straight rails bolted where the rear engine mounts took place. That's the design the guys mentioned in the comments above. Crawling under trucks and investigating chassis style (and possible ways of combining and repair) is my personal addiction. Its roots grow from modelbuilding of earlier years

The one on the pic is off a Granite or CL. Original RW one has ends with taper at the bottom.