Geoff Weeks

That was the name I was looking for!

What are the symptoms? I have 80+ year old hydorvac's and they still work. You have to bleed them in the correct order, or they may not function properly as air gets trapped around the vacuum control valve if it isn't bled 1st. Also another "must" is a check valve in the vacuum supply between engine and hydrovac. It keeps combustible gases from being drawn into the hydrovac when the engine is shut down

https://powerbrakes.com/hydrovacs/bendix/ https://www.accupart.com/vacuum-brakes/bendix-type/hydrovac/?page=4

Not the way I read it. 4 six volts to make up 12volts so two sets in series the sets in parallel. Truck is 12 volt.

I drove from Gillette,WY to Illinois on the front with the interaxle driveshaft out. I was loaded but not to the max GVW.

From what I remember before deleted, he was driving in the local area where the previous owner had it. The latest from him before delete was he made the 3 hr trip with new batteries, so last posted it was not at his place of business.

If you are asking if I am, no! However a 40 year old cooling system that has been neglected to the point it takes 8 flushes to clear it is most likely. Water pump pull is easy, but I would be surprised that a water pump alone would cure the problem. The age of the radiator has not be established to my knowledge, but if more than a few years old, it would be suspect. Human nature to look for the easy solution, but a well maintained will be clear inside after years of running. One that isn't will be gooky, this one is (or was) gooky.

More likely to be plugged tubes in the radiator, with a history of 8 flushes to get the clear water.

A 12V71 was 450hp or slightly less than 2 6-71's (238 hp). The 855 Cummins was up to 475 hp in Big Cam but 400-450 was the best configuration. When it went electronic (N-14) power was much higher. That said, in its time period it was one of the highest Hp engines people stuck in trucks, originally it was done as a industrial engine re-power, and later it may have been factory for turnpike doubles and the north slope oil field. Never operated or worked on one. The K Cummins (which I have worked on) was a better big power option. but $$$

All I can say, a year later, is the P/O is one of the most understanding I've ever seen. If I sold something and it was still on my property, either you would be paying rent, or it would be re-sold, or hauled for scrap. Sorry, but I think that must be said. About a year ago, you had said you were going to have it towed. Put it on a low-boy with over height permits if needed and get it where you can work on it, or cut your losses and move on.

You have enough there to take to a fab shop and have him make you one, either out steel or aluminum, steel would be cheap and easy.

4"x 15" is the common size. I'd give Vanderhaag's a call and see what that one is. One down! They may or may not, have another for the other side.

On my '42 all the original switches and pull cables were replaced with modern stuff. My '48 is all original. Replacement cab for the '42 has most of the orginal switches but one of the pull cables is gone.

Military and diplomatic families abroad are citizens of the country that their parents are. Yes, children born to parents that don't fit those two exceptions are considered citizens in most countries. Otherwise, none of us would be US citizens. Somewhere in your past and mine, our relations came from elsewhere, and their offspring became US citizens, If not we all would be citizens of where our ancestors came from! The law is clear, if born here, and subject to US law (not diplomatic or guest military who are NOT subject to US law) then you are a citizen. "Sins of the father" don't get put on the shoulders of the offspring. How do you know how a kid born today will vote when they become of age? Most peoples views come about during their maturing, and it is impossible to guess how someone will vote 18 years in the future, regardless of their parents view.

Using the factory headlight switch (delco) ? I have a back-up on a switch but I am looking into what it would take for a switch on the shift rail. Have you done that or just manual switch like I have?

Little seaching came up with this: https://vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=25343018 Newer type brake "S" cam but might bolt in place of what you have now. "T" brakes were obsolete over 30 years ago, so finding new replacements might be impossible. Used might be the best chance, or converting to something more modern. edit: blowing up your picture, it may be an S cam that you have. So that is one found. What size brakes do you have?

I believe what you have is a Rockwell "T" brake. At least it looks like the "T" I had on my '89 Cabover. What I don't know is if the backing plates are universal or the backing plate is unique to the Mack axle it is on (If you do have a Mack axle and not a vendor supplied axle). Rockwell Brakes, Field Maintenance #4.pdf https://midwestwheel.com/marketing/08Brake-Shoe-ID-Chart-and-Air-Disc-Brake-ID/#zoom=true

From and old post.

Well you are dealing with something old and odd ball. If the adjusters are worn but serviceable, then they go back in, if they can't be cleaned up and serviceable, or the teeth on the wheel are badly worn, then you'll need a machine shop to copy the old parts, and make new. I have done that before, and as long as the machine shop is good, can be the best bet. I had to have a part made for an adjuster on my Saab, which has the hand brake on the front caliper. Grand total for 2 adjusters was $70. Other would swap out the front and rear brakes (caliper, disks and hardware) (requiring an axle swap on the rear, new parking brake cables etc) to "update" to the system that parts are available for. When working on old, not available stuff, you have to think outside the box, and keep in mind, that if it was made by man, it can be re-made by man. The type of machine shop you want is a small shop that does repairs on older stuff, not a large production shop. Ask if they do the kind of work you need or can recommend a shop that does. Your parts look "all there" so at least you have patterns to work from. Shoes can take linings, and cyl can be rebuilt.

Been almost a month, and progress?

Grounds and bulbs. Most likely one side doesn't have a good ground, and backfeeds through the taillight filament.

Not sure what you are looking for? Your shoes look like they could be relined. Your cyl? they can be either be overhauled or sleeved and rebuilt. Parts like adjusters, often can be sourced by looking though buyers guides, although you need a good parts store who will have these catalogs and know how to look at them instead of a computer.

I always think of the late, great George Carlin when talking about stuff like this

As much as I am an "original" guy, I'd forgo those shields as well 1) they look fairly rusty 2) they only have a marginal effect in keeping grease off the linings 3) as your results show, they have almost no effect keeping oil off the shoes if oil bath bearings are used. Since you are going back with oiled bearings, then just toss them. I kept a set on one of my axles, because they were in premo condition, but there is no real advantage to them with oil bearings.

All else fails, should be easy to make one.