Onyx610

He got a brand new head

as I thought it looks to just be a backlash adjustment. It is just an idler gear… https://f01.justanswer.com/Mikemcmillan77/e8702f01-27ef-4360-a632-19792eaa15ef_PV776-88941026.pdf

Did not know that….thanks

Or run it and spray soapy water

If it’s cracked it will be on both sides haha. If you can’t see it I wouldn’t worry about it, or you can try heating it up in spots to see if the crack shows itself.

Took this pic from another thread, look at the one air tank. Forget the arrow.

Unloader/governor.

Tell them to circle the crack and then take the truck back and have someone weld it shut.

Yea just weld it like MackPro said. You won’t be able to find just that piece without buying everything else.

Pry the stand up since you want the bottom. They usually rust out.

Is that the stand up style or the cleartech one box?

I guess when he takes the head to the machine shop they can magnaflux/pressure test the head.

So some of you guys pry know this stuff, but Dan may not so hear is some decent info. A lot of it standard procedure… There are seven main caps made of nodular cast iron. Each cap is marked for its specific location starting with No. 1 at the front. Main caps No. 4 and No. 7 are not marked and have a specific purpose. Main cap No. 4 houses the thrust washers to control axial movement of the crankshaft and main cap No. 7 is the attaching point at the rear of the block for the oil pump. When removing the main caps of the crankshaft, make sure that they are installed back in the correct position. The same thing applies with the rod caps as they are fracture manufactured When removing and installing the cylinder head, make sure to use the alignment screws and washers on the side of the head and block to maneuver the head while lowering it back onto the cylinder block. Because the head gasket has elastomer sealing rings, if the head is lowered onto the gasket and then slid into place, damage to the gasket may occur and result in improper sealing.

I thought it was supposed to be avoided but could be done within a certain limit. If it was done the shims on the cam towers would be needed? Never done it so I ask you for your opinion

Also if anyone decides to machine any metal off that head, if it comes down to it…You will need shims for whatever was taken off to correct the backlash of that cam gear. They go In what I believe is called the cam tower. Basically just raises the cam.

So this is kind of double edge sword…Yea it sucks it came to this, but at the sametime look at the knowledge your gonna have when your done. On top of that a close to new engine!

Pictures and updates please! If you have the time haha…

Well there’s your blow by/compression issue….good thing you got that overhaul kit. Parts are nightmare to get anymore.

Please post the fix though

I think most just replace the harness instead of repairing it. I bet your actuator took a shit…

Either replace the actuator or there is a short in the harness. Actuator should be on the oil cooler.

Engine Piston Cooling Oil Pressure Actuator/Voltage above normal or shorted to high source.

Yea I think a lot of it was really bad tunes…let us know what happens with the compression test.

Now Im a little more worried for you that it’s deleted….A good amount of deleted trucks have eventually gone through some kind of major failure. Usually in the head. Not all just a fair amount, hopefully not the case for you.