JoeH

My mechanical 1995 e7-350 makes 33 psi once I replaced the charge air cooler. Had a crack down the right front between the crossover lines and the tank. Used to top out at 25 psi for years, til it started dipping down to 22. Pyro temps had always been a bit high, wasn't uncommon to push 1200 pulling a hard hill. Now I'm getting 33 psi and it has to be a long hard hill to hit 1000 on the pyro.

My dad bought this welder for $400.00 a few years ago. Sits in my back yard. (I live at work 😃)

Check your boost, you should be seeing 30+psi stock. You could be losing power quietly. Also check your pyro temps, if they're high (1100+) then it's starving for air.

2001 had a fuse box under the hood, top center by the firewall.

I bought the harbor freight "titanium" plasma cutter a couple years ago. Best $1,000 we've spent in a while. Runs on 120 or 240. Almost never use the oxyacet torch any more.

You'll get about a year or so out of the "auto set" before that feature fails. Then you'll be manually adjusting it. If it has a reference chart for amperage and wire speed settings depending on material thickness then SAVE the chart!!! I use our chart all the time. If I remember from class on TIG, you need a dedicated grinder wheel for the tungsten tips so you don't contaminate them, and you had to be very careful with how you grind the tips. The abrasions left on the tip literally throw the electrons, and if they aren't even then it will throw the arc sideways. Welder I know has a friend that can tig weld around corners using mirrors. I've done that mig welding, it's easier than I thought it would be. But the weld spatter is bad for the mirror glass, lol ...

Easiest truck we have ever worked on. Flip the cab forward and you have full access to every side of the engine. Transmission too.

Cab is suspended from timbers spanning across top of A frame to our pallet shelving.

DO NOT APPLY HEAT TO THE RAIL! They're heat treated. There's special processes to follow when heat is involved with rails. Every manufacturer has their own guidelines for weld repairs to frames to keep heat stresses from occuring. I have to reiterate that your rails haven't sprung closed yet because there's still rust in there. splitting the rails is the only way to get it out.

Your frame hasn't sprung back closed because you haven't gotten all the rust out yet. I do know one shop that left the frame in the truck, and separated the rails from back to cab, sandblasted and painted what they had open, then bolted it back together. End result was good, but I'd worry about kinking the rails if leaving the cab forward bolted together.

The truck in these photos is an mr688s that we did all the above and more to last January. Second truck we have done this to. It's a lot of work, but if you have a month and a helper and the know how, the end result is a truck with a second life on the frame. Our business is seasonal so we had the downtime, and we needed to get this truck ready for a brand new volumetric concrete mixer by February.

You gotta pull the rails. One side at a time. One side stays on to hold alignment of everything while you crib up everything on the other side. Axles, transmission, engine, cab.... Hood comes off, fuel tank off, battery boxes rest on the floor... Detach everything from the rail. When you're ready to pull the rails, look it over again, because you forgot something. Ground wires, some dumb wire clamp, etc. Once rail is off you start at the back and drive various implements in to pry the rails apart, being careful not to kink the rails. Once it's apart the rails spring right back where they should be, they're basically spring steel. No press needed. Sandblast, prime & paint, (single stage automotive is best IMO. We tried "Chassis Saver" on one of our trucks but that stuff the gloss fades pretty quick to a flat black.)

Curious minds want to know what you might do with the em7. Those curious minds might be interested in it...

I check this thread almost daily for these pictures. Always good for a laugh.

K, I don't check the forum very often, usually once a week or so. Send me a PM if you are interested in the motor. I'll see the notification.

I've got a 237 with a 5 speed mack trans bolted to it. Engine smokes a bit, doesn't like to start in the cold. Most everything else on the truck is gone, and we haven't had it running in a few years. Was a U675T, I think 1974 or 1976. If your engine is no good then send me a PM, I can check with my dad to see if we want to sell it. Zip code 18914.

The frames are virtually unchanged over the years. You should have no problems finding donor parts from a wide range of years that should work with whatever spec your truck is. Mack did a good job reusing cast frame and suspension components for decades.

Looks like it bolts right to the front of the block/timing cover. I didn't look real close. 1995 RD688S, e7-350, mechanical.

Got you some pictures this morning.

And truckers wonder why cops do DOT stops...

I think they need more duct tape. TJC is probably right.

You should be getting 31 psi of boost out of the truck. I had a cracked charge air cooler on one of my trucks that wouldn't let the truck go above 25 psi. Also ran high egts. Night and day difference in performance when I replaced the CAC.

Rockers look like those on an Iranian Mack that Vlad explained about a few years back. Would seen strange to import a Mack from Iran to the States.

The old 2 stick Mack transmissions are usually around 1,500 lbs I think

I've pulled rails out of a few trucks over the years. Are you talking Rust Jacking horizontal cracks along the flanges or are you talking a vertical crack? Or a stress crack from how the dump body rests on the frame just behind the cab? To remove rail, you have to remove truck body, then block and support everything along the side you're removing. Axles, transmission, front engine crossmember, radiator, can, etc. Fuel tank comes off, battery boxes come off, lift axle comes off, hood comes off, tires off, etc. Unbolt everything. Slide an A-Frame or crane boom over the truck, hook the rail, and expect there to still be something attached. Ensure it's entirely free and slide it out the back. Double Rail can be separated with time and patience by driving a 2x4 in from the rear end of the frame. But sounds like you're into rail replacement depending on how bad the cracks are. Mack Frame Repair Manuals outline how weld and repair rails. If it's Rust Jacking then you're supposed to do this repair before it gets that bad. You get a rail out, separate, sandblast/paint, slap it back in and the do the other side. One side holds alignment while you do the other side. Our most recent project involved all of the above and then some to prep it for a brand new CemenTech concrete mixer.