JoeH

Modern biodiesel grows algae, so your tank suction line could be clogged with that. Or you're outa fuel? Sucking air in somewhere?

That it was running fine until you stuck it in gear tells me engine should be fine, unless you broke a crankshaft getting it in gear with a stuck clutch.

On the inline mechanical engines I've heard the fuel rack can get sticky from sitting. If you disconnect the fuel shutoff linkage from the lever, does it have any resistance? I'm just guessing, I've never worked on an e9 nor do I know how the fuel pumps function compared to inlines.

A zip tie around each lifter should create just enough friction to hold each lifter in place if I recall correctly. Been a few years since we've swapped cams in our endt676, but we've done it a few times, pays to have a few spare engines to pull cams and lifters from...

The black smoke seems odd, but does it trigger a fault code? Does the lightning bolt dash light work? I chased a similar situation on my 2003 mr688, it wound up being the EECU fuse/circuit breaker was loose.

You need to check the spin direction of the PTO. If it's a PTO on the back of one of the counter shafts then I believe it spins opposite of typical pumps. You would need to talk to a hydraulic component retailer to check your pump on your setup. Verifying direction of rotation is important. As is communicating it to the pump shop...

Trying to chase an oil leak on the front of our 2003 mr688s. ETECH 350. What's involved in pulling the timing cover to reseal it? Truck needs a new radiator some time anyway as this one is weeping the faintest amount, so access will be great if I combine tasks. Anything I should look for while in there? Truck has 27,000+ hours, 400k+ miles.

We have a JD450B, motor is great, but dont let the final drives sit unused. Ours sits a lot and the final drive clutch packs glued together. Someone told me you fill the housing with diesel and let it soak into the clutch packs, but we haven't tried it though. And be careful with that neutral safety plate, never crawl under a running machine. The linkage can wear out enough that it'll drop into gear even with that plate set over the shifter.

Gorgeous truck, post this in the Electrical section of the forum.

Dealer item I expect. Though dealer may or may not understand how to look up the VIN, the last 30 years of VINs they just want the last 6 digits.

Ever find the leak?

Quick! Someone hand them a gun!!

I stand corrected; I guess I should correct it to the won't?

PG Adams can't do Mack frames, they can't do the splay around engine trans. DM and R frames are different.

Boss could be wacko. I'm just saying, our 95 rd688 got waterlogged once with hood on, because the #6 exhaust manifold mating surface rusted through. We were lucky there wasn't enough water in it to brake the crankshaft.

My 95 E7-350 managed to get #6 water logged once. The manifold gasket surface managed to rust enough that water got in through the seam between cab and hood. My dad took the manifold off, welded it with a cast iron rod, ground it down and it was good as new. Not saying this is your problem, but we did get a ton of rain this weekend here.

If it's cracked then call your Mack dealer and get the part number for the housing, there's a lot of aftermarket supply for them, you just need to Google the part number and pick a supplier. It's a common failure, and there's a lot of auto garbage trucks demanding them. Note the aftermarket part number will be a close match but will be missing one digit. And your old bell housing to flywheel housing bolts likely won't fit, I think the original is metric and the aftermarket is SAE. Or other way around.

Look along the flywheel housing from the starter motor, up over the top to about a 2:00 position. Mack dealer couldn't get one, but I found one aftermarket at a warehouse in Allentown PA, picked it up.about an hour after talking to the guy. I think it was about half the price Mack wanted for it.

This was the start to our Thursday... My cousin was driving when this happened. Brand New tires on brand new rims, second day on the truck. Tire tech put on 8.25"rims, but the counter man ordered them to have 9" rims: 7,500 lb rims vs 10,000 lb rims. Fortunately it failed at 5mph not 50... Shop replaced junk tire and both rims with the right rims that afternoon. I had to make a second trip to the shop to get the torch as the rim bent itself around the backside of the brake drum. When we got it back to the shop and got the other wheel off it was already buckling and had flat spots developing on the inside bead. The tire is still on the axle. Apart from a little damage to the bead surface it held up well...

If it's an auto then you probably have cracked flywheel housings.

GIVE THEM YOUR VIN NUMBER, WTF???? Dealer incompetence is ridiculous...

Fed writes laws, and states adopt it to the extent they want. Interstate commerce has to meet certain criteria, but individual states can operate however they want internally. In New York they can run 80,000 on a triaxle, but can't have a lift axle switch in the cab. PA triaxles can't exceed 73,280, state doesn't care where your lift axle switches are. CDLs are pretty much the same. Similar, but a few variations.

Let's be honest, if someone takes the test in an auto, do you really want the behind you coming down a mountain in a manual? Provides they were able to get up the other side first? We bought an auto mr688 last year, and for what the truck does, (volumetric concrete mixer) it's the right transmission for this application. PTO can operate while in gear, so I can creep along and pour concrete at the same time. These same conversations I'm sure were had decades ago when manual transmission cars started going by the wayside in favor of automatics.

You're paying for the 605 hp. That's only about $530 per hp...

A thread chaser might be handy for the end of the trunnion bar. Ours was pretty worn away, but we managed to chase some threads clean enough for the clamp to thread back on.... Remember, the bar hangs from the spring. So put cribbing under the bar before cutting u bolts.