JoeH

I'm stumped on what afc stands for; is this the puff limiter system? I was thinking maybe the puff limiter system was hooked up wrong

The rule on adjusting Mack valves is "follow the book to the T"

What are you working on? Probably fuse #42 is loose for the EECU.

My Jake does the same on my 95 e7-350. Always get at least one head working on high, usually don't get the "low" setting head working ever.

The other possibility is you're low on coolant, and for some fluke reason 1500rpms seems to cause a dip in water level, triggering sensor...

In the event you don't have a crack, figure the charge air cooler system is good for 35 psi. Don't leave it on for too long if it's not leaking.

Charge air coolers like to crack. You should see 35 psi of boost. Get a couple 4 inch PVC pipe end caps, put an tire valve stem in one, and clamp one end cap into each rubber hose on the charge air cooler. Hook up your tire chuck to the valve stem on the one cap and listen for leaks. My '95 E7-350 had a nice big crack down the front right side of the charge air cooler. Went from 1100+ degrees on the pyrometer at 22psi boost to -900 degrees and 35psi boost.

Let's start with basic. 2 sensors trigger the shutdown alarm. Oil pressure and coolant level. Replace them both. The coolant sensor has a problem "wicking" coolant along through the sensor to the EECU causing pins to rot out on the EECU. Maybe your coolant sensor is failing. I think there might be 2 oil pressure sensors, one for the EECU and one for the gauge. I think. Joey Mack can correct me, and describe their locations.

Finally made time today to look into this oil leak... There's about a foot or more between the crank damper and the radiator so we figured we could do the timing cover without pulling radiator. Got damper off, hub seal was dry. But the 3 bolts on the driver side that hold the engine mount pedestal to the front engine cover were hand loose! So we torqued them back up to 70 ft lbs where they belong, and we'll see if the leak diminishes at all. Between all our schedules right now and being in the middle of our busy season it's hard to shut down half the fleet for three days to do the front cover properly. Hopefully the leak is reduced enough to hold off to the winter...

Could be oil too. Is it solid or liquid? Oil will float on water. If you have a bad head gasket or oil cooler then oil can cross over into the coolant.

If you don't have a dash switch up next to the ash tray then you have a peanut style automatic power divider. It requires at least one wheel to spin on each axle before you're "stuck". Not exactly sure how to interpret your particular situation you found yourself in, but I'm guessing your power divider was engaging and you had traction on your forward drive but not as much on the rear, so you had some weird tire actions. If you have the dash switch up by the ash tray then your power divider is manually turned on/off. To use this style you have to stop all wheels, flip switch on, then try going. One of my trucks has this style, I tend to reserve it to get myself unstuck rather than using it to get stuck. If that makes sense.

Also I think the "571" digits will be your part number differential between the different HP ratings. Seems you indicate your "571" part number is different from the 400's part number. This you probably don't have 400hp injectors.

Factories typically put paint marks on during assembly to indicate they've checked/torqued bolt down to spec. Could be all that is. If it's a Remack engine or was rebuilt by someone in the past it could be the reassembler's Quality Check mark.

Not familiar with vmac ii, but an old endt676 we had had a 5th gear air valve on the transmission that'd allow the fuel rack to open up all the way

Hope ecm solves it. Any time I check batteries I check resting voltage, then have a helper try cranking it while I'm watching the test voltmeter. My car battery started being unreliable the past couple months. Voltage always tested good, but it was losing cranking amps for some reason. Left me stranded a couple times before I ponied up for a new one.

Bad batteries?... EECU won't turn on with low voltage, I forget what the minimum voltage requirement is. If your batteries are toast or alternator died then I could see you lose EECU power and also lose crank... But I've only got experience with the one computer truck. Our other trucks are mechanical.

My mr688 would crank but not start. I'm guessing yours is the same because you are getting enough power to the key to give you the 9-2 code. If yours won't crank then you may have a power fault somewhere else, maybe the ignition itself.

You need to open your fuse box and check the EECU fuse for looseness. That's why my '03 wouldn't start for a few days.

The extra gears of an 18 are a waste on that motor anyway. Those ENDT676 maxidynes make 90%+ peak torque from about 1000-1200 all the way to 2100 rpms. Unless you're doing a lot of highway speeds all you really need is the 2 stick 5 speed they typically started life with.

I know the cable/tube you're talking about, but I would have assumed the system has a pressure relief valve for that... My single axle dump truck has a piston with a built in bypass that when it fully extends it just diverts oil internally out a secondary hose.

I believe that line literally just pushes onto the fitting. If it's the same as the one in the picture you sent. You may be able to pull it off, cut a bit off, and put it back on if there's enough slack. Maybe wrong though. I'm used to these lines failing on the older endt676 motors. Maybe the e7 doesn't use leakoff lines from the injectors.

Looks like leakoff lines, easy fix. The plastic tubing gets old and starts splitting, which introduces air into the fuel injector lines.

EN=Engine D=Diesel T=Turbo 675=237hp variant 676=283-287hp variant. A gasser example would've been an EN707 or something along those lines whereas you probably have an ENDT675. A turbo charge diesel, 237hp. A naturally aspirated diesel (no turbo) would be END6xx (probably 672, but not positive.) I believe they're all 672 cubic inch engines, but to differentiate the newer variants they just changed the last numerical digit.

I'd suspect valve adjustment and also injection pump timing...

Note the position of throwout bearing and clutch release fork before you disassemble, their setup may be different than you're used to?