JoeH

If you're not afraid of computer engines then I'd recommend 2001 as the best year ETECH engines. (In my opinion). Pre 2001 had the eecu mounted next to frame rail under turbo. Loose/worn engine mounts could allow engine to rock and dent side of eecu, destroying it. Late 2002 & 2003 introduced some emissions BS. Fortunately, the CV713's emission components can be swapped with pre emission year parts. Camshaft, exhaust manifold, turbo. The CH emissions system used an EGR system. Can't be deleted.

https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/217837017?utm_source=TruckPaper&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=mobile_share&utm_content=details_link I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess this is the truck you looked at?

What state are you located in? Best thing to do is download Truck Paper app on your phone and sift through to find a bunch of trucks you want to look at that are at the same seller. Make a day trip & get to see a bunch of trucks. Downside of what you're looking for: double frame rust jacking.

#1 look on the valve cover engine tag, if it says "Remack" then the engines been rebuilt by Mack. #2 +1 on always dump the air when dumping. Air ride is not as good off-road as camelback. It doesn't articulate well when going over rough terrain. It takes time for air to leave one bag and head to another, whereas camelback just seesaws instantly. #3 not familiar with 9 speed low end ratios. You really only have one usable reverse gear, the high range reverse is way too fast to be functional unless you're on flat blacktop with no obstacles. There is nothing better than the 2 stick transmission you already have for off-road. #4 I know what you mean with the Jake brake for shifting. My first daily driver was a 1979 R686ST. 283hp, 2 stick trans with a Jake. The 9 speed ratios are much closer. You don't need the Jake to shift, it'll just screw you up. It should only be 400 rpm drops between gears, not the 800+ you are used to.

I'd redesign it to look.an awful lot like this: Of course it'd have to have a high pressure common rail fuel system or something modern like, and some emissions BS but I think a lot of us would hop on board with this "redesign"....

Does your engine tag say ETECH 350 or AI-350? 2003 started the AI-350, which used a restrictive exhaust manifold and turbo and an extra bump on the exhaust cam lobes to make the engine suck exhaust back into the engine on the intake stroke. If I recall properly, the AI-350 was actually introduced mid year in 2002. If you have one of these then you can delete the garbage components and install non garbage versions from earlier years. There's a thread on here somewhere with all the info on it.

My mechanical 1995 e7-350 makes 33 psi once I replaced the charge air cooler. Had a crack down the right front between the crossover lines and the tank. Used to top out at 25 psi for years, til it started dipping down to 22. Pyro temps had always been a bit high, wasn't uncommon to push 1200 pulling a hard hill. Now I'm getting 33 psi and it has to be a long hard hill to hit 1000 on the pyro.

My dad bought this welder for $400.00 a few years ago. Sits in my back yard. (I live at work 😃)

Check your boost, you should be seeing 30+psi stock. You could be losing power quietly. Also check your pyro temps, if they're high (1100+) then it's starving for air.

2001 had a fuse box under the hood, top center by the firewall.

I bought the harbor freight "titanium" plasma cutter a couple years ago. Best $1,000 we've spent in a while. Runs on 120 or 240. Almost never use the oxyacet torch any more.

You'll get about a year or so out of the "auto set" before that feature fails. Then you'll be manually adjusting it. If it has a reference chart for amperage and wire speed settings depending on material thickness then SAVE the chart!!! I use our chart all the time. If I remember from class on TIG, you need a dedicated grinder wheel for the tungsten tips so you don't contaminate them, and you had to be very careful with how you grind the tips. The abrasions left on the tip literally throw the electrons, and if they aren't even then it will throw the arc sideways. Welder I know has a friend that can tig weld around corners using mirrors. I've done that mig welding, it's easier than I thought it would be. But the weld spatter is bad for the mirror glass, lol ...

Easiest truck we have ever worked on. Flip the cab forward and you have full access to every side of the engine. Transmission too.

Cab is suspended from timbers spanning across top of A frame to our pallet shelving.

DO NOT APPLY HEAT TO THE RAIL! They're heat treated. There's special processes to follow when heat is involved with rails. Every manufacturer has their own guidelines for weld repairs to frames to keep heat stresses from occuring. I have to reiterate that your rails haven't sprung closed yet because there's still rust in there. splitting the rails is the only way to get it out.

Your frame hasn't sprung back closed because you haven't gotten all the rust out yet. I do know one shop that left the frame in the truck, and separated the rails from back to cab, sandblasted and painted what they had open, then bolted it back together. End result was good, but I'd worry about kinking the rails if leaving the cab forward bolted together.

The truck in these photos is an mr688s that we did all the above and more to last January. Second truck we have done this to. It's a lot of work, but if you have a month and a helper and the know how, the end result is a truck with a second life on the frame. Our business is seasonal so we had the downtime, and we needed to get this truck ready for a brand new volumetric concrete mixer by February.

You gotta pull the rails. One side at a time. One side stays on to hold alignment of everything while you crib up everything on the other side. Axles, transmission, engine, cab.... Hood comes off, fuel tank off, battery boxes rest on the floor... Detach everything from the rail. When you're ready to pull the rails, look it over again, because you forgot something. Ground wires, some dumb wire clamp, etc. Once rail is off you start at the back and drive various implements in to pry the rails apart, being careful not to kink the rails. Once it's apart the rails spring right back where they should be, they're basically spring steel. No press needed. Sandblast, prime & paint, (single stage automotive is best IMO. We tried "Chassis Saver" on one of our trucks but that stuff the gloss fades pretty quick to a flat black.)

Curious minds want to know what you might do with the em7. Those curious minds might be interested in it...

I check this thread almost daily for these pictures. Always good for a laugh.

K, I don't check the forum very often, usually once a week or so. Send me a PM if you are interested in the motor. I'll see the notification.

I've got a 237 with a 5 speed mack trans bolted to it. Engine smokes a bit, doesn't like to start in the cold. Most everything else on the truck is gone, and we haven't had it running in a few years. Was a U675T, I think 1974 or 1976. If your engine is no good then send me a PM, I can check with my dad to see if we want to sell it. Zip code 18914.

The frames are virtually unchanged over the years. You should have no problems finding donor parts from a wide range of years that should work with whatever spec your truck is. Mack did a good job reusing cast frame and suspension components for decades.

Looks like it bolts right to the front of the block/timing cover. I didn't look real close. 1995 RD688S, e7-350, mechanical.

Got you some pictures this morning.