JoeH

April fool's I suspect!

The top "right" (passenger side) bolt must have dropped the rubbery washer out. That bolt wasn't holding that corner down well, but the bolt was seized: twisted off. Had to drill and re-tap to take a 5/16 bolt instead of the metric junk that was in there. Only got to do a 4 mile round trip test run empty today, looking forward to seeing how it runs loaded tomorrow!

Replaced charge air cooler. Had a fatigue crack halfway down the front of one side.

Truck went from being a mutt tapping out barely at 20 psi of boost back to a bulldog at 30 psi of boost. In 10 years of owning this truck we have never seen more than 25 psi out of it.

Now I want to find one for when my boys are old enough to not trash that thing.

Never seen a camelback with shock absorbers...

If you've changed fuel filters and have had the tanks off then you have a ton of air in your fuel system. Many trucks have a hand primer mounted on them, there's a few different styles. Take a picture and upload it for us. The hand primer pump should be pumped until you hear fuel splashing back into the fuel tank or if you're running out of a bucket then you can hold the return line up so you can see fuel flowing out. You know you're starting to move fuel when the hand pump gets very hard to push. When you get to that point.... Keep priming for a bit. Also since you're new to diesels, these older ones have a knob next to the key for "Fuel shutoff" you need to push that knob in all the way before it will start. You can pull the batteries out of these trucks and they'll keep running til you pull that knob out to shut the engine down.

Are you oiling the gasket o ring before installing the filters? They can bunch up and cause leaks if you install them dry. Also, follow the.instructions! Run the filter on by hand til it makes contact, then go 3/4 to 1 full turn more.

Finally got good news, PTO and hydraulic pump are in, about a week later than the "three weeks" estimate I was given a month ago. Truck will be ready for Pick Up on Monday April 11th! I plan on being in Iowa around lunchtime on the 11th. I haven't seen pictures of it yet, but I will certainly upload a few at some point!

@Joey Mack the original thread accidentally got deleted, so they had to rebuild it from scratch. All part numbers for cam interchangeability, proper exhaust manifolds etc are all in here.

There is the "Logging Dog Dead Dog Remediation" post on here for the ASET AI engines. Involves replacing camshaft with a pre ASET cam, changing exhaust manifold with pre ASET, as well as turbo and exhaust pipe. All basically to remove the Backpressure feature, allowing the engine to actually breath. If you have an ASET AC, well... That sucks, not a lot you can do there. ASET AI is probably the only Mack engine that takes a "delete" well.

Does the new key switch still need a couple key cycles to get it to shut down sometimes? That seems strange, possible short circuiting in a wire harness?

Jot that VIN down and ask your local Mack dealer for some gauges and components for the In Cab Oil Level Checker....

Bergeys has access to it, it'll be here in about a week. Anxious to see what 350hp feels like, this truck has always run a little hot on the pyro with no more than 25 psi boost.

If you're engine light is working it will power on for a few seconds then go out, assuming there's no active fault. Should look like a lightning bolt. You should have two fuse boxes, one in the glove box the other under the hood. Fire up the truck, look for the fuse that says EECU, wiggle it. I bet your engine will shut down. You'll need to pull that fuse/circuit breaker and squeeze the terminals a little tighter so they get a better grip.

The guy near us closed up his radiator repair and shifted to selling welding supplies. Nowadays radiators are plastic throw-aways, not much business in repair. I'll call him tomorrow and see if he's willing/able.

Charge air cooler leaks like a sieve. Bergeys put in a request to Mack to see if it's available, if it's not then what are my options? RD688S chassis.

Correction I believe it's called "gland" nut, not "glad" nut.

Belt will squeal in lower gears, high RPM when it works hard pulling air. When you're in higher gears it shouldn't squeal, as the fan speed becomes more closely matched to wind speed. It shouldn't squeal at all, but a belt that's a little loose will act like the above.

You don't really want more gears, that motor makes 90%+ torque from ~1100rpms to 2100. In between gears are a waste. Only thing I can recommend is source an engine brake for it to cut down on shift time. It'll make the hills a breeze.

Boost leak would also explain why this truck runs hot on the pyro, even though it ever smokes... Not hard to hit 1100°+ climbing a hill, even with 4 inch straight through muffler.

I do hear a boost leak on occasion. Doesn't always do it, but sometimes there's a faint audible leak that builds with the turbo. Is there a particular engine degree to close off enough valves that the pressure test won't leak through the valves? Also, how do you close off the CAC turbo-side? This truck also has a Cold Start bypass setup to bypass the CAC. It has a small crossover pipe coming from between the turbo and CAC with an air operated butterfly valve, and another butterfly valve after the CAC. This system effectively shuts off air flow through the CAC so it sucks in warm turbo air. Is it common for the cold start plumbing to generate a leak?

Bought a harbor freight 1 inch gun, and 10" long. Claims it goes to 1500 ft lbs. Our other 1" gun had the long shank, wouldn't fit under there. Ran the gun til it pretty much doesn't tighten any more...

@raybing

Operator error, it got fixed, or it got sold...