JoeH

Snap a picture of the brackets you have and we can yay or nay one style or the other for grommets.

So I bought Mack Part Number "23-021". Its awesome. Cost me about $176. Its a flash drive with wiring schematics of every Mack model/option from about 2000 to 2021 build years. Even lists some Australian trucks. It is almost 4GB of data. Open the flash drive, open folder "src", then open the program launcher. Launcher window has 2 drop downs, one for build year the other for truck model. Pick those 2 then it gives you a series of system choices: engine controls, transmission controls, HVAC, lighting, after treatment(emissions junk) etc etc etc. All the wires in the schematic (or at least for my 2003) are labelled. For anyone who has a truck in this year range, I can't recommend this enough.

What's the application? Tell us more about these 30-40% grades. considering 45% is halfway to straight up, I have to question the accuracy of the grades. Is this once in a while to come out of the pit at a quarry?

Clarify what engine is in the donor granite, it's either AI-400 or ETECH 400. It shouldn't be an E7 though. Difference is the fuel system. That aside, assuming ETECH 400 or AI-400 everything should be identical other than minor turbo differences based on AI vs AMI. Only difference between AI(and AMI) and ETECH is the camshaft has extra bumps on the exhaust lobes in order to open the exhaust valves a hair during exhaust stroke to suck emissions back into the engine. The turbo and exhaust manifolds are also a bit restrictive to create back pressure to facilitate the dog eating it's own vomit.

Sounds like you have an interested party in idaho

Depends how good you are with a clutch. What year is the truck? The vmac III engines the computer will assist by maintaining idle as a minimum. On a hill from a dead stop, you have one foot on clutch, one on brake. Use lowest gear you have, which on an 8LL is LL. Ease the clutch out til you feel it make contact and start to grab just enough to hold truck from rolling backwards, then your brake foot moves to accel pedal and gives it an extra couple hundred rpms at most while your left foot eases the clutch out the rest of the way.

How fast do you want to get up that hill? You just set it in low low and keep the engine revved up, you'll get to the top eventually.

These are 11 liter engines so they really just don't have much potential for engine braking.

What's your other truck? The Jake brake on these isn't much use for anything other than shifting, but it makes a world of difference as a shift aid.

New gaskets are a must. This is an ENDTB, so it has Dynatard not jake brake? Does the Dynatard use a riser under the valve cover? The Jake does, so you need 2 valve cover gaskets per head, one for the riser and one for the valve cover. I've never had a Dynatard so I don't know how they're set up.

These don't have a valve cover groove.

While I've only had to replace one head on these engines, we've had the valve covers off plenty of times. Last time was to delete the jake brake, we have a weak valve springs on one cylinder and the disk on top of the valve stem that the jake actuator pushes on kept popping out, so after the 2nd time it popped out we pulled the plug on the jake.

Trust me. Absolutely nothing. Don't use hi tack, don't use silicone, don't use anything. Check the valve covers for "straight" sides, the mating surface bows outwards when you over tighten. Wipe the mating surfaces down real well so there's no oil residue or anything else on them, put the gasket down, cover on, make sure the gasket is sitting right under the covers, then torque them up. High tack and rtv silicone and anything else will lubricate the gasket and it will squeeze out. You will never get them to seal properly for any length of time unless you do them dry. Our '79 endt676 we could never get to seal up. We tried high tack and rtv and it always leaked. Then we did it dry once and we've been leak free for years now.

If he wants to total it I'll tell him "BS, I can fix it for 80% of that." That's typically the cutoff point where they total it. If it's totalled, they auction it off and I have Last Right to buy it at auction price. So I'm expecting them to value my truck at $30k even though I have $70k into that chassis. Then some exporter buys it at auction for $10k, I gotta buy it back, and I get $20k for my $70k investment. I will have no problem fixing the truck for -80% of $30k.

Throwing my $0.02 at a 13 year old post, the "Low" position effectively sets all the gears "down" one gear. 2nd acts like 1st, 3rd like 2nd, 4th like 3rd, etc. In my opinion, you couldn't ask for a better setup for local driving, if you had a jake brake. Hill shifts are no problem, with a jake. Shifts smooth and easy, and not too many gears to wear out your shoulder. My Eaton 8ll is a PoS, occasionally it hangs up in gear for a second even when the shifter is in neutral. Always has been since we bought the truck 13 years ago, but I haven't blown it up yet so we keep running it.

Same here. They're either concrete pumps and $100,000+ or garbage trucks and beat to heck. Part of what's frustrating about the whole thing, ours was a bit of a gem compared to anything else as old out there!

On the frame he thought a couple of the places where the frame changes depth and also splays out around the engine/trans were kinks from the accident. He also thought the frame would be twisted, which yea on a dump truck I'd expect that. But this mixer bolts rigid at the back, and mid and front mounts are spring-hold bolt mounts, which only allow about 2" of twist deviation from the mixer body, which has its own frame that adds rigidity to the truck.

@Joey Mack got the mixer body off on Black Friday, had my cousin Pete "The Crane Man" bring one of his cranes over to lift it off. Insurance guy came to look at truck more than a week ago and he tried telling me the frame got tweaked. BS. There's not a thing wrong with this frame. He sounded like he was ready to total the chassis, but I told him we're not totalling anything til I get the mixer body off and get a truck collision guy over to look this thing over. I think I'm gonna get away very lucky, only needing a cab and miscellaneous hoses and brackets, tie rod & ends, maybe kingpins and drag link ends too, just to be safe. Axle shifted about 1/4 inch on the passenger side, so it could be into springs as well. Just need to lock in on a decent parts truck and we can get this truck back together.

I've only had to do a head on these once, I did it by the book. Torque to 200, drive around got an hour, retorque. Its a pain to have to deal with all the intake tubing, and those valve covers are horrible to seal. Gotta do them dry and do not go above torque spec.

I walked away from a 2003 granite cv713 a few years ago that had a great frame, except for a small 4 inch horizontal crack in the frame just behind the cab. $40k truck that needed new inner and outer frame rails because of that dumb crack. Rails can run $10k per side or more, plus the install labor.

Apart from that one spot by the hoist cylinder I think that is a great looking truck, frame and all. 2006 will be an AI-400 motor, which has a restrictive exhaust manifold and turbo, and an extra little bump on the exhaust lobes of the camshaft. These things are the extent of the emissions system on it, and they can all be replaced with components that predate the ASET AI/AC emissions systems. There's a thread on here somewhere on it with part numbers. The AI has the bump on the cam to open exhaust valves a bit on the intake stroke so the truck can breath it's own vomit. (Exhaust). Computer won't know the difference if you replace these bits, and the thread on here indicated a noticeable difference in power.

Note the horizontal line. Could be light reflection, could be a crack.

Just looked it up, it's the opposite of lab grown, it's basically just pasture rotated turkeys. They're allowed to scrounge around it the dirt for their food, which yields a healthier bird and healthier earth for farming.

I wonder if it's "Lab grown meat." Apparently they've started taking meat cells and by keeping them in some sort of solution they can keep the cells from dying and actually get them to multiply, literally growing meat without being attached to the animal! Sounds like a cancer trigger waiting to happen...

I think dealer is being lazy.