JoeH

Sequences are always start in the middle and spiral your way out. Can't help you on torque settings.

Looked at a heavy spec triaxle tractor hooked up to a low boy a few weeks ago in Telford, PA. Truck was in real nice shape, rd688s, etech motor with exhaust side computer tuned to close to 500rwhp. Rebuilt rears and an 18 speed trans in it. L&W Clearing 215) 799 -4092

Wont let me upload pictures. Windows 7 Gives me an error code -200

Year? Model? Engine? Transmission?

Exhaust manifold? Not sure how the mp7 is set up, but on our old e6 motors we just loosen the exhaust manifold nuts and on the new gaskets we cut out the bottom of the bolt holes so they're a horseshoe instead of a full hole. We scrape out the old gaskets as best we can, then drop the new modified gaskets in, all without having to remove exhaust manifold. Manifold gaskets for our e6 engines have a metal layer, a pair of dykes or sheet metal shears works well to cut through. When we bought our e7 350, we had an exhaust manifold leak. Manifold itself had rusted at the gasket surface. Had to take it off and use cast iron welding rod to fill the rust area back in/grind it smooth to fix the leak.

Thanks for the fix! That'll help someone in a few years whos digging for answers!

Unless all your hauling is local

Etech motor? Buy Mack book 5-106 for the mechanical repairs, and book 8-211 for the vmac III codes/repairs/diagnostics. You can hold down the set/decel button (with key on/engine off) to cause it to spit out active fault codes in a 2 digit format. One request spits out one code, hit set/decel for another code. I wouldn't be afraid of it, pending it passing a thorough visual inspection and checking for fault codes, and a test drive. But 350 hp for a tractor is a bit soft IMO...

I think you mean PoorlyBilts and InterTrashionals...

I've never worked on one, I'll have to get the books out to see how they're constructed. I've had problems with wheels spinning in the past, (spoke hubs) but I have them tightened well right now. We've replaced a couple hubs on this truck with broken spokes. Elephant pads look pretty worn out IIRC, so broken dowels as a potential cause caught my attention. It got new torque arms put on when we bought the truck, so I expect it's not them. Plus it doesn't do it all the time.

Not particularly, we never change all 8 drive tires all at once. Only ever do one set of 2 at a time. We've been doing it this way for 30 or 40 years.

Good info here, my 95 rd688s does this same thing once in a while on takeoff, only as clutch is being let out. Will have to check for wear on spring T's. My truck does NOT have the auto power divider. Could my issue still be with power divider?

I want it. But wife would kill me, we're saving for a house...

Bump Dan wants it. Is it still available?

No...... The volvo i-shift offers it too... They're the same transmission...

Clogged fuel filter..... You didn't give us much info... What model, what engine...

Change the fuel filters again. My 95 mechanical e7 350 did this last year. First set fixed it for a couple days, replaced the filters again and it hasn't been back since. Also make sure you oil the filter O-rings before install, or you'll suck air in.

Less than you paid!!

And if a cop sees a new engine straight piped he's going to wonder where the immisions parts are

I wonder if these trucks had pyrometers or drivers that knew how to read a pyrometer. Trucks fuel map was probably tweaked, putting out a wider power band and more power. Exhaust systems are designed to be most efficient at a very narrow rpm band. Modern ones are also designed for all that Regen crap. If you're going to delete it and remap the fuel, you have to get the heat out of those heads! You have to redesign the exhaust. Ideal is basically just straight piped.

I had a Ford f250 like that. Had an extra leaf on the front axle, I swear when you lifted the plow the hood actually came up instead of dropping!

Thanks! Can I up the gov to 2100 without hurting anything? We just retired a low rpm endt676 that we turned up to 2100 a few years ago.

Our shop compressor airs up to 150psi, shuts off, then kicks on again at like 115 psi. When you get down near 115 it takes a while to trigger it to pump back to 150. Tires hold a lot of volume. And if you're working in flat mud, you're not really winding your turbo like you can on hills...

Don't change the coolant filter too often. They're supposed to have an additive in them to revitalize your coolants pH level. Changing too often will skew the pH level in a bad direction.

Haven't looked at the hood in a while, don't recall if it's really even usable. Scoop is fine, I can just cut the hood around it and let you separate them. Whereabouts are you? Haven't thought much about boxing it for shipping.