JoeH

Wow.

I'd say justice served, but boss still had to pay for repairs to the rats truck/trailer, even if it's just lines. Better one than a dozen though! Makes my blood boil that an employee could be that malicious. Unskilled is one thing, that can be fixed. But malicious? I have no tolerance for that.

Her Native American name is Walking Eagle. So full of sh#t she can't fly! I listen to Philadelphia's 1210am station pretty much 8-5 every day. Rich Zeoli from 3-6 is a riot, and he forms his opinions based off the Constitution, not his own agenda.

Was it a tractor? Triaxle? How did it do pulling 70k+ lbs? I have a 95 e7 350 triaxle with an 8LL that I load to 73k and it's a bit of a dog. 1600rpm in 8th does 60mph, which is as fast as I ever need to go. It doesn't have a straight through muffler, inlet comes in the side. Exhaust temps run high pulling hills, water heats up to around 200. Going to put a straight through muffler on it this year and see what that does for EGT and water temps. In the 4 years I've driven it all we've done are brakes, tires, a couple broken hubs, a clutch, and a broken combination cylinder in the trans. Before that I drove a '79 endt676 maxidyne with a 2 stick loaded to about 52k for 6 years. I love how that '79 pulls, up until the past 5 years even new trucks couldn't keep up with it. Would love to know how an e7 maxidyne (I think em7-300 from what I researched this morning) compares to the endt676 and my e7-350.

If you're in Texas I'd stick with 15/40, if you're in Alaska I'd go with 10/30 because of difference in climate temperatures.

Completely different mounting surfaces. No go.

My e7-350 makes peak horse power at 1800 according to the engine plate, pretty sure it's governed higher than 18, never really took notice of governed speed though. Disregarding governed speeds, would this make an e7 pull like a maxidyne? Can the e6 injection pump put out enough fuel to run a 12 liter engine? I believe the maxidynes run a higher oil pressure than typical diesels at low rpms, which allows them to turn so much power as low as 1000 rpm without causing damage from "lugging" the engine. My '79 endt676 makes between 60-90psi at idle. Don't think the e7 makes this kind of oil pressure, that would be a modification required if one wanted to put a maxidyne pump on an e7...

Can an e6 maxidyne fuel pump be mounted on an e7? Just curious, would be nice to capitalize on that extra liter of displacement in the e7. Not sure if an e6 fuel pump can put out enough fuel to make an e7 run like a bigger maxidyne

Try a truck junkyard...

Start by pulling the axles. Splines could be stripped on one. Assuming Mack rears, they have side covers that you can pull off and look inside the differential... If you see metal bits you know where your problem is... If you put the body up and watch the driveshaft does it spin when it's in gear? (Aka is your problem in the tranny)

1/2 inch cable has a min break strength of 21.4k lbs. Not sure what winch is good for, but if you need more strength run a 2 part line.

We usually get "wow that's old. Must be well taken care of to still be running!" They check lights, brake adjustment and we're on our way...

A good reason to have the book! But the forum can be just as good!

Noted; we operate a 15-20 mile radius from our yard, truck only occasionally sees 60mph. It's a '95 with about 245k miles on it. Pads look dry rotted more than anything, but I'll see that we check things over.

It's a 44k bronze bushing. It'll just get cribbed up and the rears lifted off the springs enough to pop the new ones in. I don't expect to be touching the U bolts or bushings. Is that website the Atro pads?

Google Mack engine book 5-101. It will have everything you need to know and then some for that motor. Mine is out in the garage, won't have access to it for a few days to look up the procedure. Not sure if that engine uses flywheel markings or damper wheel markings. We always write with a marker on the damper wheel and put 1/6, 2/5 etc by the corresponding mark. We find TDC by feeling which set of exhaust/intake valves are loose at a given mark. Never pulled an injector out to find TDC.

My '79 does the same thing, always has in the 10 years I've been driving it. It's a pain crawling at an idle, but I don't know of any fix.

Engines normally have marks around 0° for cylinder 1, can be hard to see though with surface rust and dirt buildup. Wire brush it and spray some penetrating oil or something on it to try and get the numbers to pop. Mechanical engines kinda need to have marks to set the fuel timing advance.

Crawled under the truck, shows signs of right intermediate axle sliding on the spring. Looks like the truck is getting elephant pads this spring when the cash flow starts up again!

Sequences are always start in the middle and spiral your way out. Can't help you on torque settings.

Looked at a heavy spec triaxle tractor hooked up to a low boy a few weeks ago in Telford, PA. Truck was in real nice shape, rd688s, etech motor with exhaust side computer tuned to close to 500rwhp. Rebuilt rears and an 18 speed trans in it. L&W Clearing 215) 799 -4092

Wont let me upload pictures. Windows 7 Gives me an error code -200

Year? Model? Engine? Transmission?

Exhaust manifold? Not sure how the mp7 is set up, but on our old e6 motors we just loosen the exhaust manifold nuts and on the new gaskets we cut out the bottom of the bolt holes so they're a horseshoe instead of a full hole. We scrape out the old gaskets as best we can, then drop the new modified gaskets in, all without having to remove exhaust manifold. Manifold gaskets for our e6 engines have a metal layer, a pair of dykes or sheet metal shears works well to cut through. When we bought our e7 350, we had an exhaust manifold leak. Manifold itself had rusted at the gasket surface. Had to take it off and use cast iron welding rod to fill the rust area back in/grind it smooth to fix the leak.

Thanks for the fix! That'll help someone in a few years whos digging for answers!