JoeH

Likewise, your health and safety are most important. You could have a nice wide aluminum ladder fabricated that grabs the strap pockets along the sides of the trailer. Have it go above the deck of the pup as high as you need so you can adjust straps and still have hand holds. And have it designed so you can move it anywhere along the side of the trailer so you can use it for every strap. Could hang it on the back of the Dolly for transport. A new wheelbase can take some getting used to if you've only driven one setup for long time. My dad's 65 and Im not sure he can adapt to new setups as comfortably as he used to.

I have endt676's from the 70's, both 237s and 285s and we just bought an 88 em6-300. Blocks look identical from a quick glance. Heads and up are the only visible difference to me.

No. The blocks are different.

Lol the e6 is a 3 bolt mount style, while the e7 is a 4 bolt. Totally different mounting pattern. =( I have my eyes set on restoring our 79 R686ST with the original endt676 motor back to a tractor, but it'll be a few years. Will need to buy a truck to replace it first, it's still a work truck.

The engine brake makes the maxidyne drive like a race truck. Cuts shifting time down by more than half, and keeps turbo spooled up so when you're in gear again you're already spooled and pulling. When you get good at timing it, you make other brands look like a joke, and there's no hill you can't get to 4th gear on from a stop and still keep pulling. (4th puts you up around 35-40mph, 5th takes you from there up to about 62 mph on ours)

I've blown the radiator put with compressed air before, but I know it's still dusty. I've never taken the intercooler off to clean things up, I'll have to do that this spring too. It does pull good at 60, 1600 rpm is the sweet spot. It doesn't have much ass to maintain speed when you hit hills, not like the endt676. I've heard more gears on the maxidyne is a waste. With their torque band you have too many gears. A 2 stick and a Jake brake get you to speed fast. We took our Jake off our 676 because it has a weak valve spring that kept dropping the Jake disc that sits on top of the exhaust valve. No more Jake for shifting ...

Wow.

I'd say justice served, but boss still had to pay for repairs to the rats truck/trailer, even if it's just lines. Better one than a dozen though! Makes my blood boil that an employee could be that malicious. Unskilled is one thing, that can be fixed. But malicious? I have no tolerance for that.

Her Native American name is Walking Eagle. So full of sh#t she can't fly! I listen to Philadelphia's 1210am station pretty much 8-5 every day. Rich Zeoli from 3-6 is a riot, and he forms his opinions based off the Constitution, not his own agenda.

Was it a tractor? Triaxle? How did it do pulling 70k+ lbs? I have a 95 e7 350 triaxle with an 8LL that I load to 73k and it's a bit of a dog. 1600rpm in 8th does 60mph, which is as fast as I ever need to go. It doesn't have a straight through muffler, inlet comes in the side. Exhaust temps run high pulling hills, water heats up to around 200. Going to put a straight through muffler on it this year and see what that does for EGT and water temps. In the 4 years I've driven it all we've done are brakes, tires, a couple broken hubs, a clutch, and a broken combination cylinder in the trans. Before that I drove a '79 endt676 maxidyne with a 2 stick loaded to about 52k for 6 years. I love how that '79 pulls, up until the past 5 years even new trucks couldn't keep up with it. Would love to know how an e7 maxidyne (I think em7-300 from what I researched this morning) compares to the endt676 and my e7-350.

If you're in Texas I'd stick with 15/40, if you're in Alaska I'd go with 10/30 because of difference in climate temperatures.

Completely different mounting surfaces. No go.

My e7-350 makes peak horse power at 1800 according to the engine plate, pretty sure it's governed higher than 18, never really took notice of governed speed though. Disregarding governed speeds, would this make an e7 pull like a maxidyne? Can the e6 injection pump put out enough fuel to run a 12 liter engine? I believe the maxidynes run a higher oil pressure than typical diesels at low rpms, which allows them to turn so much power as low as 1000 rpm without causing damage from "lugging" the engine. My '79 endt676 makes between 60-90psi at idle. Don't think the e7 makes this kind of oil pressure, that would be a modification required if one wanted to put a maxidyne pump on an e7...

Can an e6 maxidyne fuel pump be mounted on an e7? Just curious, would be nice to capitalize on that extra liter of displacement in the e7. Not sure if an e6 fuel pump can put out enough fuel to make an e7 run like a bigger maxidyne

Try a truck junkyard...

Start by pulling the axles. Splines could be stripped on one. Assuming Mack rears, they have side covers that you can pull off and look inside the differential... If you see metal bits you know where your problem is... If you put the body up and watch the driveshaft does it spin when it's in gear? (Aka is your problem in the tranny)

1/2 inch cable has a min break strength of 21.4k lbs. Not sure what winch is good for, but if you need more strength run a 2 part line.

We usually get "wow that's old. Must be well taken care of to still be running!" They check lights, brake adjustment and we're on our way...

A good reason to have the book! But the forum can be just as good!

Noted; we operate a 15-20 mile radius from our yard, truck only occasionally sees 60mph. It's a '95 with about 245k miles on it. Pads look dry rotted more than anything, but I'll see that we check things over.

It's a 44k bronze bushing. It'll just get cribbed up and the rears lifted off the springs enough to pop the new ones in. I don't expect to be touching the U bolts or bushings. Is that website the Atro pads?

Google Mack engine book 5-101. It will have everything you need to know and then some for that motor. Mine is out in the garage, won't have access to it for a few days to look up the procedure. Not sure if that engine uses flywheel markings or damper wheel markings. We always write with a marker on the damper wheel and put 1/6, 2/5 etc by the corresponding mark. We find TDC by feeling which set of exhaust/intake valves are loose at a given mark. Never pulled an injector out to find TDC.

My '79 does the same thing, always has in the 10 years I've been driving it. It's a pain crawling at an idle, but I don't know of any fix.

Engines normally have marks around 0° for cylinder 1, can be hard to see though with surface rust and dirt buildup. Wire brush it and spray some penetrating oil or something on it to try and get the numbers to pop. Mechanical engines kinda need to have marks to set the fuel timing advance.

Crawled under the truck, shows signs of right intermediate axle sliding on the spring. Looks like the truck is getting elephant pads this spring when the cash flow starts up again!