JoeH

I had an 01 etech 400 that had ABS codes, there was some way to get the codes blinked for that too, but I don't recall. Get me the engine codes and I'll look into ABS codes in the meantime.

If he hasn't pulled you're engine codes and told you what they are he's a dipshit. Go to the truck, turn key on, don't start engine. If lightning bolt stays on, you have an Active Fault code. With cruise control off, hold down set/decel button for 3 seconds. Lightning bolt will blink a 2 digit number to you. Write it down. Each set/decel triggers computer to give you one code, if there's multiple active fault codes you need to hold set/decel again to draw the next code. Keep pulling codes til you've gotten all of them. Post codes here, I have a Mack manual that lists all the codes. If one of the codes is serious the eecu will limit power to prevent serious damage to the engine. Could be a simple sensor failing. An engine rebuild doesn't fix electronic problems, it just fixes the mechanicals, which might be perfectly fine. Don't throw money at a problem you haven't diagnosed.

Got it fixed, at the bottom of the page is a theme drop down selection. Default doesn't work for me, OEM does....

Just started getting this message any time I try looking at a topic. Doesn't show any content, just this message. [[Template forums/front/topics/topic is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

I think DMs in general are ugly. Doesn't help that ours has a 20k front axle. You may as well not have suspension at that point. I don't like the steel hoods, it must be a pain to work on anything in there. DMs are already hard to work on, and to have one that the whole hood doesn't tip out of your way? No thanks. But I can appreciate a well taken care of Mack show truck that isn't a Molvo.

You can pull active "blink codes" with the cruise control. Easy to do, procedure should be spelled out somewhere on here.

I frequently drill rubber with a barbed pipe fitting in the drill press, it basically acts like a hole saw. It's actually 2 barbed fittings joined by a pipe coupling. One to stick in the drill chuck and the other to do the drilling. It moreso punches through than drills, but it works on the rubber I use. Doubt it'd work on that stuff, but maybe thinking outside the box will get you taken care of. Not sure if it's the hole through the middle you need to make or the shoulder. Is it supposed to have a shoulder or is that old one fatigued into that shape?

Or RM. 6x6 DM's are DMM. The 6x6 R is RM I believe

RMM

Looks like someone turned it into a not so mobile home. Looks like the axles were pulled out and it got insulation instead. Looks like a roof was put on with a satellite dish. Probably was leaking through the bus roof. You'd have to pay me to take that of your hands. Notice there's no interior photos, it's probably so moldy and grungy inside.

I'm only 29 so I wouldn't know. I'd guess the ESI + would be more popular on a highway tractor where you're logging a lot of miles, whereas local dump trucks and concrete mixers would have the ESI where your oil pan will sit higher from any off-roading threats. That'd be the biggest decision factor if it were me.

That's an ESI+ not an ESI. 2 oil filters for ESI, 3 for ESI+. Different capacity oil pans. ESI + pan is 56 quarts of oil, 25,000 miles between oil changes.

Is your dimmer switch turned down? Sorry I'm in an ask stupid questions mood! 😎

Dumb question: is your coolant level low?

There's probably a few temp choices when buying a thermostat. Cars are like that, you can choose 175°, 180, 185... No idea what choices Molvo gives you. If you're down south maybe the factory put in a cooler thermostat because you deal with hotter temps than we do up north. 180 is what I like my trucks to run at, but everything I have is '95 and older. My 95 RD pushes 200 a lot. Need to clean the radiator and intercooler.

Grade 8 is right, but Mack frames are assembled at the factory with "body bound" fine thread bolts, which are an oversized bolt in an undersized hole. All suspension, crossmembers, steering, cab mounts, fuel tank brackets, etc etc should be body bound bolts. Air valves and relays etc can be whatever the heck you want. I had an 01 Mack tractor that used "Huck" bolts for the air ride suspension. They're an approved alternative in some cases I assume.

I think it is a Mack color, I've got the same engine the same color on the shelf.

Note that I said gotta disassemble BEFORE it gets to cracking point. 3-5k per rail. So you're looking at 12-20k if it's a double frame, just in rails. Add in 1k in bolts, a few likely broken crossmembers, you're looking at 25k. If your rails are still good like ours were in the last one we did, why take on the extra expense? Our truck only gets 5-10k miles a year, never in salt, so we're going to get a few decades out of our rails.

You have the 56 qt oil pan that comes with the ESI+ package. 25,000 mile oil change interval. And an engine that'll run that long and then some between trips to the dealer. Standard came with with 1 filter, small oil pan. ESI came with bigger oil pan and 2 filters, ESI+ got the 56 qt oil pan and 3 filters. Wish I still had the intake plumbing to go with the hood scoop, but that went in the dumpster a long time ago....

😍 is that a real Mack? Or is that a custom??

Cat would be interesting, but I don't care for their engines. Others do, I don't. What made Mack legendary was their engine/trans/rears. They were engineered as a package. To make Mack what it was, you have to go back to that. Cat makes their own engines, I don't see them making their own transmissions and rears to stick in a "Mack". Im a Cummins guy, so I would like that, but Paccar sells a lot of Cummins, I don't think it'd be in Cummins best interest to compete with existing customers. I don't see Mack getting out from under Volvo's thumb. In a decade or two when my current fleet of Mack's starts to wear out I may have to start looking at other brands.... Heresy I know, but I don't know where Mack will be in 20 years, and we don't buy new, we buy 20 years old or older, and Volvo is already dropping etech stuff, so I don't see Volvo being a good support for my needs. I'll need a dealer with good support and that'll likely have a Cummins motor involved.

Thread is a good read, I was perplexed first time I saw a truck that didn't use 15w40 for steering fluid, but older Mack trucks are all I'd driven to that point. Gotta use what the manufacturer tells you to use, doesn't matter if you bought something else in bulk for other trucks.

KsCarbel2 lays out a pretty good argument, I'd agree. If Volvo wanted medium duty they'd just buy a medium duty company to to get into the market. I doubt they'd put any substantial effort into building the Mack brand. I assume they'd do it with their own name, unless they don't want bad PR for a shoddy roll-out.

Something like 85% of journalists are registered Democrats. That about sums it up! It's not news it's propeganda. The same that allowed Hitler and every other fascist rise to power.

In my short experience I've learned they accuse others of their own crimes. Case and point, Hilary managing to get waste of time investigation into Trump when she's the one who pandered to Russia. https://thehill.com/opinion/white-house/429292-the-case-for-russia-collusion-against-the-democrats Trump may not be a morally perfect guy, but he's no socialist pig. And for those who are angry that he hasn't gotten a wall built yet, stop sending he swamp dwellers to work with in Congress. He's not a king for 4 years, he can only do what the Constitution allows him to do. Congress and the Courts have to do their part.