tenfive0

I've had my CF-600 for 1-1/2 years and its been "time to fix up" since. It has been NOTHING THE EASY WAY.. Have you ever looked at something and say to yourself if I ever need to do that it will be a REAL PITA. Well that is the case with the radiator in my truck. I figured 48 years old perhaps the radiator might be an issue but I was hoping it wouldn't be. Have you ever heard the saying I feel much better since I've given up hope. Well that isn't the case. I have to be an odd ball and I like to be different but it all come at a cost. The radiator in a CF-600 is in the worst possible place imaginable buried and stuffed in the middle of the truck with no easy access. I guess should consider myself lucky because I've had a choice of about a half dozen different shops to do the re-core when the radiator is finally removed. After a few phone calls and interviews I've narrowed it down to a few shops I'd trust to do the work. Both are not small time operations mom and pop local shops. When I told one smaller shop the radiator has aluminum tanks he had no idea what I was talking about. Next on the list. I don't want to do this job twice and find out after I put the re-cored radiation in the truck it has a leak. Next on the list of "time to fix up" things that need to be done are the wiper motors. I tried removing the air lines and squirted WD-40 in the motors and air lines before reattaching. No Luck. The wiper might be slightly better but not by much. I looked at that wiper issue for the past 1-1/2 years and was hoping it wouldn't come down to removing and dismantling them but I've given up hope and I still don't feel any better.

My CF-600 sprung a radiator leak. Tried to find a new one but no luck. Finding a radiator shop for a re-core isn't to big or a problem at least in my area. Getting the radiator out for repairs is turning out to be a major PITA.

Kano Laboratories http://www.kanolabs.com/ Kroil You can buy it by the gallon.

I add Walmart two (2) stroke oil to my fuel every time I fill. I only use two (2) stroke for the claim and benefit of adding lubricity. It is blue in color so there is no worries about turning my fuel red. I don't know what if anything it does to prevent algae but if it helps as the OP might indicate then so much the better.. I notice when I do not use two (2) stroke in my Chevy 6.5 Diesel the pump and top end appears to clatter or make more noise. So far I've had no adverse side effects and one thing for certain there is mileage per gallon increase using the two (2) stoke oil as an additive. I'm not condoning, advising or advocating anyone the use of two (2) stroke as a diesel fuel additive but it appears or seems to work for me. I don't have any diesel powered equipment newer then 25 years old and it might NOT BE ADVISABLE to us two stroke oil in new equipment specifically designed for to use of Low Sulfur Fuel.

I've been using 2 stroke oil in all my diesel powered equipment for years with no adverse affects. I mix it at a rate of 1oz of oil per gallon of diesel.

I do not post here for approval from anyone or to validate anything I do to my truck. I'm just adding to the conversation for someone who might be pondering a Jake to drawl they’re on conclusion. I do not reside in the Rockies but I do in a valley on the south side of the Blue Ridge. Exiting off the interstate to my shop it is a downhill run most of the way with some steep hard curves. There is no way to avoid the hills so in my instance and opinion an exhaust or engine brake is a somewhat of a requirement to avoid gaining speed while descending. If not a Jake, then something else. I'm not considering it a novelty and perhaps it might not be a necessity, but it does add some functional cool factor however limited it might be.

Sharing a link that might be of interest to someone with a Jimmy. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/351362385535820/?ref=feed_rhc

I've only driven Mack Trucks during my career with either a straight 6 Maixdyne or Diesel Thermodyne. I have no other experience to share other than how effective a Jake is on either Mack Engines to draw a comparison from. All I can say is a Jake worked however ineffective they might be and the trucks I drove were better with them then without. Perhaps a Jake might work better on other engines but I wouldn't know. I think it’s worth the expense to at least entertain the thought of putting a Jake on my truck to hold it from running away downhill. I'm not looking or hoping to be put through the windshield I'd just like to avoid riding the brakes on some of the steeper hills here in Pennsylvania.

Attached pictures of a Bendix AD-9 I just picked up for my truck. I'm new to the air dryer thing. I don't know the difference between an AD-4 or an AD-9 but I thought a few pictures might help for a comparison.

Spicer 5 speed manual.

I know a Jake is not that effective on my specific engine but I'd like to have one just because. My truck didn't have a block heater and someone told me I don't need one, but I busted a nut adding a heater over last winter just because. My truck doesn't have an air dryer. I've been told by a few people I don't need one but I'm putting together the parts to ad one just because. All the older Mack's I've driven all had Jake's and some might say they really didn't need one but it just seems fitting my truck should have one too just because.

Looking for a Jocobs (Jake) Engine Brake for a 12 Valve ENDT-675.

Perfect (with pictures) exactly what I needed. I'll check it out when the cable arrives.

I have a 1972 retired CF-600 Firetruck that's been converted into a ramp truck to haul around vehicles. I bought the truck last August and there isn't a tachometer cable on the truck attached to the meter or engine. Yesterday evening I ordered a cable from the local dealer and asked the parts counter where the cable attaches to the engine and they directed me to the night service manager. The problem is my truck is older then both the parts associate and service manage by about 20 years. My truck is probably older then their ages combined. They where unfamiliar with a CF-600 Cab and perhaps unaware Mack even made Firetrucks. I tried to explain my Cad is sort of like a Mack F700 Cab Over but different with the Cab moved Forward. CF - Cab Forward, never mind. Nothing against the dealer and their parts and service departments they went out of their way to try and help but they can only offer what they know. Perhaps I might have educated someone but I doubt if it even matters. I guess they are busy enough trying to keep the new stuff on the road at $136.00 an hour labor. I'm assuming the attachment point is the same on perhaps all ENDT 675 engines irregardless the Cab. Any assistance where the cable attaches to the engine would be welcomed advise.

Do you think they CARE?

It wouldn't be surprised if the workers in Macungie show up for work one day and the gate is locked without any warning. Get your tools and go home. I've seen it happen to many times to US Industry. I hope the day never comes but it wouldn't be surprised at all if things got tough I wouldn't doubt Volvo to bail on Mack.

I was at my local Mack parts counter. We had a brief discussion about Renault and Volvo. He said it wasn't bad when Renault owned Mack but he said Volvo sucks. It seems to be the general consensus and I'll agree Volvo SUCKS. It appears to me Volvo is using Mack as a punching bag to keep the market share the name brings.

I had a 1937 Chevy two (2) door Sedan that had a 283 in it that was taken out of a bulldozer. Pretty sure a 283 engine was not original or stock in the bulldozer. I'm guessing a previous owner retro fitted the engine in the Dozer. Another die hard engine Chevy (GM) 283 Small Block. I can not say with 100% certainty but most if not all 283's were factory equipped with Power Pack Heads. Can't say at all what head was fitted to or on the Iron Duke.

I had know idea John Deere had any involvement with GM and the Iron Duke. That might explain why they were such a great little engine.

I was going to say tooth picks With a GOLD STAR.⭐

Ring-A-Ding-Ding! Do the Stegmaier Thing. I Did the Ring-A-Ding-Ding Thing - once. It rung my bell and I had a hang over for a week one day. Nice Truck but not so much on the beer.

Mack-Pierce, 1972 Mack CF-600 after Pierce Refurb. Not sure the exact (circa mid 1990's) year the truck was refurbed but it was still complete Mack Chassis and Running Gear. Great truck and I remember it fondly.

They build and sell COE over there. What about the States?

Upon closer inspection, before taking the window out it was noticeable cracked as shown. That is the left side the worst of the leaking. The screws being well lubricated from leaking is perhaps why they came out without to much difficulty. Not done yet. I ordered two (2) window kits still need to do the right side. My luck the right side will fight me all the way. I'll spray Kano Kroil on the screws overnight before trying to remove the right side. Any recommendation on what weight oil should be used in the hubs?