tenfive0

1051 - Horsham Fire Company No. 1 1972 CF-600, Snorkel.

My 1972 Mack CF-600 before it was decommissioned and taken out of service.

We're only rentin'um. This old iron will be around long after were all gone as long as there are those who are dedicated to preserving them.

1056, Horsham Fire Company No. 1 1969 Mack CF-600, 1000/500 Last I heard it is still in service with a Rural Dept. in Alabama.

I bought the truck the way it is. It's obvious someone has been into the wiring screwing around with things. Its short of hob cobbed, mixed matched with a lot of extra wires and bull crap that's not needed for civilian use in my opinion. I had another decommissioned Fire Truck 30 years ago that I stripped enough wires out of to fill a trash can. Like I said I need to do some further investigating to short it all out before moving forward. The truck has four (4) 12 volt batteries. Only two (2) of the four (4) batteries are currently hooked up. The two (2) batteries in use are hooked up (parallel) negative negative, positive positive. It is a 12 volt system and the parallel switches are broken, bypassed and not hooked up at all. I was contemplating replacing the parallel switches but I'm just going to leave them disconnected and remove them off the truck and not replace or use them at all. The truck starts the way it is the way it is currently wired. I just need to figure out whats up with it all to make it safe, reliable and not overly complicated.

I was at the Mack Museum yesterday and I picked up a wiring schematic for my Truck the way it was wired when it left the factory. At this time I'm not sure if the truck is still hooked up positive ground. It might have been changed by a previous owner. Now that I have a schematic I need to do some further investigating. If it is positive ground it will stay that way for now but I have concluded to losing the parallel switches in an effort to simplify things.

I always mix 1oz per gallon 2 stroke oil with low sulfur diesel fuel and use anti-gel conditioner in the winter. Interesting, I'm curious to find out more about an accumulator tank.

I'm local to the Museum and it has been a great resource while shorting out issues with my 1972 CF-600 Cab and Chassis. Visited them yesterday with a gearhead friend and we both came away with a warm and fuzzy feeling of satisfaction. It reinforced my decision to pursue the efforts into making my truck into a reliable asset for both business and pleasure.

More good advise.. It has a manual shot off. I'm getting ready to do an oil and coolant change with new filters along with a new fuel filter before it gets to cold. I hate diesel cold weather starts and try to avoid all unnecessary use during extreme cold conditions. My 6.5 is a pooch and it sounds like it's going to come apart starting it during cold weather. I can't always avoid using the truck because it is for business use.

I can keep my CF garaged in my shop but there is no heat 24/7. I only have the heat on when I'm working. During non working hours the heat is off because it would cost me a small fortune to heat the place when I'm not there. I've owned few Dodge Cummins Diesels. I currently have a 1994 Chevy Heavy Duty with a 6.5 Diesel. The Cummins had a pre-start heat cycle without glow plugs. If I plugged in the Cummins during cold weather the start sequence didn't involve the heat cycle. The 6.5 has glow plugs that have to be used whenever I start the truck summer or winter plugged in or not. I only plug in the Chevy during cold weather when needed and I'd only plug it the Mack when needed. I wouldn't leave either plugged in the entire winter. Thanks for the advise. I didn't know what to expect and I wasn't sure how the Mack would react with the cold winter months approaching when I'd need to start it.

Very nice Trucks. My CF-600 Cab and Chassis repurposed and saved from the scraper.

New to me 1972 CF-600. Bought the truck over this past summer and there are no current issues with starting it in warmer or hot weather. I'm a retired Firefighter / Driver Operator and at the time our department exclusively only ran Mack CF-600's. Our trucks were ALL WAYS kept plugged in, in a heated garage. We never had to deal with our trucks being left out in the cold. They were always warm and cozy. I do not have the luxury of keeping my truck in a heated garage over the winter. I plan on not running the truck much in the winter but I want to be able to start it to move it if I have to. I'm not familiar with the cold weather start cycle if there is one. Never gave it much thought when I was with the fire department because cold weather starting was never an issue. We just got in the truck turned the switches on and pushed the buttons. Is there a heat cycle of glow plugs associated with an ENDT675? Is there a safe and reliably sequence to starting the engine during cold weather that I should be aware of? There is a plug on the driver side bottom jump seat area of the dog box. I'm assuming it is for a block heater. Do I just keep the truck plugged in and not worry?

I could see the confusion. I would commonly call the heads on a 348 or 409 W-Heads. Chevy Small Block Fuelie Heads is what I think of when talking about Double Hump or Camel Hump Heads.

Chevy 348 and 409 were W-series Mark I Big Block Engines and they wouldn't have had Double Hump / Fuelie Heads. Double Hump / Fuelies heads were only available on Chevy Small Block Engines.

I'm looking for a CF-600 smooth Front Grill Panel without a hole in it for a siren or front intake. Also the left driver side part of the three piece (3) chrome bumper.

What is the advantage on non-advantage of Positive Ground? I'm a retired Firefighter and I started my career hanging on to a grab rail riding the tailboard of CF-600. I have a 1972 CF-600 that has been converted to a Tilt Bed Ramp Truck. I'm perplexed in which direction to head in with fixing some of its wiring issues that I inherited with the truck. It has a four (4) 12 volt batteries, two (2) Parallel Switches and Cole Hersee switch. Originally from the factory the truck had four (4) 6 volt batteries. Someone has been doing some creative thinking and rewiring. I have a wiring schematic that I got form the Mack Museum sent to me via email that I need to study. I'm local to Allentown, PA and I'm not proficient with the computer. I'm going to revisit the Museum to pick up a hard copy of the schematic. Before I bought the truck it was having an issue with starting. The previous owner was banging on the Parallel Switches with a rubber mallet and he broke both Switches. He had someone wire the starter directly eliminating the Switches. I have to do some tracing and rewiring but I’m not sure which way to head. Should I eliminate the Parallel Switches all together? Should I switch the entire system to negative ground? I’m planning on adding a 12,000 pound electric winch to the bed to assist loading vehicles and equipment. It would be nice to have or keep two (2) banks of 12 volt batteries. I like to do what I can to have durability and reliability.

Toms River, Island Heights, NJ - now privately owned, under went cosmetic reconstructive surgery and semi retirement in Pennsylvania