Mackpro

Low oil temp will cause water to codense in the oil. You want the oil temp to get above the boiling temp of water (212 degrees)so it can evaporate the water. There is a Mack service bulletin on this. I see alot of guys complaine that their oil temp is to high. Your oil temp should run 45degrees hotter that your coolant temp. On farm truck and short hauls the oil temp might not get up high enough or stay up long enough to "steam"the water out. Might have to change the oil more often. If you have a air fan clutch,you can have the fan programed (ETECH engines) to come on at 205 and off at 195, thats how we set them here and seems to help.

Your ETECH EM7-300 puts out 300HP/1425 ft ibs of torque, a normal E7-300 puts out 300/1160, the next real jump up would be to go to a E7-400 400hp/1460 ft lbs. This would involve bigger injectors, bigger turbo, removing cam and installing a offset key way in the cam gear and software downloads ( I dont know that Mack Specs would bump up the HP to 400 on an MR). I know the MR radiators cant keep that (400 HP) cool. I would stay with what you got. I would adjust the valves, check the fuel pressure( 100psi), install a new set of injectors, check turbo boost pressure under a load (16-22psi) and take it to a Mack dealer and have them install the newest software in both ECM's.

If you have an ETECH engine (98 and up EUP engine) check the the wire screen filter in the blow/by canister mounted on the front timing cover. Remove the wire screen (lid unscrews)and see if its milky or gooey. We see this alot, liners leak antifreeze into oil pan and it plugs up the blow-by screen and the the blow-by goes out the vent on the filter stand and pushes oil with it.

We are a Mack Dealer here and Kenworth is killing us the off road/dumptruck new sales. We cant hardly sell a GU, our customers that used to buy Macks are now buying Kenworths due to the MP engines having a rash of camshaft failures(and injector cup failures too) and they were around when the ETECH engine had all their cams going out, they just didnt trust the MP engine.

Whats your MID #, SID/PID/PPID# and FMI#. Hundreds of different code possiblities.

When we get a used truck in with one of thoes APADS boxes on it , we take it off and throw it away. One of the worst things I have ever seen mack put on a truck. If you dont have an air fan clutch its real easy to remove. Just unplug all the connectors from the APDS going to the engine harness, You should now only have 3 plugs, 1 single wire plug for the compressor, 1 double wire plug for the switch on drier and another double wire plug for the high pressure sensor (for air fan clutch only) on the line between the drier and condensor. Sometimes you have to buy an new drier to condensor line that has a place for the high pressure switch(only if you have an air fan clutch). Buy a factory standard high/low pressure switch and install on the drier and plug it in and thats it. If you have a air fan clutch you also need the high pressure switch. I can get you part# if you want. The APADS turns the standard simple mack a/c wiring into a nightmare.

When the MP engines came out, we had to use the new Mack/volvo VCADS software to read codes, do programing, ect, ect. It was a P.O.S. and we had all kinds of problems. I was on the phone with volvo IT alot and they were all very nice and helpfull. We would be on the phone sometimes for an hour with them to get things fixed. I actually have more faith in them than I do with the new One Call/ volvo Tech Support. But what she said was not cool and I hope she learned her lesson. With the VCADS issue, there was a rumor going around that volvo made the "Mack only" VCADS with errors in it on purpose so the Mack dealers would have to call volvo IT to get it fixed. Then Mack would get charged $$$ by volvo IT to fix it's own screw up. The fist thing volvo IT ask you when they answer the phone is "whats your dealer code" and if its a Mack dealer "get the meter running".

We have seen this alot, loose yoke on back of trans, remove MPH sensor and see if you can spin tone wheel with a screwdriver. We see it alot with Mack trans and a couple times with fullers. Did have one with shorted out tail lights sending 12Volts back up brake/turn signal wires and computer thinks your hitting the brake. Goodluck

Factory spec for that year is 29-37 psi of boost at full load. Take the truck to a Mack Dealer and tell them you want the "throttle responce program" downloaded on the VECU ( and they will calibrate the throttle pedal) and any new software/datafile for the engine and vehicle ECM's. Its a free download from Mack, you should only pay labor, 2 hrs max. We do this to all AI engines and it make a big difference. It helps with the poor throttle responce between the gears. Most AI 427 and AI460 are the exact same engines but with different datafiles for different HP levels. The dealer can submitt a HP conversion request form to Mack, sometimes its just a free download to up it to 460HP, + labor to install program of course. However I did have a 2005 CT713 with a AI427 and requested a HP conversion to 460 HP and was denied, I called the engineer and he said on some AI's they couldn't bump up because of EPA reasons? Good Luck

Dealer has to redownload the datafiles in the VECU to clear out the passwords. The EECU (engine ecu) might have a password in it too so I would have both redownloaded to clean them out. We do it all the time here.

We saw this compalint alot years ago, I think your OK, see attached service buliten

We have a few around here and the only difference that I have seen is the interior. Better sterio, built in cell phone, different guages, seat covers, door panels, steering wheel and console.

This is one of the best , most true post I have seen in awhile. I have worked at a Mack Dealer for 22years now. The EPA is the one killing us not Volvo. However I dont like Volvo (or Volvo trucks)owning Mack but thats out of our control. As far as the MP engines go, I would go out and order a new one today if I needed a truck. The bugs have finally been worked out (new injector cup washers, new roller rockers, 7th injector purge kit and other updates) We have sold several GU's that stay local and we do nothing but regular oil changes on them. I hate to say this and will probably get laughed at and booed but if Mack was going to get bought by someone and forced to use their engine, I wish it was Hino (Toyota, I think) Their DPF engines are awesome and I wish we were a dealer. I have said many times that if Hino built a class 8 large truck, it would put them all out of business.

My 1984 Mack tune up book does list the 4VH but the 1983 tune up book does not. My 1989 book does still list the E6 2 valve motor but I'm missing my 1990 book and the 1991 book makes no metion of the E6 2V. I have most of the Mack tune up books from 1972 and up and there handy.

As far as oil supply line to the econovace, do you have a small steel line from the engine block (below the fuel pump) to the econovance or do you have a larger braided hose(stratoflex) that comes from around the front of the engine around the alternator area to the econovance?

You measure from the bottom of the frame flange to the bottom of the Z-spring (Z-spring its self, not the plate it sits on),This should be done on the front drive axle(either side OK) it should be 4 and 1/4 inches. Make sure you have at least 100psi air and brakes released. I would say put the washer/shims back in the orignal location

I just ordered another laptop through Mack. "Toughbook" with all software already loaded, it was $4100.00 and that was with out the interface to hook to the truck. We have had our other "Toughbook" for almost 4 years and it has been great, it was worth the money. What really bad is there are no troubleshooting books for 2008 and up engines, it all on the software on the computer.

A year or so ago I posted a thread with pics of a 2000 CX613 with a regular ETECH engine with a home made propane injection system on it. It was in the shop for a service, didnt get to talk to the owner or driver about preformance or MPG.

Its not that the injector line is leaking , its the o-rings on the injector it self that are leaking. The injectors have o-rings on them to keep the "return fuel" (fuel the injector dosent use) in a certain area so it can pass through drilled passages in the head and get returned back to the fuel tank. When the o-rings get damaged or go bad the return fuel rises up and into the area where the injector line comes through the side of the head and meets the injector and the fuel has no where to go but pass the threads on the injector line and down the side of the engine. We see this all the time. In the 2002 and up CCRS and ASET engines there is no fuel return in the heads/injectors.

All the Mack tune-up spec books I have looked at "1996-2004 "says 33 psi is about the max boost pressure you should see for a 427 HP engine. I think the ASET "AC' engine might be higher but the ASET "AI dump truck" version should still be around 33 max. I would say anything above 30 psi is good. However I have seen and drove trucks that put out more than what the specs say. I have seen alot of blown intake manifold gaskets on 99-03 engines( mostly around #1 cylinder) and air compressor intake piping problems that leak boost pressure.

Heres the wirig to the fan clutch

The fan clutch you have is the Behr electric viscous fan clutch, made in germany. Unlike the air fan clutches, it never really totaly "freewheels", its always turning. With the engine off and key off, grab the fan blade and try to turn it, if its so "locked up" that it slips the belts or you cant turn it, it's bad and you need a new fan clutch. When you start it up, the fan should be engaged and roaring for around 10 minutes at 1100-1500 rpm then slowly the roaring will get softer and softer and the fan will disengage, this is normal. I have seen the AC high side pressure switch and wiring be bad and cause the fan to stay engaged. I dont belive there is a "fan relay'" all the wires come from the engine ECU.

For a 1999-2000 Etech 460 and 460XT(490HP) the Mack tune-up book says 27-35psi. The 460XT is the exact same engine/turbo/injectors just different download and a 100 Ftlbs more torque.

I dont remember the problem on the older E-7's, I have only seen it happen on the ETECH style engines, including the ASET's.

The bottom stud hole on the exhaust manifold is drilled all the way into the push tube hole. Oil can leak past the threads, so like fjh said, remove the stud and put some good silicone on it but put it back in at the same depth because we have seen them go in to deep and hit the push tube. I have also seen people put to much silicone on the stud and it gets pushed into the push tube cavity and blocks off oil to the roller lifter or gets between the push tube and lifter and causes a miss in engine. We put the silicone on the stud starting about an 1/4" from the end of the stud.