Mackpro

To get to the filter, you remove the 2 screws in the cup holder (1 screw where each cup goes) lift up the top part of the cup holder. Then remove the 2 screws that hold the lower part of the cup holder to the AC/Heater cover/panel. Then you will see 2 more screws that go into the cover/panel, remove those as well. Then remove the 4 or 5 screws down the passenger side of the cover/panel and the 1 or 2 on the driver side of the cover. The cover will come off, ( the cover and unit has a alinment pin in the bottom that go over each other) then you can see the blue screen/filter on the passenger side of the unit, pull it out and wash it out. Kinda a pain in the butt to get at but when clean makes a big difference in AC performance.

That's confirms what I found with the "export" trucks, when we pull up the axle and spring arrangments in Mack parts it really dont tell us what rating the springs are. There are 5 different steer axle springs for the CXN, 12K standard with or without grease fittings, 12K heavyduty with or without grease fittings (as per Mack Service Bulletin I found)and then one part # for the 14K spring (does not say with grease fittings) Thanks for the VIN. Also your truck has an active recall for the fuel injector lines, Recall # SC324, you might already have the new injector lines installed due to another repair, like replacing exhaust manifold gaskets.

There are several retrofit DPF's for trucks out there. http://cumminsemissionsolutions.com/retrofit.html for one, Mack even endorses one on their website, Huss Retrofit is recommened by Mack but they cant even make their website stay up! http://www.motortrend.com/features/newswire/41570/index.html. I think $1500 to 2500 wont touch a total install. FJH, have you went to the Mack SCR school yet? We had guys there this week in Chicago and next week in Atlanta. I'am setting out on this SCR stuff as my brain is full!

I would like to see someone get one installed for $1200 to $2500!

Just the last 6 would be great. I thing I found some VIN's. Looks like back in 2005 Mack exported 150 CXN's to Venezuela, They had (I think) 14k steer axles and Mack 18 speed trannys. Like to look up your VIN to compare, Thanks!

This is for a CD/radio but I think the controls are the same, hope it helps.

We are looking for the VIN of a CXN613 with a 14,000 # steer axle springs. We are changing them over to the heavier springs due to being converted to a RV/motorhome. Thanks for any help!

Look under the center top of the dash where your CB would set, a triangle shape cover with 3 screws. should be a small piece of paper with fuse location on the cover, if not I can post the fuse chart location.

Here is the diagram, If you can figure it out your better than us. Starting with the CXP, CTP, and all Macks with the MP engine, they switched over to the Volvo style wiring diagrams and they are horrible it read. The older diagrams my 8 year old could read and understand.

Replace the big solinoid that is right in front of the fuse panel. This powers up everything that is turned on with the key switch. They carry alot of amps/heat so after a few years they start kicking out. They naturally get hot enough that you cant hold your hand on for to long (this is normal). We replace 1 or 2 a week. They made a couple different styles by many different vendors. Some of the first were black plastic, most now are round metal. Be sure to get one from a Mack dealer, we have some trucks come in with Ford starter solonoids on them, they dont last long.

I guess it was the first ETECH's , later thay came out with a download and we were told to remove the resistor. SL210013 Pub Type: Letter Group Code: 210 Number: SL210013 Former Number: Date: 10/23/1998 Model: E-TECH™ ENGINE Title: ENGINE MISFIRE — E-TECH™ ENGINE Engine Misfire — E-Tech™ Engine In certain vehicle applications and operating environments, a temporary engine misfire with accompanying white smoke may be experienced on some E-Tech™ engines. This condition will generally be noticed when the engine is idling with the coolant temperature in the normal operating range, and little or no cooling air flow across the charge air cooler. It may also be noticed when a loaded vehicle accelerates after a momentary stop (such as stopping for a traffic signal, toll booth, etc.). To eliminate this condition, an engine ECU service data file has been developed by Mack Trucks, Inc. To receive the appropriate data file, a request must be made to the District Service Manager serving your location. Other means of correcting this misfire condition, such as installing a resistor, must not be used. Additionally, any trucks which have had a resistor installed, must have the resistor removed, and the engine ECU must be reprogrammed with the proper service data file. To summarize, the following procedures must be used to correct an engine misfire as described above: Contact your DSM and request to have the engine ECU data file activated. Use MackNet to download the engine ECU service data file from the MACK Mainframe. Program the engine ECU with the new service data file. Upload the verification file to the MACK Mainframe. Remove the resistor if one had been previously installed.

Yours is a ETECH 460 with a Jacobs brake. Does the engine brake work good when it's cold (first 5-8 miles)? If it does it needs the external oil line kit installed for more oil pressure to Jakes. There are some other upgrades as well.

It was a 680 ohm resistor in the intake air temp sensor wiring, that was so long ago I cant rembember if it was the first E-TECH's in 1998/99 or the VMAC II's electric pump engines around 1996. Hopefully Bobo will remember more as well.

I just pulled up the Turbo warranty and it's now only 1 year 100K. see attached PDF file. WA-2007-015 Borg Warner Turbocharger Service Parts Warranty Change (Aug. 28, 2007).pdf

The wires for the pryo are not there, you have to add them, I usually make my own harness and wire it into the VECU inside the cab. The wire/plug for the boost pressure should be there right behind the EECU (engine computer)just add the sensor. Then you have to take it to a Mack dealer and they will go into the VMAC online (Mack Mainframe)and turn on both sensors and reflash and reprogram both ECM's. I'm not a fan of factory pryometers due to constant problems with sensors and wiring harness. You can make your own boost pressure sensor set up easy. Just a low pressure air guage 0-50 psi and put it in a single guage pod from Summit or Jegs, run you a 1/4" plastic air line to the intake manifold, cheap and easy.

I'll look into it for warranty monday morning.

Most all Mack garbage trucks (MR and LE) around here have the Haulmaxx. They claim less maintance and easy to replace pads but not very good off road performance. I like the Mack but thats all I have ever known.

I work for the same shop in Paducah. Yours is a pre-ETECH engine aint it? The engine brake on thoses are somewhat trouble free. There are 2 different lash settings on thoses brakes , one is .085" but I cant remember the other. There are some upgrades to those I think. Wonder if the freeze plug fell out of the rocker arm shaft on yours? It happens on alot of ETECHs with the Jacobs brake. The broken rocker arm shafts only happen on the ASET's with the Powerleash brake.

I can give you the # of a good plastic surgon in Nashville that retourqued my wifes top end. Nice "D" now.

Mack 3P is right, the MID 136 means ABS problem. The 5050-14 is probably really a "S" 050-14 which means SID 50 and FMI 14 If I was at work I would have my ABS book and could tell ya what it means.

We have several trucks with the oil leak and the ones out of warranty keep on trucking. Look at the date on the turbo replacment ticket and I will look up the ASET reman turbo warranty and see if we can get it covered. I will send in a warranty E-service to see what Mack's offical word on the problem is. I would like to check out your engine brake as well. Not to scare you but I had a cracked rocker arm shaft last week that caused your same problem.

We have had a rash of reman ASET AC turbos leak oil as you describe. It seems to leak where the center section bolts on to the rear exhaust section (by the actuator). It is never a bad oil leak, just a little drip onto the frame rail. I will have to check on warranty on the purchased turbo. Do you have the reciet of where it was bought and/or put on? You must have the reciet. Also did you change to a different brand of oil than what was used before? We had a ASET that we sold new and always used Mack bulldog oil, the truck got traded in and we resold it and the new customer changed over to Rotella and the engine started using oil like crazy. We switched back to Bulldog oil and no problems. I know Shell Rotella is one of the best oils out there but this engine didnt like it.

The password could be anything. The former customer must have had a password put in at a dealer. The truck dosen't come with a password from the factory. A Mack dealer can redownload the ECU and erase the password, usually takes less than an hour.

Here is the wiring diagram for a 84 and up MH

Today we were ordering/specing out a new CHU 505HP MP8 with SCR, the new Mack rears were a $5000+ option over the Rockwell rears. While I hate dealing with Meritor/Rockwell or Eaton warranty, I could not convence the customer to go with the new Mack rears. I didnt get a chance to check the weight savings of the new Mack rears.