Mackpro

The Mack bulldog oil is made by Exxon Mobil and is good oil. Rotella is good oil also but I have seen changing over to Rotella after using another brand can cause some weird problems.

Wonder if it's factory? Being metal instead of plastic is good!

I only live just a couple miles from Show-Me's but never been there yet. A couple of our Techs went there today for lunch and said it "looked" nice.

Just noticed your grill doesn't say MACK on it? I see that grill on UPS trucks and other fleet trucks. Was it on there when you got it?

Hell, I'm heading to Motel 6 tommorow for lunch to see that!

I really dont like the looks of any hood/fender mirrors BUT I wouldn't drive a truck with a trailer without them. They are a must have for the long trailers you guy's pull. I do see them on dump trucks but I think you could get by without them. Maybe one day they will perfect a camera system with heads up display. We have a new GU813 just delivered (Rebublic Waste) with a roll off body that has cameras looking down both sides of the truck but you still have to look at that small display screen to see anything.

A MH with a E-9 500HP pulled in the bay next to Bigen's truck, If I could have swapped the engines between the two I think Bigen would be a happy man.

We are in western KY, we are a very small dealer with 2 other dealerships in surrounding states.

Wish I had a beter camera because it's a really sharp Rawhide CHN!

Bigen finally made it to the shop, Hope to get him up to snuff on the matainance and upgrades.

Is the fues panel red or black?

Look back for to other post about same problems. There is a software and datafile for this problem, we do it all the time, it's called the "step 12B program with throttle pedal calibration". A good Mack dealer should know how to do it. Free download from Mack but you will have to pay for the labor to install it. Check out this post/thread http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=11429

FJH has few trucks running with block off plates with mixed results, haven't heard from him in a few days, hope he has some good news. My approch was to completly remove EGR valve, EGR cooler, mass flow pipe and oil lines and coolant lines to these componets ( to save weight, 60 lbs) . The only thing left would be the Mass flow ECM (behind engine ECM). With resistors plugged into the mass flow ECM I could fool the EGR flow and EGR temp (these make up the Mass Flow sensor/pipe) into thinking it had some flow and a OK temp. The engine ECM looks at "target" EGR flow (what flow should be) and compares it with the "actual" flow (read from the Mass flow sensor) . If actual flow is 10pounds or more than target flow it sets a code (stuck open EGR valve probably). If the actual flow is 10 pounds less that the target flow it sets a code (plugged EGR cooler probably). The trick is to get a happy medium. I have made many trips to Radio Shack for resistors. Haven't given up yet but only get to work on it a few hours a week due to a full shop of broke trucks.

Fisrt thing I was gonna say was replace the power relay in front of the fuse panel but that has already been done. With the engine running wiggle the big round gray plug at the fuel pump and see if engine dies, reves up or almost dies. Could be RH engine wiring harness or injection pump.

Turn the cruise on/off button to off/down, then press and hold the acel button (next to the on/off) then release, watch the yellow malfunction light and count the flashes, should flash out a 2 diget code.

When I pulled your truck up in the Mack parts system it said it had be converted to a 400 HP. I then went to the software/engine site and found it was still a 355/380. Which is good because the 355/380 puts out 1560 ft lbs of torque (same as a 427), the 400HP puts out 1460 ft lbs of torque. If I was going to change I would go to a 460 and get the 1660 ft lbs.

Your truck needs the turbo, injectors, download and the cam gear key way changed. Its ashame as you just had your cam out and they could have cahnged the key way and bumped the HP to 460. Here is a chart I made for the ETECH only engines showing the difference in engine parts per HP. I have different list for the CCRS style ETECH and the ASET-AC and AI versions.

Any certain area, my diagram is quite large, I can copy the part you need and post it here.

Last 6 of the vin and I can tell you exactly what you need. Best guess right now, you would need turbo, injectors, download and possible off set key way on the camshaft (to prevent overheating). We do alot of HP conversions here at our shop.

There could be some truth to that. The EUP pumps do leak some fuel into the oil pan, this is normal but if you change your oil as recommended it should never get to the level that would thin the oil out enough to cause a problem. There have been EUP failures that have dumped lots of fuel into the pan but your hot idle oil pressure would be so low it would set the low oil pressure code.

Back in the early ETECH days we would have as many as 3-4 cam jobs going on at the time. The newer cam kits have better roller lifters for improved oiling. Yours probably has the steel rollers they latter changed to cermaic rollers which lasted lcnger but any excesive valve lash (broken rocker arm, rocker arm shaft, rocker arm bolts or bent push tube) would crack them and they would fail as well. From what I've see engine brake makes no diffence on how long they last. Sadly it's just the nature of the beast.

I assume he was ok!

I'm ready, let me know when, I have a MP8 turbo coming in on Tuesday but can call him and have him come in another day. Other than than that the whole week is open.

Time to chrome it up, on a side note, we (Bossman) just ordered a new 2011 CHU with MP8 505HP ( has SCR) I cant wait to slap some some chrome on it.

Wow, I love it, Axle forward CH's of all years are my fave. I missed out on what happened to his 09 CXU?