Mackpro

Your year model is tricky because it could be either a VMAC1 or VMAC2 (engine electronics), all fuses and ECM's are in the cab on both models( unlike the ETECH style engine). VMAC1 had nothing to do with engine fan control, the fan control was kinda added on and not really part of the VMAC system.It had it's own 2 prong sending unit ontop of the water manifold, the degrees stamped on the sensor tells what temp it will engage(usually around 205) . When VMAC2 came out, it controlled the fan on/off. It used the existing temp sensor for the ECM to decide when to turn on the fan. The dealer could also raise and lower the engagement temp with a prolink computer. Both systems still used the same fan clutch and solinoid. Which light is coming on red shutdown or yellow electronic malfunction? If it's both it's the low water sensor or wiring to the sensor or really has low coolant. Is your metal radiator cap on the radiator itself or on an overflow/surge tank in the fire wall? Forgot to mention, love your truck, Alxe forward CH's are my faavorite! One of the best ones I ever drove was a 1990 with a E-7 400hp manual fuel pump, the old man that taught me all about Macks cranked the rpms and fuel to it and it was a screamer. The second best was a 1996 with a E-7 454hp it was awesome as well.

They dont use the middle o-ring any more. You have to ask for the special Delta o-ring kit, part# 1899-O71356 or reffer them to Mack service bulletin SB221038 In the kit the top oring is the same but the bottom o-ring has a triangle shaped o-ring with 2 plastic rings on either side.

We had a 99 RD that had the EUP bolts broken on a cylinder and the EUP damanged the block where the O-ring seals in the block and fuel would leak by into the oil pan. We had to take some JB Weld and (with customers approval) and repair the gouge and install the new style "Delta 3 piece lower O-ring" as per Mack service bulletin.

The o-rings on the EUP's are probably leaking fuel into the oil pan. Did you replace the o-ring's on the EUP's that popped out? The "Mack" cam kit for the ETECH engine has the new upgraded EUP bolts included in it. Hope he put them in and not tossed them.

That might be alittle high, I figure at worst you would need a turbo ( plus a wrecker call for a popped turbo), EGR cooler, Mass Flow sensor/tube, exhaust manifold gaskets and a couple EUP pumps every 300-400K miles . However I have seen most trucks go longer with less problems. We have a local fleet (20 trucks) with 2005-06 CXN's and they bought the factory extended warranty and it really paid off down the road. I see EUP's as the most common problem.

All our DPF issues are with the ENCOM style that are on the MRU's and LEU's. The DPF's on the CXC, CHU and GU are totally different and usually dont cause problems. I do all the warranty claims here at our dealer and I would think the warranty would cover that or I would try to get our DSM to cover it if the customer bought the truck from us and was a long time customer. Not that many parts on a Mack are made in China, I know the cast turbo outlet pipe on the 07 emission MP engine is made there and like you said some bearings come from there also.

I would be close to being done with this EGR removal project but I keep getting MRU's and LEU's in the shop with DPF issues, 6 days a week for the last 6 weeks, thats all I have been doing.

We have an 04 on the lot that I have been eyeballing to experiment with but it might be gone soon. We sell lots of used trucks, we got in 4 used "Flying J" trucks on Monday and 3 are already sold and we sold another plain white CX this week too. 98% of what we sell are non-sleeper tractors to farmers and a few dump trucks and garbage trucks. Seems like every farmer in a hundred of here has 1 or more Mack's. We try to buy up used fleet trucks in the 2003 pre emission years, sometimes we buy as many as 25 or more at time. If we do get in a sleeper truck in on trade our body shop takes the sleeper off and our frame guy shortens the wheelbase and sell it as a daycab. It's been a good year for us in the used truck dept. My friend's 2 new GU's just got built and ready for dump beds. His 2 trucks might be the only new trucks we will sell this year.

This would be "for testing purposes only" not to be left on the engine WINK WINK. Thats my EPA disclaimer! I wanted to totally remove the EGR valve and oil lines to and from EGR valve, remove EGR cooler and mass flow sensor pipe, block off EGR valve and intake manifold connection. The only thing left would be the mass flow ECM behind the engine ECM with my plug-in with resistors. This would lighten up truck 40 lbs

I'm still working on a EGR system removal kit. Got the Mass Flow ECM plug with attached resistors to fool the ECM. The ECM will think that the EGR temp and flow are correct. Got the resistors from Radio Shack . Just been super busy around here. Boss man said I could try it out on one of the 04's when I get ready.

Dont feel bad we had a MRU brought into the shop on 1/6/10 and we finally got it fixed and out on 1/29/10. It had bad DPF problems, we dont know what we did to fix it other than throw lots of parts at it, but we go it done. The MRU and LEU (mostly garbage trucks) have a totally different DPF system on them due to low exhaust temp because of stop and go driving.

We ran into several 2000 Macks that did this. It turned out to be the starter solnoid on the starter. Mack came up with a service bulletin about it, sometimes it would set a 9-2 code but most time it happened so fast it didnt set a code. In a hard pull the engine would lean to the right and a pin inside the sarter solnoid would fall over and short out the battery cable/power supply and this would kill the engine and then the engine would lean back the other way and the pin would fall back away from the power supply and engine would run OK. This only happened on the big Delco starters not the little foreign made starters (those would just catch fire and burn the truck down)

This was true, it was a Y2K glitch in the Mack software. We only had a few trucks do it here and a software download fixed it.

Foe the most part the DPF's on the CHU/CXU and GU's have few problems. Sometimes on the 08 and early 09 versions that dont have the air purge/self cleaning 7th injector tou have to clean the soot off the 7th injector once or twice a year. The newer 09 and up have fewer problems. Engine issues cause most DPF problems, Bad turbo's, stuck EGR valve, over fueling/cracked injector can flood the DPF with soot or lack of air to burn out the soot. It can be a real pain to figure out. It's not a every day thing but it does happen. We have see this enough now to kinda know what to look for. Good luck and I hope they get it fixed soon.

Make sure the H-ring is straight and not turned or to high. The H-ring is the sleeve that is drove down into the block, it holds the lifter straight. Alot of the time if the engine is run enough with a bad lifter it will beat the H-ring up to high in the block or turn sideways. You can check it by pulling all the push tubes out the put a straight edge on top of the heads and running a welding rod down to the H-ring, then mark the H-ring height on the welding rod to the straight edge. Compare the heights to the bad lifter H-ring. If it is high sometimes you can drive it down with a punch otherwise you have to pull the head and install a new one. good luck.

Let me seek what I can up with later tonight

We are a Mack dealer and we sell chrome steel bumpers from Hendrickson for around $850 and new plastic Mack bumper is over $1000.

I think I could do those cam jobs in my sleep. The first round of cam jobs sucked because Mack wanted us to also change the cam bearings, then changed it to only if you can hang your fingernail on #2 and #5 bearing. Then the round of cam jobs where the locating pin on the EUP's rollers broke off in the block and the roller spun around and took out the cam. Thoses days are behind us I hope. Now its just when the rocker arm hold down bolts break and the driver keeps driving and bust the ceramic roller lifter and messes up the cam. I'm running the overhead on an CV with an AI in it as we speak and I'm replacing the bolts as per Mack service bulletin so I dont have to put a cam in this one later.

Anything "Howes" is good stuff. One of my best customers uses many of their products and he is very picky about anything he uses on his trucks. I use Lucus fuel treatment my personal cars, trucks and boats but none are diesel.

If I had all the money our shop made off me doing cam jobs on ETECH's I would retire today!

Probably a cam roller locking up and dragging on the cam lobe. We called it the "E-TECH Squeak". We could here the truck pull up to the shop and before the customer walked in the door the parts guys would be looking to see if we had a cam kit. Usually does it when hot and sometime only when you rev it up. Drop the pan and carefully look over the cam and reach up and feel the rollers.

Truck not speced correctly, as in wrong axle ratio, tire size and transmission. Any of these are not right it could throw the engine out of its HP/tourqe range. Also as FJH said it could be just a low power problem! What year/ engine style.

Glad you found it. The new ASET thermostat kit has 2 different thermostat's, one opens at 180 and the other at 185, that way they dont both open at the same time and cause a surge of coolant that causes coolant push. Also they have thicker O-rings so the thermostat housing dosent get a cold water leak in the winter time. Also we have seen the thermostat hitting the water manifold when installed. Mack says replace the water manifold with a new style with more clearance but we use a die grinder to make room. It wasnt an offical service bulletin but something the engineers sent me a few years ago. If I find it I will post it.

I was on my way up to Chicago to go to Mack school the first time I saw one installed, It was on a small fleet truck CX613, this was back in 2004 when we couldn't keep fan belts on the ASET engines. When I got back home I call our DSM and like I said above, he gave me the info. The CX I saw, had only one scoop and it was about 4 inches tall and 12 wide and 16 inches long. It was over on the passenger side of the hood up towards the windshield with the opening was towards the windshild. The scoop info our DSM sent us was also a CX but best I remember it had 2 small narrow scoops that were short, they were made by a vendor of Mack. I think it was Lund who built Macks sunvisors. It looked something like this http://www.lundlook.com/lund_car_product_detail_objectname_Medium_Pair_car.aspx I think the scoops were to let the hot underhood heat out not really for extra air intake, I dont think they were ducted into the intake passage in the hood. Of the 500+ email's I have over the years from Mack , I cant find this one.