Mackpro

A few more pics.

Yes exactly what 85superdog said. Both ECMs need to be updated (step 12B program). Fuel pressure tested and boost pressure tested under a load to make sure they are in specs. Also what trans, gears and tire size? Any tires bigger that 22.5 low pros and you better have 4.42 or 4.64 rear gears. When you have the AI engine, the rest of the truck has to be set up just right or you will have low power complaints.

Got most of the chrome put on today, Going to do a tire/wheel swap, getting 22.5 low pros with super singles on the back. On the specs, I will have to get the exact model numbers but I know its a 505HP but I dont know what version ( C, E or M). The trans is a Mack 10 speed ( again dont know model). Rears are Rockwells with aluminum carriers and ultra light air ride. The ratio is around 3.53. I will find out more tommorrow and hopefully have some more pics.

You haven't run off the road playing with that new stereo remote yet have you?

You ever get to the mountains to try out that new engine datafile/program?

My friends 2012 CHU 505HP finally arrived today, about 4 months late but finally got here today. Got about 4 grand in stainless and chrome to install. Wish I had a better pic that this cell phone pic.

Being this is a pre Etech engineI would replace the ingniton solinoid in the fuse box. Its the large solinoid that has the big red wires going to it. Lots of current goes through this solinoid so it gets hot (which is normal) and they seem to go bad quite often. Use a Mack solinoid and not a Napa Ford starter solinoid as thoses dont last but a week at best.

4.64 gears or low profile 24.5 tires might help get the RPM/torque curve back on track but I have seen many CV's with this spec and be OK. I would take it to the dealer and have them install the latest Datafiles and software in both ECM's ( step 12B software) and calibrate the throttle pedal, this in some cases can make a big difference. These engine usually do a good job as they have the same torque output rateing as the AI427. EPA made Mack drop the AMI370 only after a couple of years due to being way to dirty. A manual boost pressure guage plumbed into the intake manifold is the best way to tell if the engine is getting full boost ( around 30 psi but I dont have my book close by)

If your truck is a 1999, you can bump it to 400 HP with just a download. But on paper your 355/380 puts out 1560 ft pounds of torque. If you bumped to 400 HP your torque would drop to 1460. You might want to stay where your at. Your engine now had the same tourque output as a 427. But to get bumped to a 427 or 460 HP it will involve turbo, injectors and remove camshaft and install an offset keyway in the cam gear to prevent overheating.

We have sold alot of 2011-12's and no problems with the SCR/DPF or engine(except of loose battery/starter cables on every one?) . MPG is great as well as power. Mack and Volvo are beating everybody on MPG when spec'ed correctly and road speed is kept to a reasonable level. The MP engines are much more foregiving when the tire size/rear gear ratio and transmission dont quite match up. Any good salesman can tell you what gears you need to match your tire size and desired cruising speed. When our salesman is ordering a new truck, if he enters a gear ratio or tire size that dont quite go together, it throws up all kinds of red flags and warns the salesman. I've seen him do it!

Please just say NO. Mack had so many complaints they came out with a kit to change it back to the orignal cable style.

Iwill advise the county to scrap their water truck. When the poor peoples houses burn from lake of water we can just blame it on Bush

So many poor county governments down here. One local town here just retired their gas burning Mack fire truck about 6 years ago, I did the last tuneup on it before it was gone. One local county road dept was so happy to get a new to them 1999 CH converted dump truck. Before that their newest Mack dump had a 2 valve head engine in it. This is a county of 5123 people where 24% on them live below the poverty line and 30% are over 65 and on SS. Poor is poor and these small counties are happy to get what they can. However the state road departments in the same counties have new 2011 Mack GU's.

Our local fire dept got a USAF jet fuel tanker and converted it into a water tanker. Its a DM4929 last of vin is 002612 and has a 3208 cat with the muffler mounted under the front bumper. Will try to post some pics when we get done with repairs.

I was setting on the back of the boat, deep in a 18 pack of Bud-lite when you texted me thoses pics of the oil trail behind your truck as far as the eye could see. My first thought was what blew apart and where were you at. Glad your engine was not ruined! I cant wait to get to work on your truck as 4 weeks solid of failing MP engines and this heat ( 104 in the shop the other day) has drove me to drink!

I assume its not one of the coolant hoses. If it is the outlet hose of the EGR cooler (toward the front of engine) I would have to think its an overboost turbo problem. But I have pressure tested the whole intake system (including the EGR cooler and piping) as high as 45 psi and never blew one of those hoses. The hose should be a special stepped hose (bigger on the EGR cooler end and smaller on the Mass flow tube end ("S" shaped pipe)). A new hose with new clamps to start with and a test drive to see what the turbo Boost pressure is hitting. Also check if all 4 bolts/nuts are there to secure the EGR cooler to the block. Had one today with only 3 bolts holding it on and the vibration cracked the EGR cooler causing an external coolant leak.

Just waiting on u Bigen! LOL

From what I have seen I would use factory parts for anything on the engine. We had our local turbo/injector shop (which are great guys) start rebuilding our turbos, which was cheaper than the Mack reman but when they went down in California the warranty didn't mean sh*t to the Mack dealership out there. We use only Mack parts on the engines just for warranty cause any Mack dealership should honor as long as you have the reciept. But I'm sure their are some good aftermarket parts out there.

I do have a "hot " program for a 427 AI enine that I put in my buddies CV, runs awesome, smokes the 460's but only in spring and fall. In the heat of summer (90+ degree days) the fan stays engaged to much on the slightest hills. He's bringing it back this week to put the old program back in it.

The best average MPG that we have seen with the AI engine in the CV/CT's is 5.2 and the guys were happy to see that.

Cat, cummins and other engines usually have alot more cubic inches/liters (and weight) than Mack's Etech engines so it could be easier for them to build HP at a higher rpm's. As far as turning up the RPM's or adjusting the power curve, it's impossible from what I'v seen. Unless you know a program writer that cam make a complete new engine data file. We use the older Mack service software on the ETECHs and ASETs. We also have VCADS but have found the older Mack service software is much faster and easier to use. Not much difference in what parameters can be changed using VCADS or the Mack service software on the ETECH's. Alot of fleets turn the rpms down to 1900 because anything above that your just wasting fuel.

This service bulletin shows the location for the Y hose and screen. This bulletin is for the AC engine but the AI has the same Y hose and screen. sb214056.pdf

We have tried to get the rpm up over 1950 while the truck is moving but was never able to. On most ETECH engines the HP curve starts to drop very fast after 1850 rpm. We tried changing tire size and transmission top gear ratio to try to fool the ECM into thinking we were in a lower gear. The ETECH engine will usually go to 2100 in every gear but the last one where 1900-1950 rpm is the max. The only ETECH I have seen that would almost hit 2000 in the last gear was a 1999 CL with a 460XT program in it. If you do get it to that rpm i dont think there will be any HP or torque there to do anything with.